Mustang VS Dynojet Numbers
#18
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I heard TTP just had a Mustang technician come down and calibrate it to the correct standards.
Even then, the reason TTP's was different was because they used correction. When you're living in a state that's 80-90 degrees compared to a state that's in the 50s, some correction should be made.
Whatever...a dyno should be used as a before/after and not to compare between different dynos.
Even then, the reason TTP's was different was because they used correction. When you're living in a state that's 80-90 degrees compared to a state that's in the 50s, some correction should be made.
Whatever...a dyno should be used as a before/after and not to compare between different dynos.
#22
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My car only did 509hp@38psi on the Precision BB5857 In comparisson to 535hp with the weather correction I did on my street tune with the red last time at TTP. So yeah I say that TTP'S dyno is reading right on par with other "Low" reading Mustand Dynos.
Last edited by Evo2wIsh4; Apr 26, 2010 at 06:24 PM.
#24
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The main diffence is spoolup. The red would hit hard right at 3800 while the 5857 hits at 4500 but the 5857 keeps making power all the way past 8k while the red died down after 7200. My new setup feels way faster than the red eventhough it made "less" power.
#25
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I was trying to pick between a 5857 and a Red but I picked the Red for spoolup and the fact that the front facing 5857 setup I wanted to do came out total to about $6800 So that was ultimately my deciding factor in picking the Red, cost and still can make me over 500whp.
#26
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A properly calibrated mustang dyno will read about 12% lower than a dynojet with equal correction factors (i've tested this multiple times with 3 dynojets and 2 different mustang dynos). Another thing you have to keep in mind is where the weather station is located in relation to the actual car. Most dyno areas have the weather station on a wall somewhere or under the table somewhere so alot of times its correcting for conditions that are different from what the car is actually seeing at its intake ( cool air from fans, hot air from no fans or crappy fans, heat soak or the near by air from the engine heat, a cool breeze blowing through, or even exhaust contamination around the vehicle with shops that are less ventilated ) . This can have a pretty huge affect on the corrected power output. Thats why its best just to see baseline vs final powergains. There are too many variables that can affect the readings.. I've even done tests and proven that strapping the car closer to the front of the roller or farther to the back of the roller and tighter and looser can greatly affect the power readings. Mustang dynos and dynapacks do allow for much better tunes due to their loading strategy, but comparing one number to another will never really be an apples to apples comparison due to all the variables.
Last edited by Bugermass; Apr 26, 2010 at 07:06 PM.
#28
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Why are my number higher on a dynojet then? Its easier for the car to turn the rollers of the dynojet than the mustang. I know the mustang can load my car more, resulting in quicker spool or possibly more boost, but it still read lower...
#29
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-Kevin
12.1@117MPH
386/381 MD
410/427 DJ
12.1@117MPH
386/381 MD
410/427 DJ
Most dynos for turbo cars do not use weather correction on turbo cars so when you are talking about "equal correction factors" it makes no sense.
#30
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The numbers are numbers, its not like I had the shops play with correction factors or modes to supply me with a number that would make me happy. Simply said tune it, printed a sheet, and then I tracked it. The setup isnt perfrect yet by any means! Just sharing my results with everyone, b/c I know I enjoying looking at new charts just as much as you all.