Cracked Piston #2..WTH?

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Dec 12, 2004, 09:23 AM

#31

DynoFlash

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TD05HR

hey

Yeah it looks like a clean cracked...although 2morrow i'm gonna try and find the piece missing from the piston.. doubt i could find it though...prob. went out the exhuast...

i'm gonna take the oil pan off and take the piston out...i wanna see how far down it cracked...i;m guessing all the way and its just being held there by the rings..theres scuff marks on the cylinder walls from the edge of the piston where it cracked...cuase from the rinds i assume

more info..
the temp outside was really cold..it was like 30c out that night...so i dont know how much of a cooling prob i could of had...

i did pay attention to all my guages and nothing seem wrong, the temp guage never move..boost was set to 22psi then it taper down to around 20.5 @ redline..

coolant is fine didnt loose any...all of it happended in like 3-4 secs...i pull 4th to about 6500rpm, thats when it POP..

i like to thank AL for the offer...i might take you up on it...cuase i need to get this car out of my friend shop ASAP..so i dont really have a plan yet...just need to get some pistons put it in and worry about the rest of it later..

no i will not bring it to the dealer..my car is modded and i have to fight w. them...its just gonna take the time i dont have...plus i dont even trust the dealer to do this kind of major work on the car...

to answer some of the questions..

car has 18k on it

tune was custom on the dyno, i got it tune about 2 weeks ago..

gas was 93 from mobil, i always use mobil or shell nothing else unless i cant find the other 2, but at the time it was mobil..

sorry i dont have any picts of the head or the plugs..i will get some 2morrow once i take out the piston..but i can say they are in good shape..

The main thing is to take a look at the cyl bore and see if it is undamaged. If its OK then you can get away with a light hand hone and a free set of balanced new stock pistons, rods and rings we have here - prob dozens that we take out of brand new short blocks getting built. That would only cost you a new set of rod beraings and gaskets - cheap, but would leave you in the same exact postion you started with - stock weak *** pistons and a very powerful car.

Other cheap option, but giving you great power capacity and reliability, is to get a set of upgraded racing pistions in stock bore - again if the bore is good - and a set of eagle rods (ecomony) or Pauter (delux) and install those with a light hand hone. Again you can have all this stuff at cost.

Main issue at this point is to inspect the rest of the short block and head very carefully to look for any small peices of metal which may have flaked off the ends of that crack or from any missing pieces of the piston. If any contamination has gotten into the oil then the entire engine needs to be removed and cleaned carefully.

In that case, it would prob be a good time to remove your balance shafts.

If the head and block are OK - which it seems they are, then I do not think this is going to be very costly to repair. It may be a very good opportunity to upgrade to the racing pistons and billet rods which will provide you with a bullet proof bottom end.

On the brght side, if there is any, at least you were able to beat the honda 2 times!

PS - I can pick up your car and tow it down to Pruven if you like and they can do a job like this in a few days if you need a place to get this done.

Last edited by DynoFlash; Dec 12, 2004 at 09:26 AM.

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Dec 12, 2004, 09:32 AM

#32

DynoFlash

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TD05HR

i'm gonna take the oil pan off and take the piston out...i wanna see how far down it cracked...i;m guessing all the way and its just being held there by the rings..theres scuff marks on the cylinder walls from the edge of the piston where it cracked...cuase from the rinds i assume

Ah scuff marks ! If they are very light a hand hone can help you - otherwise any significant marks would require a rebore and oversize pistions

Give me a call tomorrow or tonight and I can walk you through all the stuff that needs to be done to get this car running . I will help you in any way I can to reduce your costs and get stuff done as cheaply as possible.

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Dec 12, 2004, 09:39 AM

#33

Az3ar

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I have never seen a piston broken in half like that. I believe it was a bad piston and you just had a bad luck.

Upgrading to stronger pistons and rods is a better option for sure.

Good luck

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Dec 12, 2004, 02:16 PM

#34

Jaylenospoolboy

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Might it have been just been a clogged or bad injector?

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Dec 12, 2004, 03:05 PM

#35

propellerhead

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For the labor involved, I'd go with the upgraded pistons and billet rods. Then again, I tend to be a "while you're at it" kinda guy.

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Dec 12, 2004, 08:45 PM

#36

TD05HR

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Dec 12, 2004, 08:58 PM

#37

TD05HR

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picts got from today...

cant seem to find any dmg on the head...but the piston cracked straight to the wrist pin..i can pairly swing the piston back and forth, do to the wrist pin binding...

the hole on the botton of the piston is the same size as the top...it broke the middle ring to 3 pieces..

Again thanks AL for offering the help...i'm gonna call you 2morrow and see if i can get that set of pistons from you...its really nice of you man...

to note: this has really nothing to do w. your tunning, i dont think...looks like its a **** up from mitsubishi..

i'm from MA, thats way to far for you to look at my car, or tow it to pruven...

i'm gonna take some picts of teh sidewall and see what you think...theres scuff marks on both sides where the rings broke...you i see the marks bit u really cant feel anything...looks like the rings polish the sidewall in away, i;m not sure if i need a hone or what...

as far as upgrading, i'm afraid i dont have any money save for that at this point...its christmas and i need to do some shopping for the family..hehe

i'm just gonna do stock again and pray it wil never happends again...

what do you guys think from the picts...?

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Dec 12, 2004, 10:20 PM

#38

Nad1370

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Really need to see the cylinder walls to make a call if it's ok.

Is ther cross hatches still visible in the cylinder walls?

Last edited by Nad1370; Dec 12, 2004 at 10:22 PM.

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Dec 12, 2004, 10:25 PM

#39

DynoFlash

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TD05HR

Thanks man - I would love to see some some more pics of it. I agree with you - it seems that the tuning is not a factor it seems that the piston may have had a casting defect which left it weak. After a year of follwing the evo - I have seen MANY pistions break and get damaged - but none which cracked in half like that. Post up a picture of the bore so I can see if its useable with a light hone

Thanks Al

Last edited by DynoFlash; Dec 12, 2004 at 10:30 PM.

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Dec 13, 2004, 06:11 AM

#40

EvoTech

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gsujeff55

bad piston, plain and simple. put stock cams back in and call mitsu, warranty replacement.

Ditto. Looks like a factory F... up! I doubt that there is anyone to blame but

on this one.

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Dec 13, 2004, 06:24 AM

#41

Eric Lyublinsky

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TD05HR

Well on thing for sure it's not the tuners fault. There is no detonation or signs of the car runing lean. The head looks clean, just bad luck with havinging a badly cast piston. Good luck man! This could happen to anyone.

Eric

PS do you have a picture of the Cyl wall?

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Dec 13, 2004, 06:27 AM

#42

93civEJ1

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might as well do the rod bolts while you got em out.. hehe.

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Dec 13, 2004, 06:32 AM

#43

thestaton

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That is really outstanding customer service. Makes me proud to sport my two dynoflash.com stickers on my car

Good luck with getting this fixed and getting the beast back on the street!!
Staton

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Dec 13, 2004, 06:33 AM

#44

Az3ar

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 93civEJ1

might as well do the rod bolts while you got em out.. hehe.

yes I agree at least do the rod bolts and the head studs..

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Dec 13, 2004, 06:34 AM

#45

Bimmubishi

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Looking at the first in the series of pictures, it looks like that there was some valve float and possibly some collision between the exhaust valves and the #2 piston.

Maybe the increased lift of the 272s combined with (an increased rev limit?) caused the float. If you look closely at the piston, right above the factory valve reliefs there are two very small pattermarks.

If the piston was very hot and there was a collision at the same time then that could have caused the crack.

Anyone buy into this one? Bump also for a guy that takes great care of his car and is a great mechanic.

Alex
Dent Sport Garage

Last edited by Bimmubishi; Dec 13, 2004 at 06:43 AM.

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