aftermarket clutch disc w/ stock pressure plate and TO bearing?
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aftermarket clutch disc w/ stock pressure plate and TO bearing?
ok just wondering if anyone had any info or experience about using the stock evo pressure plate and throwout bearing and using an aftermarket disc??? i have a friend who has new stock pressure plate and throwout bearing he doesnt need since he just got an exedy twin... so the thought was to use those parts with something like an ACT street disc or maybe the RRE noname one...
also when i will be getting the flywheel resurfaced i was thinking about getting it lightened... any thoughts??? THANKS!!!!!
also when i will be getting the flywheel resurfaced i was thinking about getting it lightened... any thoughts??? THANKS!!!!!
#2
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Originally Posted by reefro
ok just wondering if anyone had any info or experience about using the stock evo pressure plate and throwout bearing and using an aftermarket disc??? i have a friend who has new stock pressure plate and throwout bearing he doesnt need since he just got an exedy twin... so the thought was to use those parts with something like an ACT street disc or maybe the RRE noname one...
also when i will be getting the flywheel resurfaced i was thinking about getting it lightened... any thoughts??? THANKS!!!!!
also when i will be getting the flywheel resurfaced i was thinking about getting it lightened... any thoughts??? THANKS!!!!!
![Mitsubishi Logo](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/mitsu_logo.gif)
The stock flywheel is already pretty light so I wouldn't worry about that.
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hmmm i see... so do you think the pressure plate would die before the disc anyways? and if i was to use the stock pressure plate i should just use the stock disc??? basically i am very broke right now and my clutch is slipping... trying to do this as cheap as possible but i really dont want to see my clutch die in another 9000 miles
or maybe i should just save a little more and get a kit? the rre noname seems like a good deal though... anyone know any problems with that setup?? ahh decisions decisions.... thx for the reply though!
![Frown](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
or maybe i should just save a little more and get a kit? the rre noname seems like a good deal though... anyone know any problems with that setup?? ahh decisions decisions.... thx for the reply though!
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hrmm well just got some additional info i thought i should post just to see what anyone thinks... from what i have been told, the clutch my friend replaced had a real messed up looking disc, but the pressure plate didnt look too bad... but is the plate where the slipping happens???
also my friend called ACT to ask about this setup, and they told him it would work well with one of their street discs, and a stainless steel clutch line to remove the backflow valve or whatever its called... but i dont want to get just a disc if the other parts wear out fast anyways and i have to replace them just as quick! THANKS EVERYONE!
also my friend called ACT to ask about this setup, and they told him it would work well with one of their street discs, and a stainless steel clutch line to remove the backflow valve or whatever its called... but i dont want to get just a disc if the other parts wear out fast anyways and i have to replace them just as quick! THANKS EVERYONE!
#5
The problem with the mitsu pressure plate is that it has "stops" that hit the flywheel when the stock disc is worn almost to the rivits,but not quite,as to prevent damaging your flywheel.If I were to replace my clutch again I would do just like you are about to do,get an ACT disc and use an new pressure plate from mitsu,but would modify those stops by grinding them down about .050" or more,or even grinding them off all together.I love the ease of the stock pressure plate feel through the clutch pedal,and the little bit of slip it gives at the dragstrip,but locks right up after that little bit of slip for some good 60' times and alot less shock to your drivetrain,sort of like a "lock-up"type clutch.Hope this helps
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Originally Posted by turboDan
The problem with the mitsu pressure plate is that it has "stops" that hit the flywheel when the stock disc is worn almost to the rivits,but not quite,as to prevent damaging your flywheel.If I were to replace my clutch again I would do just like you are about to do,get an ACT disc and use an new pressure plate from mitsu,but would modify those stops by grinding them down about .050" or more,or even grinding them off all together.I love the ease of the stock pressure plate feel through the clutch pedal,and the little bit of slip it gives at the dragstrip,but locks right up after that little bit of slip for some good 60' times and alot less shock to your drivetrain,sort of like a "lock-up"type clutch.Hope this helps![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#7
Originally Posted by blinguskahn
What do these "stops" look like? Where are they located?
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#8
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If you want to do this on the cheap, your friend's pressure plate should work fine with the Exedy/ACT/Factory disk. The pressure plate, unless it was extremely heated/abused, should be fine. I have the ACT HD PP + Street Disk and it is a lot tougher, but a little more expensive. It's just that the stock components don't take hard launches very well, and the stock pressure plate won't hold the disk firmly enough to keep the disk from slipping, causing excessive wear.
I also paid $330 for the install at Clutch Doctors in Oregon.
I also paid $330 for the install at Clutch Doctors in Oregon.
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so if i remove the stops am i going to damage my flywheel?
also just curious what you are referring to as the "problem" with the stops - do they cause the disc or plate to wear down quicker or something like that?
also from what i understand, i will lose that "slip" you are talking about if i change to a stainless steel clutch line?? i guess actually this is caused by the restrictor valve correct?? it sounds like most people are taking it out even if though it creates more shock on the driveilne... but it sounds like from the ACT guy that taking it out will make the clutch live longer since it wont be slipping?
and again.. THANKS to all reading this!
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
also from what i understand, i will lose that "slip" you are talking about if i change to a stainless steel clutch line?? i guess actually this is caused by the restrictor valve correct?? it sounds like most people are taking it out even if though it creates more shock on the driveilne... but it sounds like from the ACT guy that taking it out will make the clutch live longer since it wont be slipping?
and again.. THANKS to all reading this!
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Originally Posted by machron1
If you want to do this on the cheap, your friend's pressure plate should work fine with the Exedy/ACT/Factory disk. The pressure plate, unless it was extremely heated/abused, should be fine. I have the ACT HD PP + Street Disk and it is a lot tougher, but a little more expensive. It's just that the stock components don't take hard launches very well, and the stock pressure plate won't hold the disk firmly enough to keep the disk from slipping, causing excessive wear.
I also paid $330 for the install at Clutch Doctors in Oregon.
I also paid $330 for the install at Clutch Doctors in Oregon.
also $330 sounds like a very reasonable deal to me! do you know how many hours that was?? i think we are actually going to attempt this ourselves..
![EEK!](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Last edited by reefro; Nov 5, 2004 at 06:51 PM.
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