Infamous P0011 SES Light
#1
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From: Upstate, SC
Infamous P0011 SES Light
I have posted in a few threads regarding this code, but decided to make my own specifying excatly what steps were done in these specific situation. This will be a LONG post.
Code will only set when driving light throttle, on a slight inclide, in 4th or 5th gear, running between .5-3 psi. If driven quickly thru the boost pressure (meaning more than a light throttle to build boost quickly) it will not set the code for many days. Only when driving it lightly will it set.
Have been working on a friend's 2006 SE Evo 9. Has HKS 272's. The day he bought it, drive home, the P0011 set. He contacted me and I provided him with some diagnostics information. (He is a Ford Mechanic) From his findings everything tests out mechanically correct. I refered him to a reputable tuner that I have used and trust. He looked the tune over and found the Mivec tables to have some cells that had 30+ in them. He corrected that, the cells in the table do not exceed 28.2, and the MAX allowed is set to 28.8. Car was good for about 2 days.
He then brought the car to me to work on. We replaced the Mivec gear, believing that would be the final culpret causing the issue. In doing so, I replaced the timing belt. I set the timing up spot on the marks, rechecked, rechecked, and rechecked. Perfect timing. Light stayed off for about 1 day then returned.
So I had him bring the car back the other night and I went through the flow chart.
So with that performed, the only thing I have NOT done is to replace the ECU. I have been working for Mitsubishi for 8+ years and have never seen an ECU fail that was not directly caused by outside variables. I do not believe that this car has a bad ECU. (I will say I am human and can be wrong, but I whole heartedly believe that this is not an ECU issue.)
I had seen that some people say that the reluctor ring/wheel for the cam sensor can be 180 degrees out (flipped upside down) When I inspected and tested the solenoid, I also set the car on TDC and removed the cover for the reluctor and the painted mark was in the north/12 o'clock position which means it is NOT flipped.
I am near wits end on this. Any other suggestions? Any other diagnosics recomendations?
I attached a copy of the current tune in the ECU.
P0011- Variable Valve Timing System.
Technical description
* The ECM checks the VVT system for malfuntion.
Description of monitor methods
* The phase angle of the intake camshaft is Higher than the specified value.
Monitor execution
* Contnuous
Check Conditions:
*20 seconds have pass since the starting sequence was completed.
*Engine speed is 1,200 or more.
*Engine coolant tep is higher than 76C (169F)
Judgement Criterion
* The phase angle of the intake camshaft is 5 degrees or more for 5 seconds.
OBD-II drive cycle pattern
* Refer to Diagnostic function- OBDII drive cycle- Pattern 21
Trouble shooting Hints (most likely coauses for code to set)
* Oil feeder control valve failed.
* Oil passage of VVT control system clogged.
* VVT sprocket operation mechanism stuck.
* ECM failed.
Technical description
* The ECM checks the VVT system for malfuntion.
Description of monitor methods
* The phase angle of the intake camshaft is Higher than the specified value.
Monitor execution
* Contnuous
Check Conditions:
*20 seconds have pass since the starting sequence was completed.
*Engine speed is 1,200 or more.
*Engine coolant tep is higher than 76C (169F)
Judgement Criterion
* The phase angle of the intake camshaft is 5 degrees or more for 5 seconds.
OBD-II drive cycle pattern
* Refer to Diagnostic function- OBDII drive cycle- Pattern 21
Trouble shooting Hints (most likely coauses for code to set)
* Oil feeder control valve failed.
* Oil passage of VVT control system clogged.
* VVT sprocket operation mechanism stuck.
* ECM failed.
Code will only set when driving light throttle, on a slight inclide, in 4th or 5th gear, running between .5-3 psi. If driven quickly thru the boost pressure (meaning more than a light throttle to build boost quickly) it will not set the code for many days. Only when driving it lightly will it set.
Have been working on a friend's 2006 SE Evo 9. Has HKS 272's. The day he bought it, drive home, the P0011 set. He contacted me and I provided him with some diagnostics information. (He is a Ford Mechanic) From his findings everything tests out mechanically correct. I refered him to a reputable tuner that I have used and trust. He looked the tune over and found the Mivec tables to have some cells that had 30+ in them. He corrected that, the cells in the table do not exceed 28.2, and the MAX allowed is set to 28.8. Car was good for about 2 days.
He then brought the car to me to work on. We replaced the Mivec gear, believing that would be the final culpret causing the issue. In doing so, I replaced the timing belt. I set the timing up spot on the marks, rechecked, rechecked, and rechecked. Perfect timing. Light stayed off for about 1 day then returned.
So I had him bring the car back the other night and I went through the flow chart.
DIAGNOSIS - P0011
1) Is the diagnostic trouble code other than P0011 set? no just P0011
2) Check oil feeder control valve itself.
*Steps to check oil feeder operation sound
A) Disconnect oil feeder control valve connector.
B) Check that the operation sound of the the oil feeder control valve can be heard when POS battery voltage is supplied to control valve. (Use jumper wires to connect TERM 2 of control valve connector to POS battery voltage and TERM 1 to NEG (ground). To prevent coil from burning, keep the duration of the voltage application as short as possible.
C) If the operation sound cannot be heard, replaced the oil feeder control valve.
We can hear the valve actuation. I also removed the valve and visually saw the solenoid operation.
* Checking the coil resistance of oil feeder valve
A) Disconnect the oil feeder control valve connector.
B) Measure resistance between TERM 1 & 2 of the connector at the oil feeder control valve side. Standard value: 6.9 - 7.9 phms [at 20C (68F)]
C) If resistance is not within the standard vaue, replace the oil feeder control valve.
The tested resistance of his feeder valve is 7.3 ohms, within the specs.
3) Check oil passage of VVT control ststem for being clogged.
I varified we are recieving oil thru the system. Oil to the valve and to the Mivec gear. I do not know what the pressure to it is (assuming it is what the engine PSI is) The diagnosics information does not give a standard value. I did clean the feeder valve, the filter, the line, and the ports in the head with brake clean.
4) Check VVT timing sprocket operation mechanism for being stuck.
Well, it is a new MMNA sprocket. It works and appears to be functioning.
5) Check trouble symptoms.
A) Carry out a test drive with the drive cycle pattern. Refer to diagnosic function- OBDII drive cycle- Pattern 21
B) Check the diagnostic trouble code (DTC)
Q:Is DTC P0011 set? Yes it is.
Yes:Replace the ECM. Then go to step 6.
No: It can be assume that this malfunction is intermittent. Refer to GROUP 00 How to use troule shooting/inspection service points- How to cope with intermittent Malfunctions.
6) Test the OBDII drive cycle.
A) Carry out a test drive with the drive cycle pattern. Refer to diagnostic function- OBDII drive cycle- Pattern 21
B) Check the diagnostic troule code.
Q: Is DTC P0011 set?
Yes: Retry the trouble shooting.
No: the inspection ic complete.
1) Is the diagnostic trouble code other than P0011 set? no just P0011
2) Check oil feeder control valve itself.
*Steps to check oil feeder operation sound
A) Disconnect oil feeder control valve connector.
B) Check that the operation sound of the the oil feeder control valve can be heard when POS battery voltage is supplied to control valve. (Use jumper wires to connect TERM 2 of control valve connector to POS battery voltage and TERM 1 to NEG (ground). To prevent coil from burning, keep the duration of the voltage application as short as possible.
C) If the operation sound cannot be heard, replaced the oil feeder control valve.
We can hear the valve actuation. I also removed the valve and visually saw the solenoid operation.
* Checking the coil resistance of oil feeder valve
A) Disconnect the oil feeder control valve connector.
B) Measure resistance between TERM 1 & 2 of the connector at the oil feeder control valve side. Standard value: 6.9 - 7.9 phms [at 20C (68F)]
C) If resistance is not within the standard vaue, replace the oil feeder control valve.
The tested resistance of his feeder valve is 7.3 ohms, within the specs.
3) Check oil passage of VVT control ststem for being clogged.
I varified we are recieving oil thru the system. Oil to the valve and to the Mivec gear. I do not know what the pressure to it is (assuming it is what the engine PSI is) The diagnosics information does not give a standard value. I did clean the feeder valve, the filter, the line, and the ports in the head with brake clean.
4) Check VVT timing sprocket operation mechanism for being stuck.
Well, it is a new MMNA sprocket. It works and appears to be functioning.
5) Check trouble symptoms.
A) Carry out a test drive with the drive cycle pattern. Refer to diagnosic function- OBDII drive cycle- Pattern 21
B) Check the diagnostic trouble code (DTC)
Q:Is DTC P0011 set? Yes it is.
Yes:Replace the ECM. Then go to step 6.
No: It can be assume that this malfunction is intermittent. Refer to GROUP 00 How to use troule shooting/inspection service points- How to cope with intermittent Malfunctions.
6) Test the OBDII drive cycle.
A) Carry out a test drive with the drive cycle pattern. Refer to diagnostic function- OBDII drive cycle- Pattern 21
B) Check the diagnostic troule code.
Q: Is DTC P0011 set?
Yes: Retry the trouble shooting.
No: the inspection ic complete.
So with that performed, the only thing I have NOT done is to replace the ECU. I have been working for Mitsubishi for 8+ years and have never seen an ECU fail that was not directly caused by outside variables. I do not believe that this car has a bad ECU. (I will say I am human and can be wrong, but I whole heartedly believe that this is not an ECU issue.)
I had seen that some people say that the reluctor ring/wheel for the cam sensor can be 180 degrees out (flipped upside down) When I inspected and tested the solenoid, I also set the car on TDC and removed the cover for the reluctor and the painted mark was in the north/12 o'clock position which means it is NOT flipped.
I am near wits end on this. Any other suggestions? Any other diagnosics recomendations?
I attached a copy of the current tune in the ECU.
#5
Log MIVEC to make sure that its moving the sensor. IF not replace the intake cam sensor with a new one (it is not the same as the exhaust cam). If it is moving and you still have the light make sure that your bounding limits match the actual motion of the cam gear, i.e. if its stock/not modified the range will be -1.2 to 28.8. Check for oil leaks in the gear assembly, feed solenoid, and feed line.
If all of that checks out and it still is there, I would disable the sensor check in the tune.
If all of that checks out and it still is there, I would disable the sensor check in the tune.
#7
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From: Upstate, SC
Ok, small update to keep this thread fresh.
The new intake cam sensor is here and the guy will be here tomorrow to get it. I had him go for a drive with the code cleared and see if he could log when the fault happens. He did a few and sent me the 1 log where the light came on during the logging. I have attached it here for review.
He also texted me some of the freeze frame data from a small scanner of when the code set.
Load: 38.8
Coolant: 84
Map: 90
RPM: 2184
Speed: 76
Spark adv: 26
IAT: 14
MAF: 25.08
TPS: 17.6
He will be replacing the sensor this weekend and clearing the code. I'm going to have him log again afterwards.
The new intake cam sensor is here and the guy will be here tomorrow to get it. I had him go for a drive with the code cleared and see if he could log when the fault happens. He did a few and sent me the 1 log where the light came on during the logging. I have attached it here for review.
He also texted me some of the freeze frame data from a small scanner of when the code set.
Load: 38.8
Coolant: 84
Map: 90
RPM: 2184
Speed: 76
Spark adv: 26
IAT: 14
MAF: 25.08
TPS: 17.6
He will be replacing the sensor this weekend and clearing the code. I'm going to have him log again afterwards.
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#8
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From: Upstate, SC
New cam sensor is in and no change. P0011 came right back on.
How do you remove the code from the ecu? It seems that that maybe the only option at this point, unless anyone has additional recommendations.
How do you remove the code from the ecu? It seems that that maybe the only option at this point, unless anyone has additional recommendations.
#12
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From: Upstate, SC
Ok, so a quick update.
So far nothing has worked to remove the light. However, may have heard some good news tho. One of my techs was at training last week and spoke to an engineer while down there. The engineer said that there is a relearn/reprogram procedure in the Mitsubishi Medic system that should fix this light from coming on. So later this week we will be trying that procedure. Hopefully this will take care of it.
And no, this procedure is not listed in the Mitsubishi Technical information for this code. So at this point it is a person's best guess as to weither this will fix it or not.
So far nothing has worked to remove the light. However, may have heard some good news tho. One of my techs was at training last week and spoke to an engineer while down there. The engineer said that there is a relearn/reprogram procedure in the Mitsubishi Medic system that should fix this light from coming on. So later this week we will be trying that procedure. Hopefully this will take care of it.
And no, this procedure is not listed in the Mitsubishi Technical information for this code. So at this point it is a person's best guess as to weither this will fix it or not.