spdracr83

iTrader: (6)

im getting Mtuned and full mod list is as follows:

here are the specs:

Head:

Hyundai Sonata head
3 angle valve job
GSC valves
GSC zero tick lifters
GSC Beehive springs
GSC valve seats
GSC valve keepers
HKS 280/280
AEM Tru time cam gears
EGR port plugged

Engine

Wiseco 87mm 9.5:1 pistons
Cometic head gasket
Eagle H-beam rods
ACL race rod bearing
King main bearings
A1 Technologies L19 head studs
ARP main studs
BS delete
Gates Racing timing belt

Machine work:

block was bored and honed with plate
line bored
decked
balanced rotating assembly
crank was polished and chamfered

FIC 10050cc
AEM fuel rail
stock FPR
Aeromotive 340lph
running a T3 dsm manifold modified to fit the 4g64 with the starter on the front
holset hy35 externally gated
Tial MVR wastegate
Tial Q BOV
Custom 2.5" IC Piping
ETS standard 3" Intercooler
ETS short route UICP
Stock Evo IM and TB
Speed Density
Moshimoto Evo5 radiator with a modified evo8 radiator fan
Quaife LSD in a 3G manual transmission
B&M oil cooler




last year i was running a stock short block and it ran fine, i just rebuilt the block and head and didnt change the fuel system in anyway.

car idles fine. then when trying to drive it down the street, as soon as i hit 2-3k rpm it goes full lean. sputters and wants to fall on its face and shakes and sounds lie compressor surging. he tried to add more fuel and it didnt make much of a difference at all.

timing is good, no CEL, no knock. pinched fuel return line and fuel pressure gauge spiked so we have a working pump.

next to check is timing again, pull spark plugs to make sure they all look the same. then do a leak down test.


any thoughts ?

Thanks in advance

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

How much fuel did he add? What ECU are you running? Are you running speed density or MAF?

spdracr83

iTrader: (6)

im running evo8 ecu with Tephra V7 rom. i dont know how much fuel he added but he did say it needed 40% more fuel around there and he added it to compensate for it and it made it super rich at idle but it still leans out if i try to drive it.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Missed the SD part. You should be able to add fuel in the RPM/VE table and the fuel table itself without effecting AFR's at idle.


Have you tried putting a stock fuel rail back on?
Have you tried getting the injectors flow tested and cleaned?

spdracr83

iTrader: (6)

no i havent tried either one, the car ran on the exact fuel system with no issues back last year and it was making power then i had to rebuilt the block due to main bearings failure.

he said it doesnt sound like a stuck injector.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Well, you rebuilt the motor, and added cams. You also raised the compression ratio. You made BIG changes to VE. The tune is going to be quite a bit different than previous.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I spent an hour diagnosing a similar problem, once...turned out I was in valet mode LOL.
Good luck!

spdracr83

iTrader: (6)

cams were the same as last years setup as well. only internals changed.

no where did i say i was using an old tune. im not using a backyard tuner, im using a professional tuner who had tuned thousands of cars and he knows what he is doing. we started tuning it from scratch with a base tune. i posted her for some insight on what else i could check or things i have missed but you have done nothing but out the obvious. i appreciate your effort to help but i am looking for some other suggestions.

spdracr83

iTrader: (6)

mine is definitely not in valet mode lol, its not an activated option in my rom as of yet.

Biggiesacks

assuming the tuner knows what he is doing as you say, and that the car is unresponsive to tuning, it really only leaves a mechanical problem on the table. Your assumption that the fuel pump is fine because of a pinch test on the fuel line is kind of suspect to me. How do you have the pump wired? Is it still using the factory circuitry or have you done some kind of a hard wire w/ a hob switch?

spdracr83

iTrader: (6)

factory wiring, i did the pinch test cuz thats what he asked me to do but im about to swap it out for an aeromotive 340 and see if that changes anything or not since i need to go with a bigger pump anyway.

i was also recommended to swap out my omni 4bar and see if that changes anything. i will try that too.

tuner asked me to check timing and do a leak down test, so that is also next on the list

Biggiesacks

so you have a stock pump in there right now, or a 340 that you are going to swap with another? The factory wiring is pretty maxed out even with a Walbro 255 so you should definitely augment it with a hard wire addition with a hob switch. While this might not be your problem exactly its recommended for sure. As far as troubleshooting, i would verify that the "high" voltage transition on the factory circuit is happening and working properly. At a certain load the ecu is suppose to trigger the high voltage circuit to the pump and there is no way to determine if that is happening by simply pinching a fuel line during a stationary test. I would say start by inspecting the wires to make sure they havent toasted, then verify the relays are working. I would do this by putting a voltage meter on the pump and manually triggering the associated relays from the ecu harness by supplying ground to the correct pins. If all that checks out then i would move on to the pump itself.

spdracr83

iTrader: (6)

i have a factory pump now that i plan on replacing with a 340. i do plan on hard wiring the pump as recommended by aeromotive but not at this time.

i will add testing the pump wiring to the list along with the other variables to check

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

You didn't say cams were resused.


If you started off with a base map, how does your tuner know it doesn't need more than 40% fuel added? And, why would you start off with a base map if you just freshened up the bottom end? The old map should have worked fine with some tweaking.


Your tuner "knows what he is doing" yet here you are on the internet looking for advice. Last time I checked, I don't see clients of English Racing, CBRD, Buschur, etc, posting on here looking for tips or suggestions to help their tuner figure out what's going on with the car.


Good luck with your tooner, and finding more suggestions, and throwing parts at your car.

spdracr83

iTrader: (6)

i never said i wanted tips to help my tuner. maybe i should have posted in the mechanical help section cuz u seem stuck on the fact that this is a tuning issue. im looking for pointers on what to check to fix my issue.

take care