4-BNGR

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately, you've got some reading to do

http://www.citgo.com/Products/LubesO...EngineOils.jsp

http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp


http://www.yotarepair.com/sludge%20article.html

When you're finished I suggest you give "LE" a try. Your car will perform better with it then any full syn.

4-BNGR

ex-honda

They are all sales pitches. The reason why Mitsu. recommends M1 is because they are a big sponsor for them in the rally world. As far as I know. To really know what is going on in the engine is to get your oil tested. It will get expensive but to really know what oil is good is to try and test all of them out.

mttam510

Redline 10W-30

TampaTurbo

iTrader: (7)

You know I always would have thought synthetic is synthetic. Stick with the name brands but as long as you chnage your oil every 3000 miles then you should be ok. Pennzoil has been around for a long time to. I dont think any manufacturer of oil would be in business if they were selling bad oil. I used the Pennzoil with Pennzane for a very long time. I had no probelms. And this was in a car that was running 22PSI all the time with a big 20G turbo with no tuning. I would have hated to see what my AFRs were since my EGTs were hitting over 900 degrees under heavy loads. I would say the oil was working because I didnt melt anything thank goodness.

batmoEVO

Well, you can't argue with 3 mpg extra after changing to AMSOIL. The lubrication definitely isn't a problem. I understand where you are coming from, but we are not in the days of "if its black, change it" anymore. Oils can suspend a wicked amount of carbon and other deposits and maintain superior lubrication. I didn't believe it either til I tried it. But you can't go wrong with M1 either - By the way, Series 2000 beat M1 in six different tests, not just one, and AMSOIL doesn't fool around.

jcnel_evo8

iTrader: (2)

Oil lubricates, additives don't. The better the base stock, the better the oil can potentially be. As far as different oils go, it comes down to 1st base stock quality, and 2nd the polymer package they add, the trace metalization added, and the detergent package added.

Mobil 1 test, after test, after test, seems to have the best additive package for newer engines. Is it good for the EVO? ... after 10k of it inmy EVO, it wears fine, looks a little black at 1k, but stays really carmelly for a long time, 4 to 5k. Just because Mobil 1 sponsors Mitsu. doesn't mean its a 'bad' oil. Amsoil seems to have additive packages that favor older motors. I think its part of the metalization that older motors seem to need a bit more of.

Is M1 for everything? No. For example my SV650S motorbike runs best Shell Rotella T 15W-40, and my clutch in that bike slips major crazy on M1 15W-50 or 10W-40. The tranny and motor really like the Rotella T. For my liter twin TL1000S I use Golden Spectro. For my Sentra ... Chevron Supreme 5W-30. For the EVO, 10W-30 in the summer .. and 5W-30 in the winter. The EVO 'finally' doesn't burn a lot of oil, I'm down to 1/2 quart every 3.5k to 4k miles.

If I were to 'suspend' more particles in an oil ... I'd do it in a filter. They have 1 micron filters avaliable, and I wish we could find more kits to go around. The diesel heads have this figured out, but the car industry is still in the disposa-car attitude where any person just wants to get at a max. 150k miles out of a car.

One more time ... oil lubricates, additives don't.

Smiles,

Cheers,

jcnel.