Ookami

iTrader: (19)

I'm having a hard time moving into first gear from a stop,
I have to slam the shifter against the gate wall then up
and it'll go into gear. (or down into second then foward
into first works sometimes) Every other gear is smooth.

I've had a Mitsubishi tech look at the car and he says
it might very well be the first gear synchro is wore or defect.
He looked at the shift linkage (which I did as well) and saw
no problems ... he may have also adjusted the clutch pedal for
engagement. Fluid is BG Synchroshift...

I'm in limbo at the moment as the dealership I go to for
servicing is moving. Any thoughts on this would be useful.

Evo_Tuner

iTrader: (3)

I have the same problem. Don't know what it is. Sometimes it happends in reverse, too.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

I'm having the same exact problem. I have 300 miles on my ACT and it's very hard to move into 1st and reverse when the car or the clutch is cold.

I did re-adjust the master cylinder rod for the clutch (connected to the clutch paddle.) and solved the problem, but that way the clutch engages on the top notch of the clutch.

So I changed it back.

Now my 4th gear is popping out after the ACT install. I'm going to the dealership on monday to try to figure this out.

jsprat7

iTrader: (3)

i also have that problem, but it only started when i installed my short throw shifter and the brass bushings ever since then its been really stiff and annoying. i going to take out the brass ones and put the stock rubber ones back in hoping it will help any. btw do yall have a sts or brass bushings?

Ookami

iTrader: (19)

plokivos, re-adjusted the clutch rod near the front of the car correct? When they (not Mitsu) were installing my clutch they were fiddling with the rod trying to figure out how it worked. They eventually just put it on there, I'm curious as to if adjusting it will help or not. I've seen posts on using a clutch rod extender.

As I mentioned it's not easy by any means to push it into first now. It was fine but now it's extremely hard and annoying. I'll either try adjusting the rod myself or have Mitsubishi work on it and suggest messing with everything before taking the transmission out to look at the synchros.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

It helps, but it's compromising when you do. The clutch will engage a lot slower but the shifter will go in a lot smoother. I don't think you should have to do that for the clutch to engage faster and shifter to go in smoother. It's gotta be something else.

you get a 12mm wrench to loosen the stopper bolt. Then turn the rod to the right to make the clutch paddle move toward the floor (this makes the clutch engage faster, disengage slower).

I'm not 100% sure if I turn the rod clock wise or counter clock wise, but you could figure that out.

If you go too much toward the floor, you'll have some problems, too much toward the driver, it wont engage or engage on top of the paddle.

Yeh, I think it's more to than just the rod adjustment.

What you want to do is have the clutch come out toward the driver, instead of the floor to loosen up the shifter.

I would recommend mitsu dealer do it, just in case.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

ok, took some pictures. You need 6 mm wrench for the actual rod and turn counter-clockwise to make the clutch paddle go toward the floor, which will engage it faster but makes the shifter stiffer.

you have to move the Clutch engager switch (?) that engages the clutch out of the way. It's the blue thing with white button sticking out.

Without that white switch pushed, the clutch wont engage.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

any news on this? I'm going to the dealer tomorrow, but I'd like to find out if you guys figure anything out.

ACTman

iTrader: (5)

It should only take a little adjustment at the m/c rod to correct the problem. The only concern is that you don't adjust it too far. If you adjust the rod to the point where there is no freeplay in the master cylinder, then the hydraulics malfunction because they are not able to self-adjust for clutch wear and the clutch will become preloaded and burn up.

I find that the stock clutch engages too high for my liking but if you lower it to where you think the engagement point should be, it doesn't like to shift. I am afraid that you will find the same is true with our clutch. As far as an extender rod for the slave cylinder = voo-doo engineering. Any extra length at the slave cylinder is going to compensated for by the hydraulics.

Ookami

iTrader: (19)

I'm not entirely sure if adjusting the m/c rod will correct the problem. Right now it's extremely hard to move the shifter into first without the car turned on. I've spoken with my service tech and we'll be working on it soon. I'll post my findings when I find out more.

Thanks for the suggestion though, we'll give it a shot.

tweist99

I experanced similar problems after i had my clutch replaced with a clutchmaster... Pain in the @#$ to get it into 1st and almost impossiable to get into (R) but i adjusted my clutch pedal the same way as polikvos explains and it fixed the problem completely.... nothing u need to take it to the dealer for i did it myself in like 10 mins, the hardest part is the half-gainer-back-flip-and a tuck you gotta do to get upsidedown under your dash to do the work.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

lol, yeh the half back flip, stand yourself with your legs, bent back wards with your right arm pinned position is awful. Worst part is I always have hard time getting out of the car and standing up.

Ok, So I went to the dealership and they looked at my car, drove it, and I think they adjusted the pedal and looked at the shift linkage and may have adjusted the hydralic pressure something or other.

The clutch feels like ACT clutch but engages like the stock clutch. I could get into 1st a lot better but they told me that on after market clutches you have to really warm up your clutch and fluids before the car could be smoother.

tweist99

I also replaced my x-fer case fluids which seemed to smooth things up a bit with my shifting.. dam i just read your sig..... 220lbs it must be a workout to tweak your car, i mean i am only 140 and its still fusterateing sometimes for me... no wonder your car is still stock jk.... anyways i replaced my fluids with royal purple. I am impressed that you would talk to your dealership about having a aftermarket clutch in there... they must realy like you or something.. well that or u dont care about your warrenty.
L-8
Skinny @#$ white boy.

Ookami

iTrader: (19)

I'd say sometimes you have to mention an aftermarket clutch to give the service tech a better understanding of the problem at hand. For this particular problem I'd say it's covered under warranty considering it's not 2nd or 3rd which would be due to quick shifting. I guess it's all depend upon the dealership, service tech, service manager ... and Mitsubishi . I'm hoping mine is just an adjustment ... sounds as if it will be.

ACTman

iTrader: (5)

????