Jay644

iTrader: (7)

I'm in the process of getting all of my audio components together. For those of you that know about Elemental Designs I have and will have the following from them:

(2) 13kv.2's D4 ~300 to 450 RMS
(1) eD NINe.1 1200w RMS x 1 @ 12.5V
**note: subs will be ran @ ~800-900w RMS

(1) eD 6000v.2's componet speakers ~100w RMS
(1) eD NINe.2 100W RMS x 2 @ 12.5V

All this with an Alpine iDA x100.

So I'll be running about 1100w or 1200w if I decide to push the subs. I know the NINe.1 is overkill for these subs but I just wanted some headroom for future upgrades.

I have read of a few that haven't had any problems with 1000w RMS, so I'm thinking I may be somewhat okay with the power I'll be using. I also would like to know of anyone who has performed the Big Three upgrade (0-4awg wire from battery (+) to alt (+), battery (-) to chassis (-), and engine to chassis (-)).

On a side note I would highly reccomend Elemental Designs to anyone who wants high quality audio components without giving an arm and a leg.

Jasil

iTrader: (22)

A true 1000w rms will dim every light in your car when the bass hits on any music! My system was 943W RMS and at night I couldn't play it halfway the dimming was so noticable. During the day it wasn't so bad, but voltage would drop to 11.75v at times.

Good luck there are formulas for this online if you search for them. Upgrade your alternator and you will be fine.

matt55

iTrader: (12)

NINe.1 = Max Current Draw 130 Amps @ 64% efficient

So 14v x 100amps =1400watts
1400watts x .64 (efficienty) =896 watts
12v x 120amps =1400 watts
1400watts x .64(efficienty) = 896 watts

So you will be drawing 100amps to 130amps on a heavy bass notes

Evo's Alt's are around 80-90 amp out put (IIRC).

FYI , for years I ran +6000 watts system in my S-10 with the stock 100amp ALT...........
and 4 yellow tops . The way I looked at it was , the Amp's got juice from the Batts and the ALT recharged the Batts on down time .

Jay644

iTrader: (7)

^^ Very good information, thanks. I suppose I'll begin looking into a high output alternator then. This seems to be the only good solution. I thought our alt. had atleast 110 amps of output, guess those were just the ralliarts or some other model.

What if I were to keep the rms power at under 700w? Would this be more in line with what the alternator can handle?

matt55

iTrader: (12)

High output Alt is going to run alot of $300 plus if you can find any .
BTW 90 amps output on stock , linky...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...volutions.html

Some thoughts...
Our car rattle with out a big system , imagine it with 2 good 12's and 1kw...
(1 10'' kicker L5 and 150w make my dash rattle to much for my taste)

If I really wanted to do a bigger system , I would skip a H.O. Alt .
Run 4ga + from front batt to trunk , add a gell cell batt in trunk , fuse BOTH batts 18" or less from each Batt + , ground rear batt . F capators , F a Alt .

Weight (LBS)
Do you really want 150lbs extra riding around in your trunk ?

Space in trunk ..
For the 2 12's sealed your box should be about 14''x28"x17" (1.3-1.4 cuft per sub)
OR for a proted box 14"x32"x22" (about 2cuft per sub)

If your do make a ported box and face it to the rear of the car (corner loading for a db gain) it might very well be to big and trap the sound in the trunk not letting it get to the cabin .....


I think the simplest/cost effective/wieght effictive way would be ....
A good Batt under the hood
500-700watts of power
1 12'' sub
and a high amp/speakers

evane

iTrader: (13)

why don't you run a capacitor?

MrSwa

If you do get a capacitor, get the right size. I had a 1 farad on two rockford 10" running ~400W rms each on my old car and the headlights would still dim when turned up loud. I went through one alternator as well. I could sit and watch the charge gauge rise and fall with the music.

BrandNew

Even those HO alternators can be trouble sometimes...

You gotta pay attention to the ratings.. Most of them put out close to stock at IDLE, so when your sitting there at the light, you'll still see your headlights dimming on the guys bumper in front of you !!

A friend of mine who has this badass turbo cavalier installed an HO alternator. He actually had to go through & raise his idle a few hundred so the alternator would actually work good. His was still like stock at idle...

matt55

iTrader: (12)

At my old job they did a test with there db truck

32 1/4 farad capacitor's on 8 800 watt amps = 0 db gain and same Voltage as before with no cap's .

Ive use them and found they were no help keeping the Voltage up also .

Capacitor's discharge very quickly < 1 sec

matt55

iTrader: (12)

Very good piont , IIRC they rate most Atl's output @2000 rpm

Jay644

iTrader: (7)

In most cases they wont really be helping anything, they actually will add more strain on your car's electrical system because it is constanly charging and discharging.

Jay644

iTrader: (7)

I think I'll save myself money and just use about 500 for the subs and 100 for the fronts, 600w total rms.

I figure since our alt is 90a and maybe worst case scenario the car accessories demand 40% power so:

90a x .40 = 36a available

power(amps) x volts @ idle = watts ->> 36a x 14.4 = 518w available

I'll probably just get a yellow top to go along with everything. I've been reading up on realmofexcursion.com very knowledgable audiophiles on there.

Jasil

iTrader: (22)

There are huge write ups by audiophole EE's that agree with this 100%. Caps are 100% a waste of time. HO alternator and a good batter end of story.