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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 06:01 AM
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Dyno Graph/Possible Fuel Issue/Chime in If You Want/Updated 16DEC2012!

Sup guys,

Here's what I have so far. I'm trying to set a good baseline before I take it to get a retune with as little to no issues as possible. I think My wally is maxed out as per I'm not getting good fuelling 5K-7.5K regardless of fuel map. I could hack the MAF COMP table, but I want to see if it's mechanical first. Mods in the sig. Base fuel pressure is 45 PSI and I have bypassed the solenoid and checked all vacuum lines.

I got a hold of a new MSD BAP (P/N 2350) and am going to make a test run with it and see if 14.5 or so volts will help out without having to go to a double-pumper. ETA like 3 or 4 days.

Just rename the log to .TXT file to a .CSV. Thanks and I know the timing can use work lol.

EDIT: Boost is also a little creepy...[who cares]

EDIT2: November 27th 2012 - Some updates after minor tuning and the MSD BAP Install with the unit set at the lowest setting (14.5V at 5PSI and above). Using ALL STOCK wiring/fuel lines except for 10 GAUGE to the fuel pump and OE wiring to the BAP and a new ground. 500 miles thus far. Fuel control issue is fixed. I will just self tune as the fuel map is extremely responsive and stable now.

EDIT3: December 16th 2012 - Everything is running great and I have maintained awesome drivability by adjusting the fuel pump resistor crossover points. I've adjusted my maps and re-logged. I have brought all the MAF tables to stock and adjusted my fuel maps to account. Excellent results. ZERO electrical issues and no excess heat from the small amplifier. It is warm to the touch after a long drive.

Here is my ROM Setup as of 27NOV2012. Don't worry as Sean's maps are long gone lol (logs and VirtualDyno are below).


ROM as of 15DEC2012:

VirtualDyno as of 15DEC2012 (logs are below):


The MSD BAP:
Attached Thumbnails Dyno Graph/Possible Fuel Issue/Chime in If You Want!-7nov1.jpg   Dyno Graph/Possible Fuel Issue/Chime in If You Want!-27nov.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: txt
7nov1.csv.txt (13.9 KB, 0 views)
File Type: txt
27nov3.csv.txt (15.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: txt
15DEC1.csv.txt (16.2 KB, 0 views)

Last edited by evoredy; Dec 16, 2012 at 06:31 PM.
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 06:49 AM
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What fuel? Looks like the wally is done... is the relief valve punched?
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 09:39 AM
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E85 and no. Stock fuel pump wiring also.
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 09:47 AM
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http://www.driven2modify.com/showthr...odify-a-walbro


try that, if the fuel pump is already on its way out. this doesnt hurt.
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 09:50 AM
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Sorry to jump into this thread with no anwser. I remember when I had a mustang we would use a kenny belle boost a pump to give our walboro 255's an extra kick in the pants. Why have I never heard this for our cars? Quick fix in these situations
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 10:14 AM
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Well dude, we'll find out in a few days. I'll post some logs and graphs if it actually does something. On a side note, I guess the MSD version is more unreliable than the KB though lol - but I'm pretty familiar with voltage regulators as I have one for my car computer that provides consistent voltage even during startup. The pump flow rates are night and day at the upper PSI with just 1.5 volts difference according to Wallbro's chart.
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 10:18 AM
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Something is up with that pump. I was able to make more power on e85 with a single modded wally 255, stock wiring, on 1250cc's.
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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His is not modded...
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by boosted91t
Something is up with that pump. I was able to make more power on e85 with a single modded wally 255, stock wiring, on 1250cc's.
Not looking for peak numbers right now, just a good baseline so the guy behind the curtains that operates the rollers doesn't have to spend all day. My car has 102k on it also lol.

But yeah, I'll fish the pump out and inspect the relief valve area. I will still do a comparison pull with the BAP before any physical mods to the pump. Thanks for chming in.
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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What are your boost control settings? I would say if you take care of that boost creep and taper off on top that would make it a little safer while you're figuring out your fueling issue.
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by fastyouth1313
http://www.driven2modify.com/showthr...odify-a-walbro


try that, if the fuel pump is already on its way out. this doesnt hurt.
Thanks for the tip.
Old Nov 8, 2012 | 08:02 AM
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Sorry if it came out wrong. I wasn't trying to say mine was better then yours, I was just saying that there is a bottleneck in the pump area. Especially with the inj that you have I'm not sure if I remember seeing anywhere to mod the 400 when I had mine??


Originally Posted by evoredy
Not looking for peak numbers right now, just a good baseline so the guy behind the curtains that operates the rollers doesn't have to spend all day. My car has 102k on it also lol.

But yeah, I'll fish the pump out and inspect the relief valve area. I will still do a comparison pull with the BAP before any physical mods to the pump. Thanks for chming in.
Old Nov 8, 2012 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by boosted91t
Sorry if it came out wrong. I wasn't trying to say mine was better then yours, I was just saying that there is a bottleneck in the pump area. Especially with the inj that you have I'm not sure if I remember seeing anywhere to mod the 400 when I had mine??
My car has never made good "peak numbers" throughout it's life. No big deal man and I didn't take it that way.

Now I'm itching to pull the pump out and press in the relief valve at the output side (I just looked at the non E85 version and that's where it's at/hopefully the -267 is similar) and do a couple of pulls. As far as the boost issue earlier, it's so subtle and I have plenty of resolution to accomidate it for now. That will be the next task. I'm staying under 30 regardless.

I did notice that my fuel pressure gauge pegged at 80 (i think 80/maybe 70?--I was looking at the road) during the pull as if a pop-off type valve was opening. From another thread, I think the relief valve opens at 97 PSI on the -267 model, so I'm thinking I'm just seeing a LOT of pressure drop at the rail which is expected with stock fuel lines. If I press the relief in, there's no going back and I will never know if running the pump at max output pressure/vs higher pump motor RPM at a higher voltage will cure my fuelling issue. Decisions decisions...
Old Nov 8, 2012 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Freddie@Spec-Ops
What fuel? Looks like the wally is done... is the relief valve punched?
There's no relief valve on the 267 to punch.

Originally Posted by evoredy
...

Now I'm itching to pull the pump out and press in the relief valve at the output side (I just looked at the non E85 version and that's where it's at/hopefully the -267 is similar) and do a couple of pulls. As far as the boost issue earlier, it's so subtle and I have plenty of resolution to accomidate it for now. That will be the next task. I'm staying under 30 regardless.

I did notice that my fuel pressure gauge pegged at 80 (i think 80/maybe 70?--I was looking at the road) during the pull as if a pop-off type valve was opening. From another thread, I think the relief valve opens at 97 PSI on the -267 model, so I'm thinking I'm just seeing a LOT of pressure drop at the rail which is expected with stock fuel lines. If I press the relief in, there's no going back and I will never know if running the pump at max output pressure/vs higher pump motor RPM at a higher voltage will cure my fuelling issue. Decisions decisions...
The reality is that anyone running 500 whp or more on E85 should be upgrading either the fuel supply line to the rail or power to the pump, if not both. People running double pumpers seem to get away not upgrading the fuel supply line for up to about 600 whp, but above that, it seems to be a necessity.

With the 267, the situation is more challenging. A rewire alone might be sufficient, but I couldn't say with the testing I've done. What I can say is that a traditional full-power-only rewire will result in massive fuel flow at idle and cruise that will totally overrun the stock fuel return line and stock fpr, so its either a custom rewire that retains the dual voltage pump power circuit, or its a full-voltage-only rewire in combination with a custom return line. The dual voltage is the better option for pump life.
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 04:44 AM
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Damn though he was on a 255...


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