I currently have a Pioneer Avic Z2 with 2 Alpine PDX Amps in the trunk 1.600 & 4.150. 4.150 hooked up to 4 Component Focal speakers and 1.600 hooked up to a 10 inch JL W6v2 Sub. The problem I am having is sub cuts out at high bass and same time voltage drops as the voltage meter shows on my Pioneer head unit. I am trying to figure out what to do next. I've went from Burschur mini battery to a yellow top to help this, - it didnt help at all. Now I got a 50 pound battery in my car vs a 5 pound one. Whats next? Do I need to put in a capacitor next to the amps? and maybe a hypergound wire kit?
Thanks for all the help guys I've been having this problem for 5 years now. noone seems to know the answer. The installer says its weird and even replaced all my Alpine PDX amps for free but the problem remains. Its fine when I listen to music, but as soon as I crank it up, especially a lot of bass, Sub cuts out, have to restart the car to get it to work again.

 

What ohm load are u running ur sub at? Is it a dual voice coil or single and I'm guessing the voice coil/coils(which ever may apply) are 2 ohm?

 

And how r u running it? As in on one channel of the 2 or on the bridged channel?

 

JL website says its is W6v2 10-inch Subwoofer Driver (600 W, dual 4 Ω voice coils).

hooked up to

it has the following specs: Per channel into 4 ohms: 600W x 1 (0.08% THD)
Per channel into 2 ohms: 600W x 1
1/2 Channel Operation
Class-D
Stackable Installation Design
Marine Coating System
Salt/Fog (ASTM B117) Certified
UV (ASTM G154/D4329) Certified
Mono Subwoofer Amp
Low-Pass Crossover 50Hz-200Hz variable
Subsonic filter 15Hz/30Hz selectable
"Quick connect" High Current speaker terminals

 

I wonder what else can be done to fix this voltage drop / sub cut out

 

How about you start by explaining exactly how the system is wired and tuned? I'm not trying to sound rude when I say that you also need to review some basic audio jargon so that you can communicate this clearly. For example, you use terms like "high bass" that have no defined meaning. First thing I'd look at is the system's tuning. How is the bass EQ'd? How is the LPF configured? Are the filters on the amp and the HU both being used: Yes/No, how they currently setup? I'm assuming the driver is wired for 2 Ohms. Is that correct? You really need to post some info, if you want an intelligent reply.

If you're not listening to music when you crank it up, what are you playing?

 

On one hand - dont be a wise **** because you know what my 5 year old can be a wise ****. But it takes more energy not to. So Dude be a little more positive, sounds like you got a personal life issue dont bring it here. I am just trying to find things out thats all.
On the other hand sounds like you know a lot of valuable information that will greatly help a lot of people here.
So my next step would be is to draw up a diagram on how my system is wired and what is wired to what and then I can try to diagnose the issue with help here. Is that right?

 

I have the same problem with my system. I have a jl audio 500/1v2 amp and a dual voice coil sub wired at 2 ohm the amp is stable at 2 ohm but my bass fades in and out. Asked jl audio about this no response. Im using 4 gauge wire with stock deck.

 

I had the same issue in my Acura and the problem was solved once I installed one good quality capacitor (you might need 2) right next to the amp. For reference I also had a stock size no name battery...from some parts store.

The install guy explained to me both my amps (amp one for two 10" subs and amp two for my mids and tweets) drew more power then my Acura's electrical system could provide. It was cheaper for me to go this route then replace the alternator and battery.

This MAY be a solution....but I'm not claiming to be a car stereo expert or electrical expert by no means...

Good Luck!!

I'm surprised your installer didn't mention capacitors as a possible solution.

 

Thanks! I am suspecting its something as simple as a capacitor. Because when I set volume very high or even to the maximum and watch the voltmeter and wait for deep, loud low sound - bass to hit - voltage instantly drops from 14volts to like 11.5volts and subwoofer, goes click and silence - only speakers are playing.

 

Uhhhh.......you asked for help and while FJF may've been a little harsh he has a point. You wern't really technical with your description of a technical problem.

+2 on the electrical system not being able to handle when the bass hits hard.

I have to Alpine amps that were just wired up and I'm wondering if I'm going to have the same problem. I have a Optima Yellow top mounted in the trunk so I'm hoping I don't have to use a Cap as well.

 

How can I figure out what ohm load I am running my sub? Can you tell from JL specs whether it is a dual or single voice coil? How can I tell? thanks for the info I really appreciate it!

 

What is the difference? I thought that its simple enough that 1.600 amp is wired directly to a sub. And head unit to an amp. Is there an adjustment on the Alpine PDX amp that I can play with?

 

EQ I suspect equilizer? whats LPF?, What is HU? I think its 2 ohms. I will find out once I figure out what LPF is and HU

 

The way it's wired up!



-Jalal