Evo 8 with Evo 9 Turbo results
Aug 28, 2011, 09:19 AM
#1
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Evo 8 with Evo 9 Turbo results
After I fixed my boost leak, AMS re-tuned my car for the following results:
I converted the Mustang Dyno results to Dynojet.
According to AMS there is a 8 to 9% variance between the two dyno's (Mustang dyno reading lower than the Dynojet) I used a factor of 8.5%. I do this because my car was originally tuned on the Dynojet.
Video of my latest dyno pull and my last race event:
http://youtu.be/7H8BDIY3la4
I converted the Mustang Dyno results to Dynojet.
According to AMS there is a 8 to 9% variance between the two dyno's (Mustang dyno reading lower than the Dynojet) I used a factor of 8.5%. I do this because my car was originally tuned on the Dynojet.
Video of my latest dyno pull and my last race event:
http://youtu.be/7H8BDIY3la4
Last edited by rio-evo; Aug 30, 2011 at 07:48 PM.
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Aug 31, 2011, 10:40 AM
#8
I did the evo 9 conversion also and my turbo gets me 30 psi by 3500 rpms on 93oct.,love the quick spool,most off the other evo's i've worked on or tuned, spool about the same,i always do the wastegate mod though,it really helps with spool time.
Evo VIII,HKS 272 cams,Vishnu cam gears,Injen LICP,UICP,intake,ETS 4" FMIC,Evo 9 turbo,Forge dv,forge mbc,3" Magnaflow tbe,ACT stage 3 clutch with Pro lite flywheel,Zietronix WB,Walbro 255gph,
Aug 31, 2011, 11:24 AM
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I did the evo 9 conversion also and my turbo gets me 30 psi by 3500 rpms on 93oct.,love the quick spool,most off the other evo's i've worked on or tuned, spool about the same,i always do the wastegate mod though,it really helps with spool time.Evo VIII,HKS 272 cams,Vishnu cam gears,Injen LICP,UICP,intake,ETS 4" FMIC,Evo 9 turbo,Forge dv,forge mbc,3" Magnaflow tbe,ACT stage 3 clutch with Pro lite flywheel,Zietronix WB,Walbro 255gph,
Sep 1, 2011, 04:34 AM
#10
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...pring-mod.htmlI only did step 2 of this mod,i actually didn't have to completely remove the wastegate from the car,you just need some long needle nose pliers to pull the wastegate arm to put it back on the lever and your ok,i did like 3 full turns on the eye lid,let me know how it works for you.
Sep 1, 2011, 05:40 AM
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...pring-mod.htmlI only did step 2 of this mod,i actually didn't have to completely remove the wastegate from the car,you just need some long needle nose pliers to pull the wastegate arm to put it back on the lever and your ok,i did like 3 full turns on the eye lid,let me know how it works for you.
Sep 1, 2011, 06:27 AM
#12
in saying that, i would shoot for ~50% of the "turn buckle hole" of preload.
just because you have to pull the actuator a bit, to get it over the peg of the w/g arm, the puck inside the hotside covering the w/g holes, can still spin. i have experienced this many times when setting up turbos for people.
btw, what bov r u running?
Sep 1, 2011, 07:34 AM
#13
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if you have the 18psi unit, your way better off. just be certain that there is enough preload.
in saying that, i would shoot for ~50% of the "turn buckle hole" of preload.
just because you have to pull the actuator a bit, to get it over the peg of the w/g arm, the puck inside the hotside covering the w/g holes, can still spin. i have experienced this many times when setting up turbos for people.
btw, what bov r u running?
in saying that, i would shoot for ~50% of the "turn buckle hole" of preload.
just because you have to pull the actuator a bit, to get it over the peg of the w/g arm, the puck inside the hotside covering the w/g holes, can still spin. i have experienced this many times when setting up turbos for people.
btw, what bov r u running?
Thanks,
Sep 1, 2011, 09:17 AM
#14
^ i believe fp has a "how to" on their site.
the thing is, just because you have a little preoad slipping the turn-buckle over the w/g arm peg, where the pin/clip goes, doent necessarily mean you have enough preload keeping the flapper shut & sealed.
imo, that w/g arm bends ever so slightly over time, that there is less pre-load when the turn buckle is fully slid across & seated vs. just getting the turn buckle over the w/g arm peg.
the thing is, just because you have a little preoad slipping the turn-buckle over the w/g arm peg, where the pin/clip goes, doent necessarily mean you have enough preload keeping the flapper shut & sealed.
imo, that w/g arm bends ever so slightly over time, that there is less pre-load when the turn buckle is fully slid across & seated vs. just getting the turn buckle over the w/g arm peg.
Sep 1, 2011, 09:21 AM
#15
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^ i believe fp has a "how to" on their site.
the thing is, just because you have a little preoad slipping the turn-buckle over the w/g arm peg, where the pin/clip goes, doent necessarily mean you have enough preload keeping the flapper shut & sealed.
imo, that w/g arm bends ever so slightly over time, that there is less pre-load when the turn buckle is fully slid across & seated vs. just getting the turn buckle over the w/g arm peg.
the thing is, just because you have a little preoad slipping the turn-buckle over the w/g arm peg, where the pin/clip goes, doent necessarily mean you have enough preload keeping the flapper shut & sealed.
imo, that w/g arm bends ever so slightly over time, that there is less pre-load when the turn buckle is fully slid across & seated vs. just getting the turn buckle over the w/g arm peg.