An Evo system
#19
Thanks a lot, guys. The system worked out really well. I'm still looking for weighs to minimize its weight. Zed Audio is releasing a compact 6-channel amp very soon. I'd sure like to hear it. If it lives up to Zed's previous work, I could make for a way to lose ~30lbs.
#20
I'm at the point where I want to start working on sound deadening. I found the link you gave to sound deadener showdown very interesting. I was not really looking forward to going at my car with all that dynamat and I'm glad I didn't. I found the pics of your door helpful to illustrate what the website was talking about. Did you do anything else in your Evo? If you did (sorry I missed it somewhere) do you have a link or can you say briefly what you did? I'm done with the track in my car and now want a little more civil (on the inside) road beast. I'm not worried about adding weight. I can't really afford for my car to be down much longer than a weekend with family duties and all so I was wondering if you had any tips for best bang as far as what areas to do first as time allows. Hoping to pick your brain a little Evo specific tips. Thanks for any help.
#22
I'm at the point where I want to start working on sound deadening. I found the link you gave to sound deadener showdown very interesting. I was not really looking forward to going at my car with all that dynamat and I'm glad I didn't. I found the pics of your door helpful to illustrate what the website was talking about. Did you do anything else in your Evo? If you did (sorry I missed it somewhere) do you have a link or can you say briefly what you did? I'm done with the track in my car and now want a little more civil (on the inside) road beast. I'm not worried about adding weight. I can't really afford for my car to be down much longer than a weekend with family duties and all so I was wondering if you had any tips for best bang as far as what areas to do first as time allows. Hoping to pick your brain a little Evo specific tips. Thanks for any help.
#23
Ironically, I'll be removing the system over the weekend. The stock speakers are going up front, the HU is being replaced by an Alpine 102 (the transport in the 9887 died), and the Ref200 is the only amp staying in the car. Over the course of the last 2 years I've decided that trying for SQ in this car amounts to an exercise in frustration. Once the system is tuned for a given environment, a change in speed, road conditions, choice of mods, etc changes everything once again. It's not worth it, at least to me. I've always wanted to have a good-sounding car system, but the Evo isn't the right vehicle for the task.
#25
I only deadened the doors. The rest of the car would have taken up too much effort and added a lot of weight. MLV is ~1lb per ft2. If I were you, I'd contact Don at Sounddeadenershowdown. I've referred a few folks to him, so he's familiar with Evos and he'd be able to advise you much better than I can. Good luck.
#26
Thanks, I'll send him an email. Can you describe what you did to the metal part of the door and where? I think you said you deadened it and sealed it, what did you do exactly if you don't mind? From what I read on the site about this I was thinking of using a square of Dynamat Extreme (already have some) on the inside of the outer door skin. Not sure if I need to seal the inner door with sheets of Dynamat like I've seen.
If you were to take on a similar project, you'd start with deadening the sheetmental. As you mentioned, a ~1' square of Dynamat Extreme should take care of that. I used 2 CLD tiles spread a few inches apart. Sealing the door is next. If you log onto caraudio.com, the speaker forum has a sealing sticky with many examples. Then, you may want to add some deadening and foam to the door card to stop the resonance-driven buzzing. Doing the doors is arguably the singe biggest sonic improvement you can make. It's at least in the top-2.
#27
Dynamat Extreme is an excellent product. By working the door, we're trying to accomplish two things: we want to deaden the sheetmetal and we want to create the right environment for the speaker. The vast majority of car speakers are designed to operate in an infinite baffle. Meaning, for all intents and purposes, that the area surrounding the front of the speaker can't have any openings in it. That's why we seal the door with additional deadening material.
If you were to take on a similar project, you'd start with deadening the sheetmental. As you mentioned, a ~1' square of Dynamat Extreme should take care of that. I used 2 CLD tiles spread a few inches apart. Sealing the door is next. If you log onto caraudio.com, the speaker forum has a sealing sticky with many examples. Then, you may want to add some deadening and foam to the door card to stop the resonance-driven buzzing. Doing the doors is arguably the singe biggest sonic improvement you can make. It's at least in the top-2.
If you were to take on a similar project, you'd start with deadening the sheetmental. As you mentioned, a ~1' square of Dynamat Extreme should take care of that. I used 2 CLD tiles spread a few inches apart. Sealing the door is next. If you log onto caraudio.com, the speaker forum has a sealing sticky with many examples. Then, you may want to add some deadening and foam to the door card to stop the resonance-driven buzzing. Doing the doors is arguably the singe biggest sonic improvement you can make. It's at least in the top-2.
#29
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I can't wait to hear this next time I see you. Although less of a fanatic than you with car audio, I used to have my own business in like 2000 - 2002 of car stereo sales and installs. I would love to hear what this sounds like!
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