I need a quick pointer for a good tephra v7 tutorial to modify the code so it properly fits my '05 RS prior to writing to my ECU. I've been searching and reading for a while now and haven't found anything. Does anyone know of a good tutorial or URL where there is one to better understand it?

I also am having difficulty finding a key for the coding and hex to interpret the CSV file in a spreadsheet. I also haven't been able to get it to load to EvoScan, putting me in a bit of a situation.

Any help would be much appreciated and as I learn I will gladly post my findings here. Thank you for your time.

I have begun a constant datalog today and.will post any important findings here, if I can interpret the hex that is. Otherwise I'll just dump my datalog for someone to look at to see if that helps.

So far the datalogging requires that a text file is created on the SD titled "logcfg" the file extention should be a ".txt" and if you make it in wordpad or some other basic text editor you shouldn't need to add ".txt" as when you save it, that should be its default file extention. You'll need to create a log config code for it to function as a datalog for the OP2 device. You can edit your own code, search the EcuFlash forums etc. to find one and learn how to edit it or use and modify mine to suit your needs. This is a default one that I found searching the EcuFlash forums on http://forums.openecu.org/

 

So Apparently I just needed to log data for a longer period of time and ensure I didn't have the beta EcuFlash installed but instead the current non-beta version.

I'll continue to post what things I can find here and how I can eventually apply them to utilizing Tephra properly.

 

This thread here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ur-answer.html

Is one of the best resources for V7. Still confused about what you are trying to do? You talk about the CSV (the log) but then talk about hex as well? CSV files aren't encoded.

 

I can't figure out how to read the wrong code in spreadsheet
I'd like to be able to figure out how to interpret the code in that form. I figured out how to load the code into EvoScan and read there from the graphs.

I'll definitely look at that thread though.

 

So far so good. I got it working with the roms and xls files. Now I'm copying over my maps and smoothing the areas of fine definition that aren't included on my small maps. I'm done with everything so far except the timing maps for driving so I'll keep it posted with my progress and any bumps in the road and the fixes that do and dont work.

 

Here is the text for my logcfg.txt file for OP2 standalone datalogging feature using an SD card in the Tactrix SD port.

; sample logging configuration file for openport 2.0
; must be named logcfg.txt and be placed in the root directory of the
; microSD card inserted in the openport in order to work

; this sample logs using the MUT-II protocol over the K-line, which works
; for many mitsubishis, including the EVO 8 and 9

;----------------mut2----------------
type=mut2

; you can also set an OBD pin to a voltage, ground, or a high impedance state
; the first number is the OBD pin number, the second number is the pin voltage with the following values:
;
; 8000-18000 : voltage in millivolts for OP2 Rev C and earlier
; 5000-25000 : voltage in millivolts for OP2 Rev D and later
; -1 : set pin to high impedance (default state)
; -2 : pull pin to ground
;
; keep in mind that if you are applying a non-zero voltage to more than one pin, all of those voltages
; must be the same

; the following setpinvoltage sets OBD pin 1 to ground, which is needed to enable logging on older Mitsubishis
; it is commented out as it is not needed for newer models (e.g. EVO 8/9)
;
; setpinvoltage=1,-2


paramname=TimingAdv
paramid=0x06
scalingrpn=x,20,-

paramname=CoolantTemp
paramid=0x07
priority=2

paramname=FuelTrim_Low
paramid=0x0C
scalingrpn=x,0.19607843,*,25,-
priority=2

paramname=FuelTrim_Middle
paramid=0x0D
scalingrpn=x,0.19607843,*,25,-
priority=2

paramname=FuelTrim_High
paramid=0x0E
scalingrpn=x,0.19607843,*,25,-
priority=2

paramname=O2FeedbackTrim
paramid=0x0E
scalingrpn=x,0.19607843,*,25,-
priority=2

paramname=EGRTemp
paramid=0x12
scalingrpn=x,-2.7,*,597.7,+
priority=2

paramname=O2Sensor
paramid=0x13
scalingrpn=x,0.0195,*

paramname=Battery
paramid=0x14
scalingrpn=x,0.0733,*
priority=2

paramname=Baro
paramid=0x15
scalingrpn=x,0.5,*
priority=2

paramname=ISCSteps
paramid=0x16

paramname=TPS
paramid=0x17
scalingrpn=x,0.39215686,*

paramname=Airflow
paramid=0x1A
scalingrpn=x,6.29,*

paramname=ECULoad
paramid=0x1C
scalingrpn=x,0.625,*

paramname=AccelEnrich
paramid=0x1D
scalingrpn=x,0.39215686,*

paramname=O2SensorRear
paramid=0x1F
scalingrpn=x,0.0195,*

paramname=RPM
paramid=0x21
scalingrpn=x,31.25,*

paramname=TargetIdle
paramid=0x24
scalingrpn=x,7.8,*
priority=2

paramname=KnockSum
paramid=0x26
priority=2

paramname=OCTNumber
paramid=0x27
priority=2

paramname=InjPulseWidth
paramid=0x29
scalingrpn=x,0.256,*

paramname=AirVol
paramid=0x2C

paramname=Speed
paramid=0x2F
scalingrpn=x,1.242742384,*

paramname=Knock
paramid=0x30

paramname=AFRMAP
paramid=0x32

paramname=MDP
paramid=0x38
scalingrpn=x,1.25,*

paramname=AirTemp
paramid=0x3A
priority=2

paramname=KnockADC
paramid=0x6A
priority=2

paramname=KnockBase
paramid=0x6B
priority=2

paramname=KnockVar
paramid=0x6C
priority=2

paramname=KnockChange
paramid=0x6D
priority=2

paramname=KnockDynamics
paramid=0x6E
priority=2

paramname=KnockFlag
paramid=0x6F
priority=2

paramname=WGDC
paramid=0x86
scalingrpn=x,0.39215686,*

 

Here is the example logcfg.txt file I'm using. I'll eventually log different parameters and more of them after some time.
Also here is an example of some of the things you'll need to do converting to Tephra v7
This is the scaling parameters and the right is my current tune's scalings, the left is the Tephra v7 default scaling with several that I have added. You will need to add some parameters and modify current parameters to match your previous ones so that everything is scaled correctly. Also ensure your maps match that new scaling because some of the v7 maps and parameters use different scaling. Otherwise convert your parameters and maps to be scaled to match v7's scaling and ensure the values are converted to function properly once you have pushed the data over to the Tephra v7 rom.

 

Looks pretty good, nice work! I'm thinking about giving this another shot instead of EvoScan.

 

The only downside is i lost 14 hours of work cause the install went corrupt on me and made my rom go bad otherwise id be on tephra right now.

 

So I got the Tephra rom converted and set up to run from my tune rom and it barely idled... doesn't help that I've got 272s but seriously...
The only mods to the car are the things listed in my signature... nothing else.
I use 93 octane fuel.
The other thing is the WBO2 read super lean on the gauge but smelled super rich, and when I hit the gas a little, it would quickly drop to 10AFR, level out around 13.5 with my foot back off,then within 30 seconds return to a rough idle and 16+AFR.
I'm not sure what I need to do, any assistance would be appreciated. I'm going to attach a copy of my tuned rom and of my converted tune rom. Other weird thing is, after loading it to my ECU, whenever I try to open the tephra rom, it pulls all associations from evo7base20081101 instead of TephraMOD-96530706-v7 and TephraMOD-96532706-v7 since the tephra rom I modified was 96532706-TephraMod-l2r99gst-dma
The only map that seemed towork fine was the Launch Map.
Its time for a beer.
If anyone is able to help out I'd appreciate it. I'm sure the ISCV settings are off and the Ignition coil charge times.
Also its changed the rom ID somehow on its own to 9694011... my factory rom ID...

So much for uploading a copy.. They all show a little lock shape in the top left of the icon and I cant get them to just load at the least. I don't see a setting allowing me to make them visible outside of EcuFlash either...

 

Results of my tune conversion attempt.
Thats the only map I got to funtion properly. It idled much more rough than before and I ended up switching back to the dyno'd rom I saved from my ECU.
There are a lot of issues I can't quite figure out. Most are in certain parameters and the MUT table differences between 96940011 (my stock rom and dyno rom) and 96532706-TephraMod-l2r99gst-dma as well as a lot of the ISCV specifications and more. I got the maps down right but there is definitely a group of areas I need to fix before putting it back on my car again.

 

Someone directed me to a good thread on ISCV crap, I'll edit this to include the link when I get back on, but I wanted to throw out a few random tips for clutch changes just in case someone is reading and happens to need them.

1) Get a ****ing transmission jack you asshat... don't be like me and my buddy mike who decided bench-pressing the big ***** was a good idea, because it ****ing sucked... horribly...

2) Get the rear motor mount in before you put the driver side mount back on... at least start all the threads and finish them for the rear mount before you put the TC back in... cause otherwise it will take forever using a ratcheting box-end wrench because a normal socket wrench doesnt fit in there with everything put in the easiest way for it to go in.

3) Remember to release the throwout bearing before removing the transmission or you'll have fun trying to get it out after the trans is off, give up, put it back in, release it properly, then drop the trans, ON YOUR TRANSMISSION JACK SINCE YOU FOLLOWED TIP #1, and finish the clutch job. I didn't have that issue but it seems to be a prevalent one.

4) Drain your trans and TC before pulling them out. To prime the ACD if you have one, once its back in and everything is plugged in, turn the ignition to the ON position without starting it and press the gas pedal to the floor, it primes the darn thing... and to stop that, turn off your ignition. Also this seemed to help flush some of the TC fluid through to allow the rest of the 600ml to be added in increments... it takes EXACTLY 600ml!!!!!!

5) Best bet for the clutch job... get on a lift that lifts it from the unibody frame under the cabin of the car... two long thick rail like objects that run from front to rear each on one side of the car... then remove the entire subframe on the front of the car that goes under the TC... it'll make life easier.

6) IF YOU THINK ITS TOO DIFFICULT, EITHER GROW A PAIR AND FINISH THE JOB, OR TAKE IT TO A SHOP BEFORE YOU START DISASSEMBLING ANYTHING... THEY'LL STILL HAVE TO CHARGE YOU FOR A FULL CLUTCH JOB EVEN IF YOU ONLY NEED THEM TO PUT IT BACK IN!!!!!

7) If you don't want to do it on a garage floor with floor jacks and jack stands and some idiotic ***** putting that much force on a cheater bar on a bolt that makes you think it'll fall off the jack stands... TAKE IT TO A DAMN SHOP!!! I didn't have the money and that's the ONLY reason I did it myself with the help of Mike and Kelb... thank god for them... but, as long as I can afford it, $400-$600 is well worth having a shop do it!!! We were sore for three days afterwards... and it took about 6.5 hours... using the shortcuts and combined mechanical experience we have and tips from local shops and dealership mechanics...