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Old Jun 24, 2011, 10:14 AM
  #31  
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Yes the turboXS is one of the first things im getting rid off! Im gonna go back to my stocker IC and change the LICP, UICP and air intake kit for the ETS ones in the mean time. Then get me either a hallman or a 3 port and a retune to see if anything has changed.

P.S: any suggestions on after market actuators?
Old Jun 24, 2011, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by gymnasty
Yes the turboXS is one of the first things im getting rid off! Im gonna go back to my stocker IC and change the LICP, UICP and air intake kit for the ETS ones in the mean time. Then get me either a hallman or a 3 port and a retune to see if anything has changed.

P.S: any suggestions on after market actuators?
I used the Forge wastegate actuator on my stock IX turbo for a couple yrs and it worked really well. Also FP has an 18psi actuator that works well also. Either one of those & go with a Hallman, ceramic ball & stiff spring...
Old Jun 24, 2011, 10:50 AM
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I hate on 3 ports and do not find them necessary. A good MBC like the Hallman gets it done and if you need multiple settings and easy, then the AEM Truboost.
Old Jun 24, 2011, 11:00 AM
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@johnbradley thanks john i am also leaning more towards the hallman pro rs (the one with the ceramic ball and stiffer spring).

@06mrevo what about the FP actuator that has a 24lbs spring. Is that any better than the 18lbs one?
thanks
Old Jun 24, 2011, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gymnasty
@johnbradley thanks john i am also leaning more towards the hallman pro rs (the one with the ceramic ball and stiffer spring).

@06mrevo what about the FP actuator that has a 24lbs spring. Is that any better than the 18lbs one?
thanks
FP makes a 25psi actuator. Personally I think the 25 psi actuator with a stock turbo & 93 oct. might be a bit much...With 93. oct. the stock turbo will start running out of steam up top even at 25psi. According to Forge, their stiff spring actuator goes from 19-24psi. With that actuator, Hallman Pro RX (stiff spring) I want to say I never dropped below 21-22psi by redline with my IX turbo on 93 oct. A 3psi or so taper by redline isn't a problem...
Old Jun 27, 2011, 12:48 AM
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Get yourself a nice AMS,ETS, or BR FMIC and you should be very happy! Nice numbers BTW!
Old Jun 28, 2011, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JDMCT9MR
Get yourself a nice AMS,ETS, or BR FMIC and you should be very happy! Nice numbers BTW!
thanks bud! im going back to my stocker 9 intercooler and getting MUSE upper and lower IC piping with a ETS intake kit. then a hallman pro RX and retune. lets hope i make more hp and torque this time around.
Old Jul 1, 2011, 09:44 AM
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imo that turboxs is prolly better then the stocker even though the turboxs might not be the best and most efficient intercooler out there.
Old Jul 1, 2011, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by dastallion951
imo that turboxs is prolly better then the stocker even though the turboxs might not be the best and most efficient intercooler out there.
you're confused i dont have a turboxs IC. i have a crappy Ebay core hence why im going back to the stocker since the stock one is good up to 400whp.
Old Jul 1, 2011, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gymnasty
Should I do a leak down test too considering what my compression results were?
Dry: 135, 140, 150, 135
Wet: 140, 149, 157, 150
Originally Posted by Fast_Freddie
Compression test looks good...
Umm those results have more then 14psi difference (factory limit), so I dont know if I would say it "looks good".
Old Jul 1, 2011, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted Tuning
Umm those results have more then 14psi difference (factory limit), so I dont know if I would say it "looks good".
yea i was thinking the same thing. what do you suggest i do? leak down test? new piston rings? TIA
Old Jul 1, 2011, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by gymnasty
yea i was thinking the same thing. what do you suggest i do? leak down test? new piston rings? TIA
First thing I would suggest is doing another compression test and see if you get similar results. Usually when I do a compression test, I do it twice to make sure the numbers are consistent.

Also, if your using an old, inconstant or poor qulaity compression tester, Id recommend an better one.

Then go from there.
Old Jul 1, 2011, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted Tuning
First thing I would suggest is doing another compression test and see if you get similar results. Usually when I do a compression test, I do it twice to make sure the numbers are consistent.

Also, if your using an old, inconstant or poor qulaity compression tester, Id recommend an better one.

Then go from there.
thanks man! if i do another compression test and it comes out again to be very similar to the previous numbers. what does that indicate and what should i do from there?

how about if the new compression numbers come out to be worse then previous? what would that indicate and what steps should i take from there?

sorry for all the questions i just wanna make sure the motor is healthy. and if its not how to get it that way.

Last edited by gymnasty; Jul 1, 2011 at 05:46 PM.
Old Jul 1, 2011, 07:17 PM
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those results are definitely not good. to much variation between the cylinders. when doing the test, you have all the plugs removed right? and doing as many cranks as it takes until each cylinder stops going up in pressure also? (with the gas pedal pushed in).. if the same results occur then do a leak down test to find your problem. the headgasket could be slightly leaking, or maybe some seals need replaced in the head.

since it went up so much with oil tho, thats a good sign that the rings are pretty worn also. ring wear usually is caused from excessive knock/detonation overtime.

if using a mini battery do the testing with it hooked up on a charger also.

Last edited by tscompusa2; Jul 1, 2011 at 07:58 PM. Reason: added info
Old Jul 1, 2011, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
those results are definitely not good. to much variation between the cylinders. when doing the test, you have all the plugs removed right? and doing as many cranks as it takes until each cylinder stops going up in pressure also? (with the gas pedal pushed in).. if the same results occur then do a leak down test to find your problem. the headgasket could be slightly leaking, or maybe some seals need replaced in the head.

since it went up so much with oil tho, thats a good sign that the rings are pretty worn also. ring wear usually is caused from excessive knock/detonation overtime.

if using a mini battery do the testing with it hooked up on a charger also.
yes all the plugs were removed. i also did as many cranks as it took on each cylinder till the pressure stopped with the gas pedal wot. im gonna redue the compression again followed by a leak down test. im curious how will the leak down test tell me where the problem is exactly? tia
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