BR 2.3 - FP Black DBB - 36psi - E85
Aug 27, 2012, 05:43 PM
#31
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The only thing i have to do is GSC S3's. There is no more timing in the car from 6000rpm+. Downlow its alittle conservative though. There is definitely more power left with boost, but im not going to push the turbo any harder then what it is for now. im monitoring water pressure WOT and its getting pretty high.
there is no loss in spool.
Also - Can you verify you have zero loss in spool through logs? Increasing the plenum size as you have should make a spool loss a guarantee. Not trying to calling you out, but would like to see the data for my own knowledge.
Aug 27, 2012, 10:25 PM
#33
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I'll check the fork stop maybe its hitting the clutch fork
Last time i adjusted the master cylinder travel i did it per Jack transmissions guide where you adjust it until you cant push in the slave cylinder rod anymore, then adjust it back until you can push it in.. then that confirms you have max clutch pedal travel.
ive had it on jackstands before also and it is not dragging last i checked. i might need to top it off with more fluid though since a newly built trans will get alittle low after some mileage on it even if it overflows on the first time filling it up.
if you have any other recommendations that i do / check, let me know. thanks.
more info:
just idling in my driveway and trying to shift with the clutch in, 4th gear was hard as hell to go in.. it didnt wanna go in at all. the rest of the gears seemed ok though.
Driving the car 4th gear goes in fine though, and so do the rest of the gears. sometimes at a stop sign when i try to put it in 1st tho it is very rough / hard to go in..
with the car turned off it goes in every gear easy though.. before i had it rebuilt it never did this stuff before ever.
Last time i adjusted the master cylinder travel i did it per Jack transmissions guide where you adjust it until you cant push in the slave cylinder rod anymore, then adjust it back until you can push it in.. then that confirms you have max clutch pedal travel.
ive had it on jackstands before also and it is not dragging last i checked. i might need to top it off with more fluid though since a newly built trans will get alittle low after some mileage on it even if it overflows on the first time filling it up.
if you have any other recommendations that i do / check, let me know. thanks.
more info:
just idling in my driveway and trying to shift with the clutch in, 4th gear was hard as hell to go in.. it didnt wanna go in at all. the rest of the gears seemed ok though.
Driving the car 4th gear goes in fine though, and so do the rest of the gears. sometimes at a stop sign when i try to put it in 1st tho it is very rough / hard to go in..
with the car turned off it goes in every gear easy though.. before i had it rebuilt it never did this stuff before ever.
Aug 27, 2012, 10:49 PM
#34
What are you using as your basis for comparison when logging water pressure?
Also - Can you verify you have zero loss in spool through logs? Increasing the plenum size as you have should make a spool loss a guarantee. Not trying to calling you out, but would like to see the data for my own knowledge.
Also - Can you verify you have zero loss in spool through logs? Increasing the plenum size as you have should make a spool loss a guarantee. Not trying to calling you out, but would like to see the data for my own knowledge.
I will do the comparisons on the interstate for 100% accuracy.
Heres the car all the parts came from on my car though https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-93oct-sd.html
and when i overlay his results to other similar setups of his he lost zero spool. its a mirror image.
--
I use a Autometer water pressure gauge that i hide in my glove box. Its tapped right at the waterpipe behind the block.
its not loggable, i just watch it when i go WOT.
Shouldn't really need to bleed the clutch just because you remove the transmission. all you're doing is unbolting the slave cylinder from the transmission.. as long as there is no leaks or anything it doesn't change the hydraulic system. i did not replace the clutch, only the TOB & wedge collar. pedal feels nice and stiff like it did before i removed trans.
ill double check everything though for re-assurance. maybe it needs slightly adjusted more now at the master cylinder.
Aug 28, 2012, 05:24 AM
#35
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Regarding your trans notchiness, didn't you post earlier you were switching to a heavier weight gear oil for the new trans? That would make a difference in shifting. Do you notice the notchiness being any less once the car warms up? I know mine shifts a ton better once to is warmed up with Redline MT-90. Maybe your just experiencing the difference in gear oil?
Aug 28, 2012, 06:55 AM
#37
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Shouldn't really need to bleed the clutch just because you remove the transmission. all you're doing is unbolting the slave cylinder from the transmission.. as long as there is no leaks or anything it doesn't change the hydraulic system. i did not replace the clutch, only the TOB & wedge collar. pedal feels nice and stiff like it did before i removed trans.
Aug 28, 2012, 08:21 AM
#39
I'll check the fork stop maybe its hitting the clutch fork
Last time i adjusted the master cylinder travel i did it per Jack transmissions guide where you adjust it until you cant push in the slave cylinder rod anymore, then adjust it back until you can push it in.. then that confirms you have max clutch pedal travel.
ive had it on jackstands before also and it is not dragging last i checked. i might need to top it off with more fluid though since a newly built trans will get alittle low after some mileage on it even if it overflows on the first time filling it up.
if you have any other recommendations that i do / check, let me know. thanks.
Last time i adjusted the master cylinder travel i did it per Jack transmissions guide where you adjust it until you cant push in the slave cylinder rod anymore, then adjust it back until you can push it in.. then that confirms you have max clutch pedal travel.
ive had it on jackstands before also and it is not dragging last i checked. i might need to top it off with more fluid though since a newly built trans will get alittle low after some mileage on it even if it overflows on the first time filling it up.
if you have any other recommendations that i do / check, let me know. thanks.
http://www.teamrip.com/manual%20tran...roceedure.html
Aug 28, 2012, 08:38 AM
#41
Dang I been off this forum for a while. I'm glad you finally moved up to a big intake manifold and a tubular exhaust. I remember when I was trying to convince you a while back lol 
those are def good number gains for aftermarket to aftermarket . You still have gobs of power left on the table with the cam change and higher boost. It should be a mid 130 car for sure!
those are def good number gains for aftermarket to aftermarket . You still have gobs of power left on the table with the cam change and higher boost. It should be a mid 130 car for sure!
Aug 28, 2012, 10:36 AM
#43
As I told you yesterday take it easy on it. It sounds like the tranny cables need adjusting and or as suggested above rebleeding ur clutch. If I remember correctly they don't shot peen the new gearsets like Tre does being there all new gears, there is nothing to destress. Let it break in and see if it helps if not call the shop.
Aug 28, 2012, 12:14 PM
#44
Regarding your trans notchiness, didn't you post earlier you were switching to a heavier weight gear oil for the new trans? That would make a difference in shifting. Do you notice the notchiness being any less once the car warms up? I know mine shifts a ton better once to is warmed up with Redline MT-90. Maybe your just experiencing the difference in gear oil?
Thanks Warren!
How did you keep the slave cylinder rod from poping out after unbolting from the trans? These things don't like to stay in the cylinder once they are no longer propped against the clutch fork. Like I said, the re-bleeding helped after the new trans install BUT I did have other issues (lock out past 7k) and my 1st - 2nd is notchy to this day even with gentle shifts. Not sure what caused what but I know the damage has been done....
Thanks Aby!
here's more info...
http://www.teamrip.com/manual%20tran...roceedure.html
http://www.teamrip.com/manual%20tran...roceedure.html
Ive also spoken to him through email, and he recommended higher viscosity for my power level. so i have 75w110 going to go in soon before it goes to track. I will beat on it with that fluid around the house first though to confirm its ready and passes my inspection to see if its track worthy or not. just need to put some more easy miles on it first.
Thank you! The only thing i dont like about the engine bay is the catch can is blocking the tial BOV from being able to see it.. and the wiring. i want to reroute the fuse box and make it all clean looking.
Dang I been off this forum for a while. I'm glad you finally moved up to a big intake manifold and a tubular exhaust. I remember when I was trying to convince you a while back lol those are def good number gains for aftermarket to aftermarket . You still have gobs of power left on the table with the cam change and higher boost. It should be a mid 130 car for sure!
those are def good number gains for aftermarket to aftermarket . You still have gobs of power left on the table with the cam change and higher boost. It should be a mid 130 car for sure!Thanks Pete! Very nice talking with you and meeting you there. I will be there next year and will find you again. I'll definitely bring it with me next year. this year was to risky to rush it and get it there.
As I told you yesterday take it easy on it. It sounds like the tranny cables need adjusting and or as suggested above rebleeding ur clutch. If I remember correctly they don't shot peen the new gearsets like Tre does being there all new gears, there is nothing to destress. Let it break in and see if it helps if not call the shop.