Intercooler coupling problems ????
Oct 25, 2004, 10:55 AM
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Intercooler coupling problems ????
My car lost major top end power and I was trying to find out why. After a boost leak test (I had to put the engine at TDC despite what others said in order for the test to work. Another option is to cap off the uppder pipe.) I found that the hump on silicone coupler between the intercooler and upper piping was slightly torned. I didn't imagine such a small leak can hamper performance that much. I didn't have a new coupling so end up taping the silicone coupler with duck tape.
Took the car out for a test drive and wow what a difference that made. I need to get new silicone coupling but not sure whether to get the Silicone Straight Coupler or Silicone Hump Coupler. Also where can I get some high quality ones?
I know some of you think BOV doesn't matter in performance but I tested the hks, turbo xs rfl, and 1g bov on my car and I can say it matters a lot. My car was dynoflash with the turbo xs rfl and the car pulls strong. Test it with the hks and 1g bov as the only change and the top end power is not the same. Just curious if anyone else have try this and justify whether a BOV does make a difference.
Thks.
Took the car out for a test drive and wow what a difference that made. I need to get new silicone coupling but not sure whether to get the Silicone Straight Coupler or Silicone Hump Coupler. Also where can I get some high quality ones?
I know some of you think BOV doesn't matter in performance but I tested the hks, turbo xs rfl, and 1g bov on my car and I can say it matters a lot. My car was dynoflash with the turbo xs rfl and the car pulls strong. Test it with the hks and 1g bov as the only change and the top end power is not the same. Just curious if anyone else have try this and justify whether a BOV does make a difference.
Thks.
Last edited by GOKOU; Oct 25, 2004 at 10:58 AM.
Oct 26, 2004, 10:07 AM
#4
In order to properly pressure test the system, you need to make sure all the intake valves are closed completely or the pressure test won't work and you have to cap the upper pipe. Also, if you do it capped off, you have to make sure you supply a pressure source to the DV/BOV so it has the same "running pressure" on the diaphragm so you can see if it leaks.. I discovered my 1G valve was partially open under vacuum, and would blow open under boost pressure over 20psi, so I can see 100% where your coming from.
Oct 26, 2004, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by matt55
Realy ? what did it do if it was not at tdc ?
Last edited by GOKOU; Oct 26, 2004 at 10:32 AM.
Oct 26, 2004, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by MalibuJack
In order to properly pressure test the system, you need to make sure all the intake valves are closed completely or the pressure test won't work and you have to cap the upper pipe. Also, if you do it capped off, you have to make sure you supply a pressure source to the DV/BOV so it has the same "running pressure" on the diaphragm so you can see if it leaks.. I discovered my 1G valve was partially open under vacuum, and would blow open under boost pressure over 20psi, so I can see 100% where your coming from.
.
Oct 26, 2004, 10:39 AM
#7
Originally Posted by GOKOU
There was no pressure at all. It seems as if the air was going out somewhere which I suspect could be through the intake or exhaust. I bought a 2" cap and just cap the upper pipe.
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Oct 26, 2004, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by matt55
Wow b/c i did it , and didnt have to plug the pipe at the TBody , I got it up to 15-17 lbs and it would hold it for 20-30 sec b4 leaking dowm really slowly . Maybe i got lucky with the tdc thing ?....
You drive your car daily so I'm sure you'll know when something is not right even though others will keep on saying that it could be normal. It was frustrating for me because I recently bought t bolt clamps and the problem was still there. Didn't imagine it could be my coupler.
Oct 26, 2004, 01:44 PM
#9
Originally Posted by GOKOU
That could be the case because it as the same with me when I had the engine at TDC. My boost gauge on the car went to 15-17lbs and starting to leak down. I don't think it ever made it to 20 or 25. The only way I found out about the tear was by using water. I put water on the coupler and it started to bubble and made noise.
You drive your car daily so I'm sure you'll know when something is not right even though others will keep on saying that it could be normal. It was frustrating for me because I recently bought t bolt clamps and the problem was still there. Didn't imagine it could be my coupler.
You drive your car daily so I'm sure you'll know when something is not right even though others will keep on saying that it could be normal. It was frustrating for me because I recently bought t bolt clamps and the problem was still there. Didn't imagine it could be my coupler.
Oct 26, 2004, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by matt55
BTW --When you did your leak test did you have a slight hissing coming from the T- body ? 2 of my friends and I looked it all over using soapy water and could not find any thing ???
Oct 26, 2004, 02:02 PM
#11
Originally Posted by GOKOU
Yes, and I thought the throttle body bolt was lose but that wasn't the case. Not sure what it was. I don't know others can pressure test up to 25 psi. I would recommend plugging the upper pipe next time you're doing a leak test.
