If the car was running ok and timing seems correct, then it probably isn't anything fundamentally screwed up like one of the angle sensors. I think it would be a good idea to do a compression test on the motor and just make sure it's got healthy compression going on. Do a boost leak test to at least a couple PSI above the max you will run and fix any/all leaks. If all that looks good it might be time to do some electrical troubleshooting on the ignition circuit. Especially considering what you found with the injector wiring.

Evo 8's did have a tune related missfire problem, mitsubishi released a TSB and a new ROM to correct this issue. I am not aware of any kind of similar issue with the 9. Most people with 9's that experience missfire is during boost, and you definitely feel that miss. It could be that your missfire is tune related, but someone probably would have had to screw something up for that to be the case. If your plugs were at a .022, and you opened them up to a .025, ide replace them with some fresh plugs and gap them back down to at least a .022 since that's pretty standard for modded evo's. If you can put some miles on the new plugs and inspect them, that should also offer some clues as to what might be going on.

The way I can tell from your logs that it's not even trying to attempt to connect to the car is: with a cable not even plugged into the car, you should be getting to the "Init Sequence". Where it is trying to fire up that conversation with the car. Yours isn't even getting that far, the computer is basically closing the connection with the cable almost instantly.

From your log:

"[21:53:40.221] interface open

[21:53:40.221] FTDI Driver Version 2.12.12

[21:53:40.221] characteristics set to 0,8,1

[21:53:40.236] Using interface OpenPort 1.3 Universal TX2VEFFXa055f42dd3f3378e693ee8a8e8736be9ac5e4ba6

[21:53:40.236] interface close
"

 

I looked at my cable. I have a black main OB2 connecctor and a white connector.

The white connector has one black wire that splits into threet wires going to three pins in the white connector.

Other end is a standard USB connector.

I think their are drivers that need to be loaded for the USB to function. Been too long to remember for sure.

 

I doubt that there is a compression issue since it has maybe 45 minutes of run time since the rebuild. I do realize the head could have an issue but to my knowledge that's unlikely. i can do a boost leak test to verify a good seal. The plugs are brand new as well. I read that the cars like anywhere from 22-25 and they were 22 so I gapped them but I can close them if I need to

I can take a picture of my cable tonight and ill post it... but I just bought it from evoscan so I'm sure its what it needs to be.

 

It's actually because of the recent work and what ever issue necessitated it that I think a compression test, and probably a leak down test too, would be advisable. With a modded evo, you're gonna want to have that data for the future anyway. You can compare it over time and track the long term health of the motor. Trust but verify.

I'm not sure how many in and out cycles those crush washers on the spark plugs are good for, you might be fine to just keep rolling them.

 

Ahhh thank you sir. I understand what you mean that's a really good idea. It will be nice to have all that information for my records like you said. Any good links to a boost leak test??? I spoke with Tactrix and they are directing me to get ahold of Evoscan since they are the ones who sold me everything in the first place.. here's our conversation:

chris, Feb 2, 2022, 4:35 PST:
Okay so I tested the signal coming into the OBD2 port on the back of my wiring harness as I tried to use ECUFlash and it never hit 18v. This is also assuming that I was supposed to test #16 on the OBD2 connector. I took my leads and had the positive on the back of #16 and I had the negative on a good body ground. It did spike to about 14v maybe a little higher but I guess not high enough. There are people on the EvoM are saying that sometimes you need to have a trickle charger hooked up to it so that it will have enough voltage to hit 18v. What is the next step that you recommend I do?
Michael, Feb 2, 2022, 10:30 PST:
It's the Openport that is making the 18 volts so it's not that a mediocre battery will get you a little less than 18. Either the car battery has enough to power the Openport and you will have 18 volts, or things will just not be working properly. You would need to reach out to EvoScan for their help in figuring out if the hardware is operating properly since they are the manufacturer. Just let them know that you went through some initial troubleshooting with us and there is some question that you might not be seeing a proper programming voltage signal. It's possible that your multi meter isn't responding quickly enough to the brief signal, but that is the first thing to sort out.

 

You don't test pin 16 for a voltage spike. You're testing the single wire going to the flash port.

Does evoscan connect? Have you tried a trickle charger hooked up? I doubt you have a bad cable out of the box, not that it isn't possible, but it seems were jumping around here and should be knocking things off the list of tests.

Edit: I see you're scanning for codes with evoscan. Your cable is capable of communicating. I again believe your cable is fine. This sounds like a software or driver issue, or you dont have enough voltage.

 

Well gents I have figured out why I am unable to connect with ECUFlash. I have the 1.3R cable and it is not compatible with ECUFlash so i need to get my hands on a 1.3U
I emailed Evoscan and they said: "That looks like an Openport 1.3R cable. You need to use Evoscan for reflashing that with that cable. In the menu of Evoscan there is a reflash menu. Openport 1.3U and Openport 2.0 are the only cables supported in ECUFlash."
First off what I read on Evoscan I thought I would be able to use ECUFlash with the cable that I had bought. I bought my car and then the next day I ordered the cable (apparently I should have read more)
Second does anyone know if I can actually "tune" with Evoscan? From everything that I have read I haven't seen where people tune with Evoscan.

 

Makes sense, the log looked like ecuflash didn't like the cable. You can use evoscan to flash the car and ecuflash to edit the roms.

 

Once you've made your Ecuflash edits, copy the new rom to your Documents/Evoscan v2.9/ROMS folder. Open Evoscan, select the Reflash ECU tab, choose your rom, and you're away.

 

Okay thank you very much. Lastly am I able to delete the DTC P0300 from the ECU to see if that fixes my miss problem? And if I doesn't am I able to re-flash the code back into the ECU?

 

Yes, no different than flashing any other tune file. Just change the p0300 back to a 1 to reactivate and reflash.

 

Well.... unscrewing the warning bulb doesn't really "fix" the problem. I've been there though, in the end I did end up re-enabling and actually fix the issues. Having a working missfire detection and warning system does have its advantages.

 

I agree... I'm not planning on "turning up the stereo to fix the problem" I am just trying to eliminate possibilities. If it were the case that it fixed the problem then that would tell me a few things. But now I'm trying to get evoscan to read and I'm a newbie at this program also so here's what it sent me if any of you fellas want to keep helping with my problems ha.

flashing tool "mitsukernel" loaded.
flashing tool "mitsukernelocp" loaded.
flashing tool "mitsubootloader" loaded.
OpenPort Cable Connected.
3064 byte kernel read.
sending init sequence 1 (0001)
sending init sequence 1 (0003)
sending init sequence 1 (FFFF)
sending init sequence 1 (F0F0)
sending init sequence 1 (7777)
no response to any known code
interface close

 

That's what it looks like when it's trying to talk to your car and doesn't get a response. Make sure you have the flash connector plugged in, your battery isn't dead, and your key is turned on before trying to connect.

 

Check Check and Check. Evoscan support told me to double check the wire going from the white 12 pin connector to the ECU to make sure it is connected properly. I am going to check as soon as I get my car back from the shop. I have to admit that I threw in the towel and took my car to my Mitsu dealer here in Minneapolis. I have been working on my car in my garage which is not insulated and not heated and here in Minnesota it has been -20 so I said screw that everything in my garage is frozen solid no joke. I have exhausted everything that I can do at the moment literally without chancing frostbite and I just want the car running so to please my wife (and take a hit to my ego) I took it to the shop. I'm sure they will have it sorted out in no time. I'll post what they found and what fixed the problem. I hate having someone else working on my car but sometimes you have to put your ego in check and know when to quit.