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Post exact weights of weight reduction you have done!

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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:03 AM
  #1096  
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^^^Haha!! I bet she was pissed! 5:40 am?! Do you ever sleep??
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 07:55 AM
  #1097  
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Originally Posted by evodan2004
get a shipping scale. accurate to .01 is good. you can find them for under 150.00. i forget who makes mine but its .01 and up to 400lbs. they come with calibration weights and stuff.

your scale is great for pranks though. a long story short my G/F was doing a diet. she is 5,4 and weighed around 130lbs. she wanted to ''tone'' up and drop 10lbs. i did not like that idea at all. i feel she is perfect looking. so when she hit 125 on are bathroom scale basically i took it apart and rigged it up. it still started at 0 but when she would step on it it would read a good 20lbs more then she really was. she bought it for a good 3 weeks. hahahahah. then she figured it out. i didnt get any for a while. but it was worth it. she is still under 130 but not below 125. i think she is stronger then me now though with all the gym and fitness.
Oh ok I'll look into that tonight when I get home. Man your wrong for that one my wife would be freaking out if I did that to her haha
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 08:04 AM
  #1098  
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Shipping scale used.

Stock IX steering wheel without airbag. This does include airbag trim ring and bolt that holds steering wheel on. 4 pounds 6.2oz.
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 08:26 AM
  #1099  
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I have a 75lb postal scale I got off Amazon for around $35 or so...works great, very accurate!
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 10:01 AM
  #1100  
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Stock bare O2 housing: 6 pounds 12.2oz.
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 10:27 AM
  #1101  
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I think I'll aim for the postal scale lol either way it's cutting into the Evo funds haha
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 12:13 PM
  #1102  
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What do you guys think about eliminating the cross member and running the front motor mount bracket right off the core support? (core support is tubular/chromoly from rail to rail). All the other motor mounts are Torque solutions.

I talked about it with someone else, their thoughts were as long as the core support is strong enough, which it is, it should pose no problem. I would agree.

Any other input would be great.

Last edited by badev0; Apr 3, 2012 at 12:25 PM.
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #1103  
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Originally Posted by badev0
What do you guys think about eliminating the cross member and running the front motor mount bracket right off the core support? (core support is tubular/chromoly from rail to rail). All the other motor mounts are Torque solutions.

I talked about it with someone else, their thoughts were as long as the core support is strong enough, which it is, it should pose no problem. I would agree.

Any other input would be great.

Umm, interesting in seeing other's opinions on this...
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #1104  
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Originally Posted by B.J.@ToxicFab
Umm, interesting in seeing other's opinions on this...
Why even run the front motor mount at all? saves the weight of the mount and the bar the mount attaches to. 3 torque solutions mounts should be able to handle the load.

just my opinion though...
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #1105  
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Originally Posted by griceiv
Why even run the front motor mount at all? saves the weight of the mount and the bar the mount attaches to. 3 torque solutions mounts should be able to handle the load.

just my opinion though...
So you think the motor at full TQ depends more on the rear mount then front motor mount for the roll affect? It'll be easy to fab my own solid mount that goes right to the factory bracket that's bolted to the trans.
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:19 PM
  #1106  
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do NOT go removing either the front cross member or rear trans mount. leave them. get a BR or AMS front cross member and AVID or TS motor mounts.
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:26 PM
  #1107  
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Originally Posted by evodan2004
do NOT go removing either the front cross member or rear trans mount. leave them. get a BR or AMS front cross member and AVID or TS motor mounts.
It would have all 4 motor mounts, front roll stopper being solid made of 1-1/4 chromoly to the tubular core support. Rest of the mounts are TS. Essentially only loosing bracing from k-member to core support. Details on why you think this is a bad idea?

Scott
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:27 PM
  #1108  
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Originally Posted by badev0
It would have all 4 motor mounts, front roll stopper being solid made of 1-1/4 chromoly to the tubular core support. Rest of the mounts are TS. Essentially only loosing bracing from k-member to core support. Details on why you think this is a bad idea?

Scott
Your idea might be worth looking into. I was just speaking of removing mounts without some sort of replacement.
Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:30 PM
  #1109  
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Originally Posted by evodan2004
Your idea might be worth looking into. I was just speaking of removing mounts without some sort of replacement.
Yeah for sure. I'll never remove a mount.
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 08:09 AM
  #1110  
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The load will be the same on that core support scott, the stock north south bar, bolts in the same location, where you are going to be placing the new extension piece.
IMO , there are no ill effects of doing it the way I had mentioned.

FEA is required to give empirical values to my statement though.


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