What 10* ???That's not possible!Actually 429 whp on that d.d dyno is actually 498 on a dynojet .You made less power on the new tune then the old one And I don'b believe it only had 10* .

 

Jason,

Thanks for the feedback on the FiD turbo kit. I'm glad you're happy with the kit. It's unfortunate for us that AJ sold the car before we got a chance to finish up with the upgrade to the intercooler piping/intercooler setup, but he ran across a supra turbo for sale that he couldn't pass up--but it's another nice car that we get to upgrade and tune

We don't know what happen from the time he sold the car to you to the time it was retuned by your shop, but that car left our shop tuned for 28.5-29psi not 25psi and it was making 429whp on our PTUNING DD dyno, which is ALOT more than 458 on a dynojet.

But regardless, the post was about the FiD exhaust manifold/hotside vs a competitor using the same turbo.

Let us know when you're ready to upgrade to a 6262 or larger

MrC

 

maybe the other tuner sand bagged the tune cause 429 on your dyno is like almost 500 whp but for a 30 r at this boost level is a bit hard to do..

 

I watched it roll up on the dyno, and make the run without anything hooked up to the car. I also hawked Diiirk when he datalogged it. It _DID_ have 10 degrees total timing advance originally as I watched the log go by with my own eyes. If the tune changed after the dyno run they made because AJ wanted it super safe in case the meth failed - its possible. Or its possible there was correction factors on the Dyno Dynamics dyno that were not disclosed. I can only speak for what I have in my hands and what I saw with my own eyes.

Yeah it REALLY needs new intercooler piping. When I have the new aluminum intake pipe fabbed up for it - I think I will take some nice pictures that show everyone what happens when their beautifully coated ETS upper intake pipes have prolonged contact with meth.. (hint: it's not pretty)

Again - the hotside is a work of art that fits like a glove - kudos to FiD!

 

Jason,

There was no correction factor on our dyno (zero, none), but it doesn't matter, what's important is that you're happy with your the turbo setup and your new tune. We always tell our customer don't get so catch up in the number and focus on the percent gain from before and after. At the end of the day, if the car drives smoothly and your satisfied with the feel of the added power, that's all that matters.

We're not a fan of steel intercooler piping either. It's cheap, heavy and it rust easily and with forced inductions, there's a lot of heat generated in the piping and engine bay. But i guess you get what you pay for, aluminum is the way to go. And your right, meth and steel does not look too well after a season of driving.

Again, thanks for your feedback and let us know if we can be of any help with your future mods.

MrC

 

I agree 100%. comparing different dynos in different states with different weather and different elevations is pointless. I usually pick one, get a baseline, and then use that baseline as a reflection on the efficacy of future mods. Regardless of the dyno numbers, the car drives and pulls awesome. Even Diiirk mentioned he liked the way the car spooled when he was tuning it. FWIW - the tune as I received the car went 114mph in the 1/4 on my first ever pass in the car @ 25psi with a 2.4 60ft

As far as the kit goes - again it's a fantastic kit, and for anyone who thinks v-bands aren't worth the extra few bucks - let me know how you like re-sealing your turbo flange when you blow out the gasket or ultra-copper, or how many times over the course of 5-6 years you need to re-coat your non-stainless exhaust housing.

 

Should have ordered the SS piping then huh

 

removed.

 

Not another ETS vs the world thread! There is a lot more to consider then just changing the manifold on this build.

The TiAL turbine housing alone is worth decent power. The .63 A/R TiAL turbine housing is not the same size as a T3 .63 A/R Turbine Housing. Even though the A/R's are the same the internal area is different (larger).

It should also be noted ETS offers a TiAL or Precision v-band housing equal length kit as well. This is our budget kit.

Mild steel piping is a thing of the past, we only use Stainless Steel now.

I love the debate between aluminum and stainless.... Aluminum will dissipate heat better? Does it absorb heat in a hot engine bay easier as well? We have tested both and found no difference but durability and the stainless out did the aluminum every time. If you price the aluminum per ft vs stainless steel, the aluminum is much cheaper and easier to produce.

V-band Turbo Kit (Front Facing)


** We also build it in standard configuration.

Thanks,

Michael

 

This particular customer wanted to upgrade the parts thus is what was done here. IC piping or what other options are offered are irrelevant to this, just a new vs old graph overlay nothing more, nothing less.

 

Thanks for the clarifications.

This thread was not intended as our product vs ETS thread. It just happens that this customer got tired of dealing with the issues he had with his old manifold setup, so he decided that he wanted to upgrade his setup to our v-band manifold and downpipe. This customer wanted to keep his GT30R, so we recommended the tial ss housing to match the v-band.

The purpose of this post was to show that changing to the right hot side components can net additional power given the same size turbo. And it's obviously that you know that your econ setup can be improved on as well, hence the reason for your other equal length manifold setup.

Also SS is better suited for exhaust piping and not intercooler piping. There's no need for all that extra weight from ss tubing when it has no real benefit over alum. for intercooler piping. The price difference between alum and ss is marginal. That's like building a cast ss intake manifold.
MrC

 

This is a personal opinion. I have personally seen aluminum piping destroyed from rock debris and heavy vibration (stroker kits). Stainless steel allows the customers to tighten the clamp as tight as possible without damaging the piping. It may be heavier but it's going to outlast the car.

Michael

 

If you are paying as much for aluminum tube as stainless, you are either getting a killer deal on your stainless or reamed on your aluminum.

2.5" aluminum tube is about $2.50 a foot
2.5" 304 stainless is about $10 a foot


Stainless is A LOT more then aluminum. It comes down to personal opinion though. Aluminum doesn't hold up nearly as well, but it is also 1/3 the weight. Although, you can use 0.049" wall 304 and it will hold up well and the thicker aluminum will only be about 1/2 the weight.

I personally would always use aluminum because of the weight. But I think if I just wanted an IC pipe to make power and last, it would be 0.049" stainless all the way. It will also polish up a lot nicer if you are into that type of thing.

 

What issues if I may ask.

Thanks

 

It is a personal opinion on material you decide to use, and to each there own. So @ that, lets just let the topic of IC piping go and move on...