High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

After putting 126K on my Evo IX MR I decided it was time to have Alex at Dogbox Racing build my Evo for longevity and power. I have been running a simple setup which is basically a FP RED, GSC S1 Cams, FIC 1150CC Injectors, and a flash. I make 453 WHP and 400 FP’s or torque on a Dynojet so 400-420 on a Mustang and it was fun. Now I needed to get some routine maintenance and I figured I’d add some mods as well. I decided to bring my Evo to Alex of DOGBOX Racing who is a premier mechanic of all things 4G63.
I am extremely lucky to have him getting my Evo now as he spotted an issue with my timing belt tensioner right away not working properly and it's a miracle I didn't jump timing. Alex is an extremely skilled mechanic and really takes his time making sure everything is perfect. In addition to my mods he found a series of oil leaks and other things broken that I wasn’t even aware of. I'll recommend his services pretty much over anyone's in terms of the 4G63 and he'll talk you out of parts you don't need for your build and simply knows what works on these cars and what is simply snake oil. Alex has been basically doing all my installs since the car has been stock and the results speak for themselves. I am in it for the long haul and I don't see me selling this car as there is nothing to replace it with. I made a thread 5 years ago when I first got my FP RED and had good results.

The thread is here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...same-dyno.html

Below is my previous power on a stock bottom end, GSC S1 Cams, and FIC 1150 Injectors. Basic build and greats results.

Now I am going with a built bottom end. This will give me plenty of breathing room as the stock rods appear to be quite thin and I’d like a cushion. A full refresh is always good and the head is off anyways. I am going with MANLEY H-Beam and MANLEY 9.0-1 Pistons stock size. Nothing special and will hold 650HP and should last me another 100K or so and are far better than the OEM Rods I am adding an AMS VSR Intake Manifold with a Ported stock Throttle Body (65MM vs 60MM STOCK). I am also adding GSC S2 Cams with the requisite springs and retainers. I hope to touch 500WHP on these mods but if you look at my dyno graph you can see the power falling off after 7000 RPM's. With the intake manifold, CAMS, and Throttle Body I should see that power rise until the Turbo quits. I should probably see an additional 100-300 RPM's of lag but the power band will increase to make up for it. Basically I made the Turbo the Weak point so I don’t have to worry as much about popping my motor.

I will be tuning this car on the same dyno and the same tuner, IVEY Tune, who I simply recommend above all here in the North East. I am lucky to have him near me and his results speak for themselves. It will be nice to have an apples to apples comparison with the same car, same dyno, and relatively common mods on a 100% street car.

Pics of the tear down and you can see my OEM rods don't have a hint of bending evidence of their prowess but also look at how thin they are; 1G 6 Bolt DSM rods they are not. My motor was leaking oil pretty badly and a lot of the seals need to be replaced, nothing major but ongoing so there is some coating. Alex spent a great amount of time just getting the oil off my car from all the leaks; very meticulous. Alex also got the head hot tanked and resurfaced use all new gaskets to ensure a perfect fit. Alex points out that after time, age, and milage the head tends to warp slightly and this will correct all variables.
The oil all over the turbo is what happens when you run the oil breather back to the intake from the Valve Cover like stock but that will be deleted shortly. The EGR is also removed as well so I will have some codes to deal with. I will follow up with pics and a video of it idling and obviously the final dyno sheet after a solid break in. The results will be a direct comparison to the past and my goal is a usable street car. Maybe in the future I can look at a 35R HTA but I like that twin scroll spool-up and usability of a stock frame turbo. A big boy turbo however sounds nice.


PICS:




Engine block is surprisingly clean as the cylinders still have the cross hatches clearly viable even after 126,000. Notice the oil build-up from leaks. Cam seals went.





My pistons and rods, perfectly fine with plenty of 450WHP blasts on 93. No scaring or adverse wear. If someone needs them let me know.



My Head. Will look much better after it is hot tanked.






Dirty Turbo, no more breather nonsense to pollute it. Turbo has ZERO shaft play, thank you ball bearing FP quality.






My S1 Cams, treated me well on my Stock Turbo and FP Red but it is time to go bigger. These things just drop in and made a big improvement on my Stock Turbo and helped the Red as best as they could. They are good for about 25WHP on a Stock Turbo. They are now for sale for $300 if anyone wants them.

Sean@Iveytune

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the Kind words. I have tuned a lot of evos over the years and the problems were very few, I am glad you had 5 yrs + without issue on our cals.

Sean

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

Engine Build Update. I visited DOGBOX and Alex had the pistons and rods out already



Manley is great and local to me (Wall NJ). Notice my stock pistons and rods in the top right. Not bent thank god. Alex had pointed out that even though the 4G63 is a very strong unit one quick hit of detonation can turn a rod into a banana and then send it through the block. Alex recommended me building it for longevity and he has saved my motor a couple of time so far since I have known him. thumbup:



Stock sized & 9.0-1. Keep it simple and as close to stock design as possible, keep your engine together.





Alex had pointed out that clearances are key; he measured the clearances and filed the rings to an extreme accuracy. He had a micrometer that reads to the 4th decimal place so fitment is extremely accurate. Amazing.



Same for the rods, keep that engine together.



Stock vs. Manley. Big difference. These will hold a lot of power.



A ported Throttle Body Courtesy of blackmamba23, it is 65MM and he will make you one with upgraded Milspec Shaft seals to eliminate boost leaks.



OEM Only



Progress.









Alex had pointed out that the IX OEM belt has Kevlar in it vs the VIII belt which costs half as much and doesn't have Kevlar. It is wise to not cheap out on a timing belt on an interference engine.



New filter design, we shall see. Some people say this is the highest flowing filter you can get, others state that they are restrictive and cost me power. IDK.






GSC S2 Cams




VSR Installed.






After it is done Ill post a video of the Idle and the tune after that. Can’t wait until Alex is done.

6spdlegend

iTrader: (2)

awesome, subscribed!!

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

Yay fans!!!!!!!!!!!!

ronaldo9

iTrader: (2)

Love this setup, hope to build something similar to this when the time comes.

hgp11hockey

iTrader: (2)

Wow looks like very quality work. How much to do something like this

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

It most certainly is. You can't just slap an engine together and call it a day. Alex can really turn a wrench. To get work done you have to contact Alex. It's worth every penny and he is simply a perfectionist.

danameisoj

iTrader: (8)

drop in build at 100k? interesting.. sub'd for results. looks good man!

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

It's far more complicated than that. I suggest you reach out to Alex and he can go over it with you. There is a lot more to it than simply dropping in pistons and rods I'll guarantee that.

Jwhalen07

iTrader: (6)

Jeez, never had manleys next to a stock assembly. Unreal how thin wall Manley's wrist pins are.

Looks fun!

danameisoj

iTrader: (8)

I know what's involved in building an engine . What we refer as a "drop in " build is the engine is still in the car and no machine work is performed other than a hone.

according to your pictures . that's whats bring done to your car.

usually what's preached on these forums is for this to be done on a lower mileage engine . but lately ive seen a lot of drop in style build with higher mileage blocks as the blocks are still in service ranges.

obviously your tolerances were in spec for him to have continued with the build.

dsmchiz

Really Great looking work! Good luck with the rest of the build!

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

*****UPDATE*******

Dog Box has just finished my Evo last Saturday and I have been driving it to get some miles on the new internals.



Very clean engine bay now but I need a vented catch can, anyone?

First thoughts.

1. Car starts and drives fine, idle is down on notch in terms of being as stable as before, nothing big as far as I am concerned.

2. There is some more lag but the car REALLY wants to pull away under boost. The only way I can describe it is that the balloon you need to fill with air before you have power is now bigger and more powerful. Instead of a solid hit it's a surge or a rush that carries a bigger shove. Car just wants to run away up top even at part throttle, extremely noticeable it'll be a beast when I tune it.

3. Sheet metal intake manifolds resonate with sound at about 15% throttle, so I have a new noise. Kinda sounds like a bad TOB.

4. I think I am still losing coolant, must be my radiator.

5. AMS VSR has no EGR provision, CEL's until I get it flashed.

6. I need a vented catch can for sure.

Below are a couple of videos of my idle. Remember that my car was tune for S1 cams on a stock bottom end, I now have 9.0-1 compression ratio, GSC S2 Cams w/springs & retainers, AMS VSR, and a ported throttle body. To be honest it idles as well as my EVO VIII Did with old school HKS 272's did. I am sure tuning will fix it.

NY Black momba

iTrader: (4)

^^^ sounds good very well detailed build thread