How abou this? Be patient and get everything you need and then get a reflash. I have spent almost 2 years modding my car, being patient, and reasearching everything I've done.

I had a full exhaust and intake on my car for a long time before I got a reflash. When I got my reflash I installed my mbc and fuel pump when the ECU came back. I didn't touch my car til I knew what I wanted next. I had 264's sitting in my garage for about 4-5 months before I had them installed because I wanted to make sure Al would be able to cutcom tune my car right after I got them installed. I got them installed on a Monday and drove to Chicago on Sat. and got my car tuned. Since Al tuned my car you can't even notice I have cams anymore. He did a stock tune reflfash on it and it idles just about like stock. Stumbles every once in a while, but you got to live with it when you have cams.

If your gonna stay with the stock turbo get the 264's or the 272/264 combo, but I still think you'll have some idling issues with that. Correct me if I'm wrong fellas.

 

Get IC piping ,Dynoflash and BOV.

 

I plan to do Pump, Flash, MR JDM BOV, Wait, wait, wait, wait, IC pipe, Cams (maybe) Flash.

 

I've got basically what you've got + Pump + Custom Dynoflash + Better clutch. Good for 300+WHP a couple of different dynos (varies greatly) but it was also good for a 12.8 @ 107 with crappy all-season conti's on the track, which I was pretty happy with.

I just bought intercooler hardpipes (upper and lower) and will install those shortly, then get reflashed - I'm hoping for low 12s on better tires. I'm in the camp of "do everything outside of the engine first"...

 

Are you talking about upper or lower intercooler pipes? Upper really don't show but maybe 2 HP. Not worth the cash to me unless your going for under the hood bling.

As of now, I the stock lower intercooler pipes and cams and my car is probably sitting around 320-330 whp.

 

I could care less about bling. LOL So I'd be getting lower if that's what would work. Right now i am going to work on getting a pump and then a mail in flash from Al. MY question is Could I get the Pump install it and then in a few weeks get a flash? This is my daily driver so I have to use it. If I remember correctly the pump was not the reason I had to get the AFC in my DSM the 550CC injectors were. Then again I did both mods at the same time along with a Big 16G. From what I can tell also the dyno sheets of a flash seem very linear can anyone confirm? That is the main problem I have with my car right now my power seems very peaky meaning it comes on then seems to die out although I am holding 20 psi and I have a "half assed" tune 5-7Krpm is -7% to -9% on the AFC. If I was to dyno it I am sure the curve would be all over the place unlike a dyno flash which seems to stay pretty straight all the way to 7.6 Grand.

I am in that camp also. Not big on taking the engine apart until I am left with no other choice. I did alot of bolt ons with my 96 DSM (Big 16G ported n clipped, 550CC inj, AFC, Walbro255, 3" turbo back with test pipe, K&N intake, MBC 19psi, Greddy Big FMIC, Upper IC pipe, and Greddy type S BOV) it was a blast to drive.... used to eat modded lightning SVT's in the dust on the highway, along with blown rustangs. To bad it was FWD and traction in 1st-3rd was basically a waste of time. It was a good highway worrior.

 

Yes, absolutely. You might foul the plugs a little and it wouldn't be a bad idea to swap in new ones right before the dyno tuning session, but you won't hurt anything important.

 

To second the pump info, like I said before I have the pump and it's ok. I did have problems with a set of Denso Iridiums, so that may have been due to the pump, but switching to NGK coppers gapped a little tighter has fixed the problems so far.

Not only is our current situation similar, but I also had a heavilly modded FWD before, except mine was an N/A Integra GSR with Toda cams, JDM itr pistons etc. etc. However, my car never ran right and it sounds like your did, lol. I even have a similar "half-assed" SAFC "tune" right now heh with ~-7 in the upper rpm.

I'm really looking forward to the flash after I complete my exhaust, since I think the flashes add timing in the middle, which the SAFC can't directly, for a very nice torque curve. I drove another EVOm member's EVO with AEM that dynoed at ~315 WHP. His car felt stronger throughout, but what I really loved was the midrange punch that carried into the upper rpms. I think the curve is linear, but also shifted higher, at least than my car. This member had gone from SAFC to Dynoflash, to AEM, and he confirmed that the flashed car and AEM tuned car were very similar SOTP. Both had much nicer and smoother power delivery than the SAFC.

My goal is really a "12 second capable" car. Trapping at 107 or so like Sterling would be great, or at least having a car capable of doing so. I haven't been to the strip much and not in the past 2 years. I'll have to get a clutch and see if I can achieve it myself.

Take care,

FB

 

I already have NGK BPR8ES's They really brought the knock down from the stockers. I guess my question is how necessary is the pump? I listened to many people when it came to my DSM and the pump/injectors seemd to be a little over kill. I was running -23% just to get the car to idle. It is about a 50/50 split some say you need it some say you don't. But I'd rather not find out the hard way.... LOL