I know, no disrespect, just an interesting point, i forgot about that actually The 8/9 black seems to flow a bit more after dynoing days after an 8 with a black on a 2.0L.

 

its a long rod motor which comes close to a 2.1 if im correct

 

Mikey is just making fun and pointing out that his 2.4L. engine is based on a 4G64 short block. As such it has the stock crank with standard 100mm stroke and 86.5mm bore size. Thus, it is not stroked, but rather as stock as you can get. It is not a stroker motor.

The 2.3L. engine, on the other hand, is a "stroker". It is a 2.0L. block fitted with a 4G64 crank. It has stock 2L bore size of 85mm with the 100mm 4G64 crankshaft. The 2.3, is thus a true stroker motor.

 

Spools faster, but power dies off earlier. That's why I sold mine, I wanted a turbo that would hold power to 8500+rpms.

 

pulls till i lift on mine, but i dont go past 8k.

 

He's rockin a long rod 2.4L.

The block is a 4G64 and uses the 4G64 100mm stroke crankshaft with 86.5mm bores and 156mm rods.

The rods are 6mm longer than stock, so the wrist pin needs to be raised up 6mm on the piston.

Stock 2.4L use the following:
4G64 Deck Height is 235mm.
Piston Compression Height is 35mm.
Rod Length is 150mm.
1/2 the 100mm stroke is 50mm.

35 + 150 + 50= 235mm total rotating assembly height.

Long Rod 2.4L use the following:
Piston Compression Height = 29mm.
Rod Length = 156mm.
1/2 the 100mm stroke = 50mm.

29 + 156 + 50= 235mm total rotating assembly height.

True long rod 2.1L use the 2.0L 88mm crankshaft, 162mm Long Rods and pistons with a compression height of 29mm.

29 + 162 + 44= 235mm total rotating assembly height.

Twin Scroll 2.0L FTMFW!

 

ok cool thanks for the info i am starting a long rod build here in a few week and this helps out but now which is the better option to go with the 4g64 or the 63 crank and the longer rod . i will be doing some mild head work as well .

 

If you plan on racing it at the track all the time then do a 2.0 or 2.1LR. If you want the most bad *** street motor for some track use do the 2.4LR. I rev my 2.4LR to 8500 with ease, so it is still a great revving motor and still good for the track. I will never go to another motor after having my 2.4LR. If anything, I would try to lighten up the rotational mass and put a 159mm rod it it. Should be able to rev 8800-9000 farily easy without problems in the long run.

Mikey

 

How safe is that to run a 159mm rod? Isn't it puttin the wrist pin even further up in the piston?

 

Correct, you are moving the wrist pin up further. I have spoke with Wiseco and they ensure me that the HDs would not break, crack, deform, or anything. They advised not to move the wrist pin any further up than that though. If I went that route I think I would put the oil squirters back in to aid in the cooling of the pistons, just to be safe.

The piston would also be lighter which is good for a high reving motors. I would inturn put titanium rods into the equation to help lower the weight of the rods. If I experiment with this it won't be till next summer... I need to pay off some bills first. I think with the right setup, reving 8800+ daily and 9000+ at the track will not be a worry in my mind. The main thing at that point is getting the head/turbo to flows the amount of air needed at 9k rpms on the 2.4L.

Mikey

 

ti rods? Do you sell keys of coca or something?

 

Mystery solved. HaHaHaHaLOL