opinions on components
#1
opinions on components
Ok so I will be using a JL 300/4 to power a set of components in the front and coaxials in the rear.. I really do not have anywhere local to "listen" so I wanted to hear someopinions on what fits and whats sounds good, since I will be buying them online most likely..
I don't want to spend a ton so I am looking in the mid-to-high end hopefully under 300 for the components if possible and it would be nice to have the coaxs in the back the same brand..
Alpine type r seems to have decent enough reviews and are well within price range, any one have any other opinions??
Will be running off of an Avic Z3 and most likely a line driver to bring the voltage up going into the amps..
I don't want to spend a ton so I am looking in the mid-to-high end hopefully under 300 for the components if possible and it would be nice to have the coaxs in the back the same brand..
Alpine type r seems to have decent enough reviews and are well within price range, any one have any other opinions??
Will be running off of an Avic Z3 and most likely a line driver to bring the voltage up going into the amps..
#2
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Its really unfortunate that your unable to listen to the speakers before a purchase since everyones ear has a different taste IMO.
The Type R components have a pretty decent sound for the price.
I would look into some entry level Focal's even though those might be right at the max on what your willing to spend.
I personally have the mid level Diamond audio components, I had to put a .25" spacer in the door for window clearance but the sound is good for the music I listen too.
I'm sure that there will be plenty of opinions that others will post so listen to what others say and make your assesment because i know that i'm not the greatest when trying to push a paticular product .
Good luck
The Type R components have a pretty decent sound for the price.
I would look into some entry level Focal's even though those might be right at the max on what your willing to spend.
I personally have the mid level Diamond audio components, I had to put a .25" spacer in the door for window clearance but the sound is good for the music I listen too.
I'm sure that there will be plenty of opinions that others will post so listen to what others say and make your assesment because i know that i'm not the greatest when trying to push a paticular product .
Good luck
#3
Thanks, its just that anywhere that has speakers to listen to usually something is wrong because it's philly and ghetto everywhere and no one cares to fix, it is also usually in a huge room and sounds like crap no matter what, or there are different scources of music and is pointless to make an accurate decision based on that..
I have a diamond audo sub in my car that I like but I was told by a friend that the X over on those leave much to be desired..
I just want something that will sound good with the amp and won't give me a whole lot of trouble when trying to install really..
I have a diamond audo sub in my car that I like but I was told by a friend that the X over on those leave much to be desired..
I just want something that will sound good with the amp and won't give me a whole lot of trouble when trying to install really..
Its really unfortunate that your unable to listen to the speakers before a purchase since everyones ear has a different taste IMO.
The Type R components have a pretty decent sound for the price.
I would look into some entry level Focal's even though those might be right at the max on what your willing to spend.
I personally have the mid level Diamond audio components, I had to put a .25" spacer in the door for window clearance but the sound is good for the music I listen too.
I'm sure that there will be plenty of opinions that others will post so listen to what others say and make your assesment because i know that i'm not the greatest when trying to push a paticular product .
Good luck
The Type R components have a pretty decent sound for the price.
I would look into some entry level Focal's even though those might be right at the max on what your willing to spend.
I personally have the mid level Diamond audio components, I had to put a .25" spacer in the door for window clearance but the sound is good for the music I listen too.
I'm sure that there will be plenty of opinions that others will post so listen to what others say and make your assesment because i know that i'm not the greatest when trying to push a paticular product .
Good luck
#4
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yeah in your price range i would go with alpine, pioneer, or something like that...i personally like the sound of pioneer speakers...always have...but others sound good too...pioneer is just a good choice to me cuz it's not too expensive and sounds good and is reliable.....i mean of course higher priced stuff is gonna sound better...even the upper pioneer stuff...but i kinda stick in the middle range as it's most affordable with decent sound
#5
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hey Pete!
im running Dayton RS mids wid a mdf baffle in the doors with some seas Neo tweets biamplified by a diamond audio amp. the dayton mids play very good bass for the price and fit almost perfectly in the evo door.
use your JL to bridge to two channel and just power the fronts- ef the rear!
spend the 300 on the front- don't worry about the rear.
CDT has good budget comps, JL i wasn't the biggest fan of.
pioneer premier comps are awesome but im not sure about mounting depth and such
im running Dayton RS mids wid a mdf baffle in the doors with some seas Neo tweets biamplified by a diamond audio amp. the dayton mids play very good bass for the price and fit almost perfectly in the evo door.
use your JL to bridge to two channel and just power the fronts- ef the rear!
spend the 300 on the front- don't worry about the rear.
CDT has good budget comps, JL i wasn't the biggest fan of.
pioneer premier comps are awesome but im not sure about mounting depth and such
Last edited by igo4bmx; Jan 31, 2009 at 04:07 PM.
#6
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hey Pete!
im running Dayton RS mids wid a mdf baffle in the doors with some seas Neo tweets biamplified by a diamond audio amp. the dayton mids play very good bass for the price and fit almost perfectly in the evo door.
use your JL to bridge to two channel and just power the fronts- ef the rear!
spend the 300 on the front- don't worry about the rear.
CDT has good budget comps, JL i wasn't the biggest fan of.
pioneer premier comps are awesome but im not sure about mounting depth and such
im running Dayton RS mids wid a mdf baffle in the doors with some seas Neo tweets biamplified by a diamond audio amp. the dayton mids play very good bass for the price and fit almost perfectly in the evo door.
use your JL to bridge to two channel and just power the fronts- ef the rear!
spend the 300 on the front- don't worry about the rear.
CDT has good budget comps, JL i wasn't the biggest fan of.
pioneer premier comps are awesome but im not sure about mounting depth and such
It sounds like the same way mine is setup
#7
hey Pete!
im running Dayton RS mids wid a mdf baffle in the doors with some seas Neo tweets biamplified by a diamond audio amp. the dayton mids play very good bass for the price and fit almost perfectly in the evo door.
use your JL to bridge to two channel and just power the fronts- ef the rear!
spend the 300 on the front- don't worry about the rear.
CDT has good budget comps, JL i wasn't the biggest fan of.
pioneer premier comps are awesome but im not sure about mounting depth and such
im running Dayton RS mids wid a mdf baffle in the doors with some seas Neo tweets biamplified by a diamond audio amp. the dayton mids play very good bass for the price and fit almost perfectly in the evo door.
use your JL to bridge to two channel and just power the fronts- ef the rear!
spend the 300 on the front- don't worry about the rear.
CDT has good budget comps, JL i wasn't the biggest fan of.
pioneer premier comps are awesome but im not sure about mounting depth and such
I can get the top of the line premiers for 230 shown here..
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ies/TS-C720PRS
Although I was thinking of keeping speakers in the back just for rear passengers to hear some highs I guess I could do without them, but I would certainly need the single set of components to fill the car from the front..And with poineers only being rated for 50-60 watts RMS should I really bridge the amp to 150 watts?? I know the 300/4 is a pretty stoudt 4 channel amp..
Also, these can be had for only 107 a pair and these are the next step down from the PRS series, what do you think I should do based on cost vs. performance?? I am by no means wealthy
These were rated vey highly in car audio mag for the $$
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...emier/TS-D720C
If you want to lend a hand when it comes install time that would be awesome as I am not all that experienced..I will provide craft beer of your choice
I basically need to do everything still but I should at least have the Z3 in there and power and rca cables ran..
Also and more importantly, will these even fit in the evo doors?
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#8
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The Premier PRS components are great...well atleast the mids are. The tweets are a bit bright for my taste. We stock them at all times. I'm a huge fan of Focal's new entry level line (Access). Price is great and in your budget. I'd definitely look into those.
Word of advice...be very careful with audio purchases online. Vendors are selling lots of B stock, refurbs, and clones without telling you. Online stores like "woofersetc.com" and other similar to them have been caught by manufacturers selling Taiwanese knock offs. I know it's hard since the price is right.
Word of advice...be very careful with audio purchases online. Vendors are selling lots of B stock, refurbs, and clones without telling you. Online stores like "woofersetc.com" and other similar to them have been caught by manufacturers selling Taiwanese knock offs. I know it's hard since the price is right.
#9
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Definitely ditch the rears. If you don't already have the 300/4 get the 300/2. Get the Premier PRS (or Polk SRs, maybe a little over budget, but completely worth it) and hell yeah feed them 150rms. Actual power going to the speakers won't be 150w. Those ratings are generated using a test tone at a constant level. Those components (probably most) will take a 300/2 (300/4 bridged) playing music all day.
#10
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James,
I can get the top of the line premiers for 230 shown here..
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ies/TS-C720PRS
Although I was thinking of keeping speakers in the back just for rear passengers to hear some highs I guess I could do without them, but I would certainly need the single set of components to fill the car from the front..And with poineers only being rated for 50-60 watts RMS should I really bridge the amp to 150 watts?? I know the 300/4 is a pretty stoudt 4 channel amp..
Also, these can be had for only 107 a pair and these are the next step down from the PRS series, what do you think I should do based on cost vs. performance?? I am by no means wealthy
These were rated vey highly in car audio mag for the $$
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...emier/TS-D720C
If you want to lend a hand when it comes install time that would be awesome as I am not all that experienced..I will provide craft beer of your choice
I basically need to do everything still but I should at least have the Z3 in there and power and rca cables ran..
Also and more importantly, will these even fit in the evo doors?
I can get the top of the line premiers for 230 shown here..
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ies/TS-C720PRS
Although I was thinking of keeping speakers in the back just for rear passengers to hear some highs I guess I could do without them, but I would certainly need the single set of components to fill the car from the front..And with poineers only being rated for 50-60 watts RMS should I really bridge the amp to 150 watts?? I know the 300/4 is a pretty stoudt 4 channel amp..
Also, these can be had for only 107 a pair and these are the next step down from the PRS series, what do you think I should do based on cost vs. performance?? I am by no means wealthy
These were rated vey highly in car audio mag for the $$
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...emier/TS-D720C
If you want to lend a hand when it comes install time that would be awesome as I am not all that experienced..I will provide craft beer of your choice
I basically need to do everything still but I should at least have the Z3 in there and power and rca cables ran..
Also and more importantly, will these even fit in the evo doors?
Do a search cuz im Lazy lol the you can fit i think 3/4 MDF baffles on the doors themselves so it raises the mounting depth of the mid. my daytons are about 3.22" inches in depth and the premiers are less than 3. the tweets will have to be mounted creatively - i used metal strap to mount my tweets. forget rear fill! mine are power by the HU only and only on if i have passengers.
Of course i can help!
Definitely ditch the rears. If you don't already have the 300/4 get the 300/2. Get the Premier PRS (or Polk SRs, maybe a little over budget, but completely worth it) and hell yeah feed them 150rms. Actual power going to the speakers won't be 150w. Those ratings are generated using a test tone at a constant level. Those components (probably most) will take a 300/2 (300/4 bridged) playing music all day.
Agreed.
#11
those should fit.
Do a search cuz im Lazy lol the you can fit i think 3/4 MDF baffles on the doors themselves so it raises the mounting depth of the mid. my daytons are about 3.22" inches in depth and the premiers are less than 3. the tweets will have to be mounted creatively - i used metal strap to mount my tweets. forget rear fill! mine are power by the HU only and only on if i have passengers.
Of course i can help!
Agreed.
Do a search cuz im Lazy lol the you can fit i think 3/4 MDF baffles on the doors themselves so it raises the mounting depth of the mid. my daytons are about 3.22" inches in depth and the premiers are less than 3. the tweets will have to be mounted creatively - i used metal strap to mount my tweets. forget rear fill! mine are power by the HU only and only on if i have passengers.
Of course i can help!
Agreed.
I'm leaning towards poineer prs or going the cheaper route with the alpine type r's..I'll see how $$ I have to spend after I get everything installed.
#12
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Thanks for the insight..I think I may just run stock rears powered by the HU and control them with the fader if I have to, I think the Z3 has a crossover I can use for them as well if I really wanted to..The 300/4 deal was sold before I could buy it so I am still looking for another one..I guess I can also use a 300/2 if I have to..Would like to get one or the other since I already have the 500/1 for the sub so if anyone knows of one for sale lmk
I'm leaning towards poineer prs or going the cheaper route with the alpine type r's..I'll see how $$ I have to spend after I get everything installed.
I'm leaning towards poineer prs or going the cheaper route with the alpine type r's..I'll see how $$ I have to spend after I get everything installed.
#13
Yeah I am doing it myself but I am sure I will be buying other crap too, and depending on how much I can get one of these 300/4's now.. I also want a new fuse, possibly a distribution block, another set of RCA's, and so on and so fourth.. Basically I am going to do the components last and get everything installed first and wiring out of the way..Still need to do the alarm as well
#14
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iTrader: (17)
Yeah I am doing it myself but I am sure I will be buying other crap too, and depending on how much I can get one of these 300/4's now.. I also want a new fuse, possibly a distribution block, another set of RCA's, and so on and so fourth.. Basically I am going to do the components last and get everything installed first and wiring out of the way..Still need to do the alarm as well
what do you exactly need? I have so many wires out my *** at home from car projects i prolly have what you need.