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If you do full boltons, everyone knows you need to upgrade the fuel system. Except you're in here telling people that no, they don't need to upgrade the fuel system, all they gotta do is install a fuel pulse damper on the fuel rail.
To be generous, maybe with the way you drive your car, that is actually true for you personally. If you never got on it and actually pushed the car then you might never have a problem.
I don't know what kind of music you listen to, or for how long etc. It does seem to me that you haven't given much thought to how other people use their "big" stereos and what kinds of music they might listen to, or for how long.
Installing a capacitor doesn't fix the inadequacy if the electrical system. It only changes how the user experiences that inadequacy.
Last edited by Biggiesacks; Dec 1, 2022 at 07:44 AM.
Clueless and arrogant - I explained you don't get it. Hang a alternator the size of a washtub on your car if you want. But don't conflict physics or mislead others. At 12 volts 2F cap has 288 Watt seconds. A lot of help to a 12V 80A 960W alternator .
If you can only use the sound system with the engine running then yeah you'll need an upgraded alternator. I've used caps before but now I have a 3 power sports/mini batteries (AV professionally installed before i bought the car) ... I like how easier it is to tuck batteries inside the fenders, theyre also way cheaper. I dont listen to earth shaking music anymore, I'm so over that. I'm still chasing rattles listening to orchestra music lol
I also use one of my cars to power my house after hurricane black outs. i definitely need an bigger alternator for that lol
If you can only use the sound system with the engine running then yeah you'll need an upgraded alternator. I've used caps before but now I have a 3 power sports/mini batteries (AV professionally installed before i bought the car) ... I like how easier it is to tuck batteries inside the fenders, theyre also way cheaper. I dont listen to earth shaking music anymore, I'm so over that. I'm still chasing rattles listening to orchestra music lol
I also use one of my cars to power my house after hurricane black outs. i definitely need an bigger alternator for that lol
If you're talking about hooking up a car to shore power for the stereo, then that's kind of outside the bounds of normal car audio. Otherwise all power comes from the alternator. Really the big three is meant to work together. You need battery + alternator + conductors. Lots of battery without alternator is like trying to fill a swimming pool with a hand pump (extreme example to demonstrate point). On top of that the swimming pool is leaking water in proportion to how much you are using it. You need a pump big enough to, over time and usage, keep the pool full. MitsuATB's capacitor is a 5 gallon bucket you can occasionally kick over into the pool, but you still gotta fill that back up too.
If you're talking about hooking up a car to shore power for the stereo, then that's kind of outside the bounds of normal car audio. Otherwise all power comes from the alternator. Really the big three is meant to work together. You need battery + alternator + conductors. Lots of battery without alternator is like trying to fill a swimming pool with a hand pump (extreme example to demonstrate point). On top of that the swimming pool is leaking water in proportion to how much you are using it. You need a pump big enough to, over time and usage, keep the pool full. MitsuATB's capacitor is a 5 gallon bucket you can occasionally kick over into the pool, but you still gotta fill that back up too.
Well he could be the type that plays the pop-chicka-boom music... thats not very demanding at all. I have old bass-test samples when I was playing "sound engineer" with my audi. these test samples are A LOT more demanding. non-electrical aspects of the car was too annoying to address
Well he could be the type that plays the pop-chicka-boom music... thats not very demanding at all. I have old bass-test samples when I was playing "sound engineer" with my audi. these test samples are A LOT more demanding. non-electrical aspects of the car was too annoying to address
I tried to explain that with the car analogy and the fuel system. Yeah some people buy sports cars and drive them like a granny to cars and coffee, others take them to HPDE etc. It's not the job of the installer to pigeon hold the customer into a specific use case. It's my job to ensure the quality of the install and that the product performs as specified regardless of what they listen to, or for how long, or how loud.
I can't hear much over the exhaust anyway. 3" Buscher SCCA glass pack with 100 cell cat. I assumed engine is running, alternators produce A/C not D/C. Rectifier bridge changes that to pulsed D/C and "shudder" the Caps and battery smooth that out. Cap can store a lot more than 288 Ws if it has a step up voltage system on it. 12V can't hurt you? Hook some jumper cables to that "Big Sack" and let me know how that goes.
I can't hear much over the exhaust anyway. 3" Buscher SCCA glass pack with 100 cell cat. I assumed engine is running, alternators produce A/C not D/C. Rectifier bridge changes that to pulsed D/C and "shudder" the Caps and battery smooth that out. Cap can store a lot more than 288 Ws if it has a step up voltage system on it. 12V can't hurt you? Hook some jumper cables to that "Big Sack" and let me know how that goes.
Mitsuatb
Dude what are you even doing here? Have you ever even wrenched on a car?
It's painfully obvious you don't know anything about car audio, but now I'm wondering if you have ever even handled a battery or done electrical in a car period.
P.S. My last name is Sacks, its not euphemism for my *****.
Cutchfield is trying to SELL you something. They are also idiots. They want to sell you something for high profit and have less likelyhood of a return. They do not care about your project or the result.
20-something years ago I worked as a installer at circuit city, and the point was exactly that. Sell the customer something that will work easy, and turn a profit. They shouldn't want to return it. It does not matter if it is optimized or even right, as long as they don't bring it back. I went on to do all of the installation and fabrication work for the custom stereo's of my local NFL team (when I used to live in WNY) the Buffalo Bills. I did the stereo's in all of their trucks, until I finished college and got a job as an engineer with an OEM. Now I do the electrical diagnostic work when we get parts that don't do what they should right at the factory!
You are right I shouldn't be here too advanced. You don't even understand my post.
I have an RS, only way it got a stereo was if I installed it.
I have nothing to prove to you. Show that I am wrong with math or physics. If not, just shut up about it.
It's really not so simple as "lets do some numbers". There needs to be context. So lets get some examples going.
This Alpine S series amp is alpines cheapest offering in a whole system solution. Super low cost / budget type of setup, certainly not "Big". I personally have no experience with this amp, just went to alpine as my consumer grade pick, and looked for the cheapest all in one.
60watt RMS x 4
300watt RMS x 1
Good amps will be upper 80s % efficient, no clue what this amp is but lets be generous and call it 90% efficient. So we are talking approximately 600 watts RMS total. There will be other losses, but lets keep it simple.
So for a 1 farad capacitor at 14.5 volts you get .5 * 210.25 = 105.125 joules of energy. So lets convert that:
From Pg. 2
So 105.125 joules is equal to 105.125 watt seconds. That's 1 watt for 105.125 seconds or 105.125 watts for 1 second.
Let us not forget though that automotive electronics do not operate all the way down to 0 volts. They have a cut off voltage, and they will stop working below that voltage. I tried to find specs for this amp but couldn't, I want to say probably below 10 volts this thing wont turn on, but since I can't find the spec lets call it 8 volts. I don't think the evo even has injector latency scaling for below 8 volts so I think it's a pretty fair number for our approximations.
That means we need to subtract all the energy in the cap from below 8 volts, as the equipment won't be able to use it. To do that we will calculate the energy for 1 farad capacitor charged to 8 volts and subtract it from our first calculation.
.5 * 64 = 32 joules or 32 watt seconds. Our original number 105.125 - 32 = 73.125 watt seconds.
So our amp pulls 600 watts RMS. That means with 73.125 watt seconds this capacitor can meet the RMS (Just RMS, not even peak) power for a little over 1/10 of a second.
Last time I checked, songs lasted whole seconds and people tend to listen to more than just one.
Cap is not limited to 14.5 volts. 24V 3.5 farad $63. Price a battery and an alternator and do what's best for you. $95 8 Farad. $150 800 amp 100 Farad.
Cap is not limited to 14.5 volts. 24V 3.5 farad $63. Price a battery and an alternator and do what's best for you. $95 8 Farad. $150 800 amp 100 Farad.
It's like you're trying to prove how much you don't know/understand car audio / electronics.
It doesn't matter what the capacitor is rated for, the car runs on a 12 volt DC system. Not 24 volts, not 48....... 12.
This discussion has run its course....
/thread
Last edited by Biggiesacks; Dec 13, 2022 at 09:03 AM.
Dec 1, 2022, 07:21 AM
