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My FP RED bolton IVEYTUNE

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Old Oct 2, 2009, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
very nice. I have the forge type-rs bov. same one pictured here http://media.photobucket.com/image/f...e/f89c60dc.jpg

I leak tested it to about 40psi and no leakage.
how many clicks for it to not at that boost level?
Old Oct 2, 2009, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Evoryder
how many clicks for it to not at that boost level?
Got it as tight as it can go. I can probably back it off 2-3 clicks and still be safe though.
Old Oct 2, 2009, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
Im debating right now on either throwing in studs and running it until it blows up on stock bottom end or rebuilding bottom end now before it damages the block.
After the mess I went through (and am still cleaning up) I'd definitely recommend the rods and pistons.. I see someone mentioned the stock shorty being safe to 600whp.. this may be true however the torque is going to be the trouble.. if I had to do this over again, knowing what I do now, I'd have kept it less aggressive around the 4000-5000 area... lots of guys going over 500whp on stock block... most with bigger turbos, more lag and no torque peak.. not the same thing as what your car and mine have. I've turned up alot of advice from tuners recommending not to go over 425 to 450 wtq. on the stocker...

The hole in the block is only part of the problem, the rod can come out and break all kinds of other stuff too. (tcase, for example)
Old Oct 2, 2009, 08:03 PM
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i would not recommend nor say you can run stock block above 500 whp. At that point your on borrowed time before its over. If i were you i would just put a built 2.3 shortblock in there man and call it a day. Help your spool out even more for that sweet evo you have. lol heck if you want once i pull my whole motor your welcome to buy mine and do it up i was thinking of doing it up anywho and selling it so maybe around january you can look into this. im on the fence about keeping my red or swapping to fp black but so little details about the black now so im going to go ahead and continue on my buying spree. ill save injectors and whether to keep the red or swap to black till december when ill have the motor put together.
Old Oct 2, 2009, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RockmanX
i would not recommend nor say you can run stock block above 500 whp. At that point your on borrowed time before its over. If i were you i would just put a built 2.3 shortblock in there man and call it a day. Help your spool out even more for that sweet evo you have. lol heck if you want once i pull my whole motor your welcome to buy mine and do it up i was thinking of doing it up anywho and selling it so maybe around january you can look into this. im on the fence about keeping my red or swapping to fp black but so little details about the black now so im going to go ahead and continue on my buying spree. ill save injectors and whether to keep the red or swap to black till december when ill have the motor put together.
The black is basically a bolt on 35R turbo from what i was told by fp staff with less lag and more potential on pump gas.

I am leaning towards the buschur 2.3. You're gonna wanna keep your block because it will be used as a good core otherwise youll pay another $1000 for core charge.

Im gonna play russian roulette and leave the car as is right now for a good 1000 miles and if it holds up then great, if not ill eat the core charge i guess. I under estimated the power im making, im not so sure i want to skip up to 500whp just yet.
Old Oct 2, 2009, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Liqquid
After the mess I went through (and am still cleaning up) I'd definitely recommend the rods and pistons.. I see someone mentioned the stock shorty being safe to 600whp.. this may be true however the torque is going to be the trouble.. if I had to do this over again, knowing what I do now, I'd have kept it less aggressive around the 4000-5000 area... lots of guys going over 500whp on stock block... most with bigger turbos, more lag and no torque peak.. not the same thing as what your car and mine have. I've turned up alot of advice from tuners recommending not to go over 425 to 450 wtq. on the stocker...

The hole in the block is only part of the problem, the rod can come out and break all kinds of other stuff too. (tcase, for example)
so you think at the TQ im at now im in danger at the rpm range you just said? Im waiting for sean to get back to me on a full build labor cost, if the price is right ill do it sooner then expected, but for now im enjoying the car as is. how long did it take you with 450+ tq to grenade? (mileage)
Old Oct 2, 2009, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
how long did it take you with 450+ tq to grenade? (mileage)
I'd say 25+ dyno pulls (tuning new ProEfi from scratch) 300-350 highway miles, 5 drag passes and 10 street 3rd/4th gear pulls... some messing around on the highway too... in other words it didn't take long.
Old Oct 2, 2009, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
The black is basically a bolt on 35R turbo from what i was told by fp staff with less lag and more potential on pump gas.

I am leaning towards the buschur 2.3. You're gonna wanna keep your block because it will be used as a good core otherwise youll pay another $1000 for core charge.

Im gonna play russian roulette and leave the car as is right now for a good 1000 miles and if it holds up then great, if not ill eat the core charge i guess. I under estimated the power im making, im not so sure i want to skip up to 500whp just yet.
what are you talking about LOL. look at my sig . I got a Brand new 2.3 shortblock assembled brand new parts for 2000 shipped no core . Reason why i can sell my longblock. Thats what looking around fishing and hunting for parts gets you. In fact Everything on the new motor is separte NO CORE EXCHANGED at all on any parts and i paid waaaaaaaay under cost you just have to look around and keep your eyes open for the crazy deals with this economy bad right now lots of people are selling great things dirt cheap right now and my mod list is living proof of that. i have not even paid close to full price on anything on the new block im building ill send you a parts list if you want.

p.s i know somebody selling a 2.3 for 3000 NO CORE might be able to talk him down some more if your serious about buying it

Last edited by RockmanX; Oct 2, 2009 at 09:34 PM.
Old Oct 2, 2009, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Liqquid
I'd say 25+ dyno pulls (tuning new ProEfi from scratch) 300-350 highway miles, 5 drag passes and 10 street 3rd/4th gear pulls... some messing around on the highway too... in other words it didn't take long.
Well hell man..... I already did about 50 pulls on the car if not more.... im a lead foot. I probably did 20 2nd gear pulls then about 30-40 3rd and 4th already. Is it possible your tune had to much knock? I logged a bunch of my pulls (8-10) and the max knock counts i seen was 1 to 2 counts and rarely 3. sean tuned this car great. 8/10 pulls no knock at all. I think some of its even phantom knock. What gas were you using? E85 may help me get away with the stock block


EDIT: NM I remember you. But I think whoever tuned your car squeezed it for all it was worth and the tune was probably knock prone?
plus you're making almost 50WTQ more then me, thats quite a difference when we are talking stock internals. Regardless..... I will have a 2.3
in here eventually. I have about 300 miles on the tune so far. Just taking friends for rides alone probably put 20 miles on the car. plus your
numbers were on cobbs low reading mustang dyno, mine are dynojet. thats probably another 20-30WTQ diff.

Last edited by tscompusa2; Oct 2, 2009 at 10:46 PM.
Old Oct 2, 2009, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RockmanX
what are you talking about LOL. look at my sig . I got a Brand new 2.3 shortblock assembled brand new parts for 2000 shipped no core . Reason why i can sell my longblock. Thats what looking around fishing and hunting for parts gets you. In fact Everything on the new motor is separte NO CORE EXCHANGED at all on any parts and i paid waaaaaaaay under cost you just have to look around and keep your eyes open for the crazy deals with this economy bad right now lots of people are selling great things dirt cheap right now and my mod list is living proof of that. i have not even paid close to full price on anything on the new block im building ill send you a parts list if you want.

p.s i know somebody selling a 2.3 for 3000 NO CORE might be able to talk him down some more if your serious about buying it
is it a buschur 2.3?
Old Oct 3, 2009, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
is it a buschur 2.3?
nope shop builted and tested of course. you know it does not have to be buschur or ams to be good. ill leave it at that. now if you want a buchur 2.3 then nope typac has been trying to sell his 2.3 buschur shortblock no core for some time now. you can look into his if you want that brand
Old Oct 3, 2009, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by RockmanX
nope shop builted and tested of course. you know it does not have to be buschur or ams to be good. ill leave it at that. now if you want a buchur 2.3 then nope typac has been trying to sell his 2.3 buschur shortblock no core for some time now. you can look into his if you want that brand
If I get something it will be new, not 2nd hand. I dont trust any used shortblocks. That dude trying to sell his buschur block wont ever sell it because his attitude is horrible towards the sale.
Old Oct 3, 2009, 10:59 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
What gas were you using? E85 may help me get away with the stock block
Yes, E85 on the dyno, and then a retune at the track for E75 or 80, can't remember what it was...

Originally Posted by tscompusa
. But I think whoever tuned your car squeezed it for all it was worth and the tune was probably knock prone?
I doubt it... although I did not log it, Tym Switzer has been doing 4G's since the beginning... hell he even made the first coil on plug ignition for DSM back in the day. I've had all my tunes done from him since I just had stock turbo cams and exhaust, never had a problem.. However, more importantly is what happened to the engine.. instead of damage to the piston tops, rings or plugs like you would see with knock, the connecting rod broke in half right in the middle of the beam.. from what I've been told that is from pushing it past the rod's limit for torque.

Originally Posted by tscompusa
plus your numbers were on cobbs low reading mustang dyno, mine are dynojet. thats probably another 20-30WTQ diff.
Mine are dynojet.. but I know the one you're talking about, it's dyno is on the FP site.

Anyways sorry for the OT, that's some great power on stock ECU and also stock maf?
Old Oct 3, 2009, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Liqquid
Yes, E85 on the dyno, and then a retune at the track for E75 or 80, can't remember what it was...



I doubt it... although I did not log it, Tym Switzer has been doing 4G's since the beginning... hell he even made the first coil on plug ignition for DSM back in the day. I've had all my tunes done from him since I just had stock turbo cams and exhaust, never had a problem.. However, more importantly is what happened to the engine.. instead of damage to the piston tops, rings or plugs like you would see with knock, the connecting rod broke in half right in the middle of the beam.. from what I've been told that is from pushing it past the rod's limit for torque.



Mine are dynojet.. but I know the one you're talking about, it's dyno is on the FP site.

Anyways sorry for the OT, that's some great power on stock ECU and also stock maf?
yes stock maf. I think the only thing I got going here to my advantage is the fp red's turbo lag then vs your fp green hta. There are a handful of evos on stock block with over 500tq tho with thousands of miles under their belts so maybe its the luck of the drawl or the way the op drives his car.

I dont get on it until my rpm's are atleast 4k or higher now, anything lower is asking for trouble.
Old Oct 3, 2009, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
yes stock maf.

sweet.. was that a 3rd or 4th gear dyno? Great power, you've motivated me to stop watching football and go work on mine some more


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