SSL Infinty Amp Wiring
#32
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It's amazing anyone would actually argue against using upgraded wiring with a bigger amplifier. I don't even know what your comment means in this context.
The individual that installed mine said the same thing.
Last edited by FJF; Dec 26, 2011 at 03:28 AM.
#34
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What are you talking about? Really. What does the text above actually mean?
Seriously? You know for sure there are at least three people in this thread who know a lot more about this than you do. What makes you think that you can post something so ridiculous and have those folks believe you? This pretty much sums-up the entire thread.
As for the wire - cost significantly more -- wasn't interested in what little gain there would have been to me.
Last edited by FJF; Dec 26, 2011 at 10:12 AM.
#35
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iTrader: (15)
What are you talking about? Really. What does the text above actually mean?
Seriously? You know for sure there are at least three people in this thread who know a lot more about this than you do. What makes you think that you can post something so ridiculous and have those folks believe you? This pretty much sums-up the entire thread.
Seriously? You know for sure there are at least three people in this thread who know a lot more about this than you do. What makes you think that you can post something so ridiculous and have those folks believe you? This pretty much sums-up the entire thread.
The cost for the wire install -- was not worth it for me? Why are you still rocking a stock turbo? Why dont you upgrate to ___________? Its way better... blah blah blah.
As for the testing of the speakers - he SAID you could use a 9volt battery - and watch the cone. But as he didnt remove the door panels - it was easier just to listen to the pair with the test track.
Is that simplified enough for you? Or do you need a crayon drawn picture?
#36
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![lol](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
The cost for the wire install -- was not worth it for me? Why are you still rocking a stock turbo? Why dont you upgrate to ___________? Its way better... blah blah blah.
As for the testing of the speakers - he SAID you could use a 9volt battery - and watch the cone. But as he didnt remove the door panels - it was easier just to listen to the pair with the test track.
Is that simplified enough for you? Or do you need a crayon drawn picture?
#39
Evolved Member
iTrader: (18)
On an Evo with stock speakers? I just tried doing exactly as you suggested. Used a 200-lumen tactical flashlight. Yes, one can see the speaker. If you can be 100% as to its excursion, you're a better man than I. Maybe with a smaller aftermarket driver whose circumference is smaller than the inner speaker guide molded into the doorcard.
Last edited by FJF; Dec 26, 2011 at 03:01 PM.
#40
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Yes, you're the authority here. ![lol](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
There's an electrical reason to upgrade the wiring; the amp's current draw. It's a not a some ricer stock vs aftermarket parts thingy, as you seem to imply.
Wait, now he listened to the pair? We went over this and now you have a factoid to post out of nowhere. Oh, wait, it wasn't out of nowhere. I was the one who told you that how it was done. An answer for everything.
It was simple after the first couple of posts. You're not an honest individual.
![lol](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
There's an electrical reason to upgrade the wiring; the amp's current draw. It's a not a some ricer stock vs aftermarket parts thingy, as you seem to imply.
Wait, now he listened to the pair? We went over this and now you have a factoid to post out of nowhere. Oh, wait, it wasn't out of nowhere. I was the one who told you that how it was done. An answer for everything.
It was simple after the first couple of posts. You're not an honest individual.
#41
well, i own a stereo shop and have been installing for over 10 years. i guess its something you get good at after the years go by. lol i use just my single led pen light. now it doest work it all cars but most. but i will say, in our cars, dealing with a off axis front setup. mine sounds much better with the tweeters out of phaze, gives me a much wider soundstage
#42
Evolved Member
iTrader: (18)
well, i own a stereo shop and have been installing for over 10 years. i guess its something you get good at after the years go by. lol i use just my single led pen light. now it doest work it all cars but most. but i will say, in our cars, dealing with a off axis front setup. mine sounds much better with the tweeters out of phaze, gives me a much wider soundstage
#43
Evolved Member
![Upside Down Smiley](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/uppydown3d.gif)
#44
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Without yanking the door panels off and unplugging the wire from the speaker then using a multimeter from there to check for continuity at the amp wiring harness, you could always try calling Crutchfield or the car audio shop at BestBuy or something. They may be able to tell you the wire's color codes and schematics.
That said, OEM wiring sucks *** and you should just run all new thicker guage wire directly from your amp to your speakers. If you are wiring it yourself, ALWAYS follow a standard. All the name brand wire is coded so that one of the 2 in a pair has a marking on it. I always plug the striped into the positive terminal, and solid into the negative terminal so I never mess it up.
Left and right speakers (and usually front and back) that are out of phase can cancel each other's sound out and sound like crap or be much quieter than they should be.
-Interesting to hear about the tweeters being wired out of phase from the mids on OEM though.
Thicker guage wire is ALWAYS the way to go. Your system will sound better and louder with less power and less distortion.
That said, OEM wiring sucks *** and you should just run all new thicker guage wire directly from your amp to your speakers. If you are wiring it yourself, ALWAYS follow a standard. All the name brand wire is coded so that one of the 2 in a pair has a marking on it. I always plug the striped into the positive terminal, and solid into the negative terminal so I never mess it up.
Left and right speakers (and usually front and back) that are out of phase can cancel each other's sound out and sound like crap or be much quieter than they should be.
-Interesting to hear about the tweeters being wired out of phase from the mids on OEM though.
Thicker guage wire is ALWAYS the way to go. Your system will sound better and louder with less power and less distortion.
Last edited by digitalskillz; Jan 10, 2012 at 04:46 AM.
#45
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SpiderX did you ever find a wiring diagram?
This might help:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...d-oem-amp.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...ystem-nav.html
Also, this info is for the non RF system, but may be of some help:
http://www. (theotherevoforum) /foru...ead.php?t=3855
This might help:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...d-oem-amp.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...ystem-nav.html
Also, this info is for the non RF system, but may be of some help:
http://www. (theotherevoforum) /foru...ead.php?t=3855
Last edited by digitalskillz; Jan 11, 2012 at 05:45 AM.