Looking good Revo, 2.3L is a great idea. I approve

I also totally agree with the "its way smarter/cheaper to not blow the motor up". It adds a bunch more time and money to a build. I would say take care of the car now and take it easy until you build it.

Also, if you can, build it now! Shops are slow now, once race season starts expect anywhere from 2-6 months to build it. It's easily half the time if you do it in winter.

Your thought process is true in some regards but there is no perfect single answer. I pushed my stock motor, blew it up and then built it to handle everything and spun a bearing. So sometimes **** happens when you build it, but it is senseless to not take some precautions if you want something to last.

 

Im going through the motor build process as of now, customer service wins when backed with a proven track record.

Maybe your motor is holding that kind of power but how many have not, it also largely depends on what you do with the car and how you do it.
My car has 40k on the stock block its whole life it has been between 400-530whp backed by dyno graphs and most of those miles are road racing.

But i self tune limiting low end torque, i do not go heavy throttle in 4th or 5th below 4500 very often or ever if i can help it. I dont rev beyond 7k very often, and now i run a 450whp 400trq setting but i have 530whp 440trq available if i want it. Also the preventative stuff is done often.
Like you said no gaurantees. Except that a stock motor in the Mid 400 trq range is a time bomb unless you drive it pretty much like i do.

 

He will build his motor when he is ready. I would have map build it! I'm from Minnesota and they are good. If you want to make the drive you should go to AMS!

 

I never said anything about a guarantee. Seems like you've had some bad luck but your logic is flawed. Like I said, you've done it for 30k, but you haven't proven anything aside from the fact that these motors are stronger than most and occasionally last with stock internals and high horsepower. **** happens, might as well be as prepared as possible if you have the means and a reputable shop and tuner.

 

OP you should get a second map done for now like i did. I had a tune done at 22psi and another at 33psi. Its good to have so you dont stress the motor much.

 

edit: My car was road raced before I bought it over a year ago. I bought the car with race wheel/tires and it definitely has the brownbos to show it was driven hard. Sure, one car doesn't mean much. Anyone with any platform can likely find small examples of anything they want to argue. My logic and thought process is heavily influenced building my Z. My car is reliable after a full twin turbo conversion and full motor build. I don't have complaints about it's reliability or its drivability. It has taken me numerous times to Chicago (over 800 miles round trip) and has never left me stranded. My basis for argument is, I could have had just as much fun with my car on a stock block, still twin turbo'd, and forgone the months of build time, headache with the machine shop, delays getting parts, and more importantly, pocketed the thousands of bucks everything cost. There are no guarantees the stock block would have lasted more than 1000 miles, but on the same note, I have seen people go to reputable shops and have 3, even 4 motors blow before they leave the shop
/edit

all I am saying is, the motor isn't broken now. It is running fine... others are doing the same thing. I would argue if it ain't broke, why try and fix it? All you are doing is potentially opening a wound that isn't even there.

It's not like this car is pushing power into uncharted territory. It's a street car that I doubt gets driven all that hard (relatively speaking). I would go so far as to say he has 20-30k more miles before I personally would be pricing out and talking to shops to have it built. I think many on here saying build it "for peace of mind" or "to be safe" are being overly conservative about the stock block and overly optimistic about a build.


As far as where to build it... again, let's just say that locals have a better insight into certain shops in this area that some on evoM might not. We have a few good shops here in MN, and Revo would be smart to talk to all of them before deciding where to potentially spend his money.

 

just going to throw this out there -
ask him who he currently is using to tune his car
.
.
.
.
.


RS motors
DB performance
Full-Blown

^all good shops in our area. no reason to go to AMS

 

isn't one of the benefits of having a turbo setup being able to use your right foot to manipulate the amount of power and boost the car makes? I have lower PSI maps for my car... but why run them? I want the power if I need it and the rest of the time, one should be able to drive it without hitting max boost and reving it out on every shift.

 

Well gents, after much deliberation I have decided to go with a MAP 2.3L. I may also give the EF4 a shot. I gave Chris the ok to start the shortblock and prepare to drop it in later this month. Stoked!

Build Details:

MAP 2.3L Stage 2
MAP I Beam Connecting Rods
Wiseco 9:1 HD Series Pistons
ACL Race Series Main and Rod Bearings
New OEM with Balance Shaft Delete
MAP Kit (Gates racing belt, water pump, all tensioners & pulleys)
GSC S2 CAMs
Beehive Springs
OEM Mitsubishi Gaskets (inc. head gasket)
MAP Ultimate Duty headstuds

 

It would be neat to just do the engine and keep the turbo the same for a while, thatd be a killer street setup 550TRQ HA

 

Sounds like a great build! Post updates when you get them!

 

My car is meth injected... I dont want to be dumping methanol everytime i get in it. I only use 93 oct. Now lets not get off topic ...

 

agreed.

edit: zivman, solid novel, if it ain't broke, don't fix it is more applicable to a transmission that shifts perfectly than a motor running torque levels that are proven to blow it. he's building it anyway, i'm happy your cars don't blow up, best of luck. Revo's car is going to be a monster.

 

I'm from Minnesota and I know all those shops are legit when it comes to building an Evo. I would personally use MAP or AMS. They are both proven to produce insane evos. Not saying RS motors or DB are bad shops at all. I will either have RS or MAP build my Evo when I get back to MN

 

you need E85 and that will get rid of your meth problem