jb103080

iTrader: (1)

word he might not be your friend anymore after that.

t mac

iTrader: (3)

haha no worries, I wont get him fired...he gets me way too many toys to ruin that friendship!

Yes, he can get the discount for me, the model of sub I have is olllldddd, im not really an audio guy, but ive had this laying around for a few years, it's a sony xs-L101ps. I was content for a while with the w505, but the sound system leaves a lot to be desired from, even for me, I had this laying around so I figured what the hell...

I should have been more clear, I know the reputable brands, but the exact model # is what I'm looking for, bc I'm not entirely sure on which one to pick say out of a group of RF amps?

GPTourer

Just get the most you can afford. You can bridge a 2 channel amp to run the sub, or buy a mono 1 channel amp to run it. Either way, you are paying for the amount of watts the amp can produce. I don't think RF makes an amp for $150, or I don't know what your discount would bring one of their amps down too. I worked there a long time ago, but I can't quite remember the margins on amps.

Like, how much could you get this one for?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1170289781181

GPTourer

OR this one.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1202650466597

jb103080

iTrader: (1)

this one might work for him but i don't think the pioneer would. my cousin was getting like 40 to 50 percent off that price. so that amp wouldn't be too much.

SASD209

iTrader: (1)

OK, moved to the appropriate forum.

jb103080

iTrader: (1)

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1202649210874
here's an alpine. it puts out 300 rms at 4 ohms which is what your sub is if that's the correct model you gave. i looked for an rf amp and they're pretty pricey. the rf one that GPtourer posted would also work but i think you'd have to bridge it. the mono is straight up with negative to negative and positive to positive.

GPTourer

Yeah, I would go with that Alpine if it fits your budget. Bridging is no big deal if you decide to go that route, you just use the positive of one channel and the negative of the other in most cases if the amp is bridgable and most are, but yeah a dedicated mono amp for one sub is probably the best way for you to go.

t mac

iTrader: (3)

thanks guys, The price on the RF is $97, and the Alpine $115, so not bad at all! will prob go with the alpine

...I suppose while I've got this thread going, I've got a couple other questions if you guys dont mind...

I have the 10" sub like I said, and a simple single sub box, as well as the alpine w505, and the wiring already done to the back of the car for a single sub...What I want is something easily removed if I go to the track or need to fill the trunk up, and something that doesnt slosh around in turns..

so what do you guys suggest is the best way to mount all this? where to put the box for the best sound, where to mount the amp?

Also, while I'm at it, I was thinking about replacing the door speakers now, nothing too extravagent, just something to where the bass, road noise, exhaust note, wind, ect doesnt dround out the actual sound...
So what i need for that is a 4 channel amp, and 4 door speakers, 6.5" (need some adaptor plate?), or 6.75" that should fit perfectly? my HU wont power them will they?

jb103080

iTrader: (1)

well I can't really tell you how to mount it. when I had my 4 channel amp mounted they put a piece of board mounted to the metal cross members behind the plastic panel. you could find some kind of fasteners and screw it to that. that's just an option. as far as the door speakers the options are endless. pick a budget 4 the speakers and amp and we can help a little better. if you go with components you would do better with an amp. you can also run regular coaxial speakers of the headunit. hope this helps a little.

t mac

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the input...

so can I mount the amp to the sub box itself, or is that prob not the best of ideas?

Here are the speakers I was looking at (figured I'd keep the whole setup alpine minus the sub)
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1199494646605

the specs on my HU are: Power Output: 50W x 4 High Power Amplifier ...link....
( http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod.../P1&view=Specs )

I noticed the speakers are 80w max, would I be better off getting something that has a closer power output to what my HU is putting out? something like a 50-60w rms max? IE these: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1166234894507

If at all possible, I would like to avoid the amp, but will just replacing the speakers themselves with aftermarket coax speakers really improve my sound quality that much? I've read that just getting an amp for the stock speakers can drastically improve the sound, would that be a better way than replacing the speakers?

thanks again in advance

*edit: I would like little to no rattling from the door speakers, my trunk has already been dyno-matted...I've never really done any audio upgrades besides HU's before, so I'm not really sure what to expect from any type of setup. AND if I just replace the speakers, no amp, all I have to do is swap the old speakers with the new ones correct? no extra wiring ect..

I also saw these, component 50W pioneers: Would these need an amp bc they are 50w rms, or is that typically for ones that run 100+? again, whatever you guys think would mesh the best together, avoiding another amp if possible.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1197678618335

Sorry if nothing that I am saying makes any sense!

skyblas

get a gd and reliable one
fosgate should do the job
i have one for over 10 years in my astina
and its still working

jb103080

iTrader: (1)

i'd hate to say get these and not those on the door speakers because you might not like one set as good as another. make sure you go and check out those speakers and see that you like the sound before you buy. i'd say out of the choices you posted up i'd go with the component set for the fronts because it will replace the factory tweeter as well as the speaker in the door. i think you'd have to get 5x7's for the rear. you have an evo 9 correct? all those speakers can be pushed with your headunit (with the exception of the infinity speakers because i'm not sure your radio can do two ohms) but some people will say you will get better output and clearer sound by using an amp. as far as the mounting the amp to the box, it's possible but i'm thinking that the box won't be big enough to have the amp mounted to it. sometimes amps can be kind of large so make sure you measure and check it out. i have my two amps mounted to the box in my honda and they work fine. just make sure you have enough wire and that the box doesn't slide or else it could pull them out of the amp and wires touching is a no no. also on the doors rattling, the door speakers would have to be putting out a lot of bass to do that and i don't think these will. if they do it won't be so much that it will be noticeable. hope this helps you out.

t mac

iTrader: (3)

How does it replace the factory tweeter? like it comes with 2 tweeters to replace the old ones in the same spot, or the tweeters are in the door...I just didnt see any in the picture for the pioneers

the rear speakers are 5x7? I thought I read in the sticky up top that the back speakers were 6.5"?

So can I mix the component and have coax in the rear?
And is it better to get the pioneers that have 50w RMS, or these alpine components that have 80w RMS (these: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1199494646675) ...and my HU will be able to sufficiently power these low rms components?

Glad to hear the door rattling will be at a minimum, most of the other people complaining about it seem to have more powerful door speakers than these...

jb103080

iTrader: (1)

those alpines are good to go too. yeah the tweeter will replace the one that's in the a-pillar. i thought the rears were 5x7 but look in the back in the trunk. if they're circle then they are the 6.5's if they look oval than they're 5x7's. also yes you can go with components in the front and coax's in the rear. most of the time you're in the driver seat so the front's are gonna affect you more than the rears. your headunit will do ok on powering them but as said before you will get more with an amp.