MJ23FE

iTrader: (3)

You should really do research. You're a complete effin noob that looks like a friggin idiot right now. Have some self respect. SEARCH ON AN AUDIO FORUM AND OTHER SITES ON HOW TO DO THE CRAP YOU'RE TRYING TO DO!!!

It took me 30 seconds to find the photo I posted. SEARCH!!!!!!

-Jalal

futureal

Guess what I dont give a rats *** about WHAT I LOOK LIKE. Apparently you do! I imagine you have a BIG EGO. You probably have a big belly, and you carry yourself as a very important self. You might have a college degree may be some or may be none! And you think that everyone else is a noob due to your low self esteem you flame everyone else to make your self feel better and feed your EGO. WAKE UP! Now you are talking to a guy who's got a Masters degree and I dont give a **** that I have it. Because I dont care much about it my self importance! BUT all i want is answers thats why I am here! thats why Evolutionm.net is here and so are 1,000 of others. And because of guys like you and things you say many other people try to play right and sound right. Guess what a lot of people donot give a **** what they souind like and what you know. SO, WAKE UP! smell the coffee or whatever you wake up with and realize noone gives a **** about that you think abou what other people sound like.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

He was trying to tell you that you need to communicate some technical information. In order for that to happen, you first need to do a little legwork so that you can understand what it is to begin with.

If I had to guess, I'd say that it's a combination of you boosting the low end somewhere along the way and a driver that's presenting too low of a load forcing the amp to draw the current. This isn't really a stretch. Helping you fix this is impossible without knowing how the system is configured.

futureal

You are absolutely right I realize now that I need to look at the wiring and do some background research. I will look at the wiring over this weekend and post a diagram. for what its worth thanks man! Sounds like you know quite a lot about this.

futureal

From the specs I can see that my AMP is 4ohm and can be run at 2ohm as well. My sub is 4 ohm. Its wired at 4 ohm

futureal

Alpine PDX 1.600 has 4 settings I can adjust 1-Gain (min & max) 2-select 0.1v-1.0v and 1.0v-8.0v 3-LP Filter 50-200hz 4-subsonic filter off, 15hz, 30hz.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

Let me stop you right there. Your sub is a dual voice coil driver, each coil rated at 4 Ohms. This means that it can either be wired for 2 Ohms or 8 Ohms. A typical car installer will almost always wire it for the lowest value, so the odds are it's running at a (nominal) 2 Ohms.

Please also understand that we need to know how the system is configured, not which adjustments are available (we already know that) so that folks can diagnose the problem. This includes the tuning setting in the HU, as well.

futureal

Just to make sure things are hooked up correctly which I am going to figure out this weekend, I ve found out from Pioneer Avic Z2 specs that its preamp voltage is 2 volts. Therefore the "Gain Range: select 0.1-1.0 volt or 1.0-8.0 volt range for the rotary control depending on the output RCA level of your head unit" according to the specs on Alpine PDX 1.600 it sould be set at 1.0-8.0.

Now according to Alpine Specs again it says this amp will work with either 2ohm sub or 4ohm sub.
"2 and 4-ohm Stable: The PDX mono amplifier can be used with virtually any subwoofers because the PDX amplifier produces the same amount of power into both 2-ohm and 4-ohm, so you will get the most from your subwoofers in almost any application."

so that means that my sub can be wired for 2 ohm or 4ohm so that shouldnt matter.?

FJF

iTrader: (18)

You want to take a look at the various filters and tone controls/EQ. Is there a bass boost function? Is Loudness turned on, if it exists? That would be the first thing I'd look at.

A 2 Ohm value is nominal, meaning, it really isn't 2 Ohms. It can dip significantly lower. The issue can be aggravated by other factors, as well, such as the tuning of the enclosure.

futureal

Built-in Speaker Power MOSFET 50W x 4
Continuous Power Output 22W x 4
Equalizer EEQ (3-Band Parametric)
Loudness 3 Mode
Source Level Adjuster (SLA)
High-Pass Crossover (HPF) 50/80/125Hz, -12dB/Oct.
Subwoofer Crossover (LPF) 50/80/125Hz, -12dB/Oct.
RCA Preouts 3 pair (Front, Rear, Sub/Non-Fading)
Preout Voltage 2.2V, 1k Ohm


HU controls: my loudness setting has 3 sub settings off,low, mid, high - Bass has 6 settings 1 through 6, My EQ I can have it custom, preset or off. High-Pass Crossover (HPF) 50/80/125Hz, -12dB/Oct. Sub has a setting at HU to switch polarity normal or invert. Subwoofer Crossover (LPF) 50/80/125Hz, -12dB/Oct

Now if I have all of the above - OFF and sub at 1 and HPF and LPF at 125hz or any hz. if I set volume to max it still drops voltage and cuts out. it therefore seems to be a wiring problem. or amp setting. hhmmm

Acree

iTrader: (8)

I'm a degreed electrical engineer (in 3 months) and have worked in car audio for over 6 years installing a fair share of multi-thousand dollar systems. I clicked on this thread 110% ready and willing to help.

As I read on through the thread, my willingness/desire to help you diminished to complete zero. You consistently mock those who are trying to help you and fire back with childish insults. It's rather quite amusing.

Good luck fixing your problem.

-Acree

futureal

You should actually read the post instead of jumping to permanent conclusions based on your temporary emotion. & trust me I am not here to feed your 6 year electrical engineering ego, I ve solved issue before solely on my own I am sure I can takle this one

Acree

iTrader: (8)

I worked on electronics since I was 16, because I understood it, not because I needed 6 years. @ you. I've read through post 17. That's all I need. And trust me, I don't need your "enlightening" input to feed my ego. Thanks for the offer though.

You can't even be bothered to type with proper grammar or punctuation. I'm sure you can solve this problem on your own also.

-Acree

FJF

iTrader: (18)

Before anything else, what exactly do you mean by, "volume to max?" How loud is it at that point and I don't mean just the bass? And, what (exactly) are you playing through the system as it's happening?

majestic*

iTrader: (2)

The voltage drop is most likely due to the fact that the amp is drawing a lot of current to try to make the power you're demanding. If you are running 4awg or larger wire that is good but there is no mention of your ground wire.

Any high currentsystem I install (80amp or more) I run a battery ground to the amp(s). If you are starring the circuit at the battery you must finish it at the battery. Don't rely on a chasis ground to complete that high current circuit.

Also, make sure you are using 100% copper not cca(copper coated alluminum) as inferior wire will not conduct well and will heat up faster and in the end create more resistance. The more heat and resistence = less efficient. Check your wiring and if it says 4awg that means American wire Guage. If it just says 4ga or gauge spelt out its not true 4 gauge.

Also may want to look into an alternator upgrade because mitsu didn't anticipate you adding 100amps of current to the stock charging system.

Hope this helps