Shifting problems with Evo 8
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Shifting problems with Evo 8
Hi everyone,
I am having problems shifting into either 2nd or 4th gear. I know this is an issue with the shifter...its as if the clutch is neither engaging nor the shift gate is opening. I did glance at a thread that this can be modified and i think it has to do with the clutch pressure or some sort of limiter. I live in So CA and wondering if this issue is covered under warranty if it needs to be fixed ( i bought mine last week) or do I shell out $ to get this done at a tuner/repair shop. I think I have grinded 2nd gear about 3 times now and I'm honestly getting sick of it. Any suggestions can be emailed to me at:
john.kim@losangeles.af.mil
Thanks!
I am having problems shifting into either 2nd or 4th gear. I know this is an issue with the shifter...its as if the clutch is neither engaging nor the shift gate is opening. I did glance at a thread that this can be modified and i think it has to do with the clutch pressure or some sort of limiter. I live in So CA and wondering if this issue is covered under warranty if it needs to be fixed ( i bought mine last week) or do I shell out $ to get this done at a tuner/repair shop. I think I have grinded 2nd gear about 3 times now and I'm honestly getting sick of it. Any suggestions can be emailed to me at:
john.kim@losangeles.af.mil
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by jkim2001
Hi everyone,
I am having problems shifting into either 2nd or 4th gear. I know this is an issue with the shifter...its as if the clutch is neither engaging nor the shift gate is opening. I did glance at a thread that this can be modified and i think it has to do with the clutch pressure or some sort of limiter. I live in So CA and wondering if this issue is covered under warranty if it needs to be fixed ( i bought mine last week) or do I shell out $ to get this done at a tuner/repair shop. I think I have grinded 2nd gear about 3 times now and I'm honestly getting sick of it. Any suggestions can be emailed to me at:
john.kim@losangeles.af.mil
Thanks!
I am having problems shifting into either 2nd or 4th gear. I know this is an issue with the shifter...its as if the clutch is neither engaging nor the shift gate is opening. I did glance at a thread that this can be modified and i think it has to do with the clutch pressure or some sort of limiter. I live in So CA and wondering if this issue is covered under warranty if it needs to be fixed ( i bought mine last week) or do I shell out $ to get this done at a tuner/repair shop. I think I have grinded 2nd gear about 3 times now and I'm honestly getting sick of it. Any suggestions can be emailed to me at:
john.kim@losangeles.af.mil
Thanks!
If you have stock clutch and shifter take it to the dealer and they will fix it. I believe its your 2nd gear syncro.
ehhhh Mitsu is lovely
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Most of the "issues" are experienced by people that are new to this kind of platform (all wheel drive with a inversely mounted transmission.
If you are grinding between shifts, try moving your seat up a couple of notches on the seat slider (sounds stupid, but it works). If this doesn't solve your problem, then you need to just take a bit more time between shifts. Make sure you are completely off the throttle before you press in on the clutch, make sure the clutch is all the way on the floor before you even touch the shifter, make sure you are completely sloted in to the new gear before you release the clutch, make sure you are completely off the clutch pedal before you reapply the gas.
If you are simply missing shifts, like you are having shifter bind, then it is probably due to a mis-throw. You need to pull to the left a slight bit on the shifter as you go from first to second, and the same for third to foruth. It just takes practice, and in time you will "learn" how to shift in this car.
The restrictor valve inside the clutch line is there to prevent clutch drops, and should not have any disadvantage for people who drive this car normaly, but still aggressively. The clutch is designed to handle around 350 torque, so that should be sufficient as well. The only other thing I can think of is the ambient temperature. Perhaps you just need to let the car warm up a bit before you start driving hard. The gear oil found in the transmission needs to be at a good operating temperature before it really starts doing t's job. If it's cold (and not measured by the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster) then it will appear to be notchy between shifts.
These symptoms are common on these tyles of cars, since the shifter is connected to the transmission by cables instead of levers. There is slop in that linkage that will bind slightly if it used a little incorrectly.
I'm not trying to insult your driving ability or your knowledge of cars. I'm just trying to clarify some of the issues that are seen on these cars. Hope it helps some.
If you are grinding between shifts, try moving your seat up a couple of notches on the seat slider (sounds stupid, but it works). If this doesn't solve your problem, then you need to just take a bit more time between shifts. Make sure you are completely off the throttle before you press in on the clutch, make sure the clutch is all the way on the floor before you even touch the shifter, make sure you are completely sloted in to the new gear before you release the clutch, make sure you are completely off the clutch pedal before you reapply the gas.
If you are simply missing shifts, like you are having shifter bind, then it is probably due to a mis-throw. You need to pull to the left a slight bit on the shifter as you go from first to second, and the same for third to foruth. It just takes practice, and in time you will "learn" how to shift in this car.
The restrictor valve inside the clutch line is there to prevent clutch drops, and should not have any disadvantage for people who drive this car normaly, but still aggressively. The clutch is designed to handle around 350 torque, so that should be sufficient as well. The only other thing I can think of is the ambient temperature. Perhaps you just need to let the car warm up a bit before you start driving hard. The gear oil found in the transmission needs to be at a good operating temperature before it really starts doing t's job. If it's cold (and not measured by the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster) then it will appear to be notchy between shifts.
These symptoms are common on these tyles of cars, since the shifter is connected to the transmission by cables instead of levers. There is slop in that linkage that will bind slightly if it used a little incorrectly.
I'm not trying to insult your driving ability or your knowledge of cars. I'm just trying to clarify some of the issues that are seen on these cars. Hope it helps some.
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I usually have grinding/mis-shift issues when I make a 1-2 shift while going around right hand turns at high RPMs. It also seems to happen more frequently after sitting in stop & go traffic. This is a similar issue that I had with my 2001 VW Jetta. Go figure. VW ended up replacing the 2nd gear synchro. in the case of the Evo, the issue is probably caused by a combination of sloppy shifting and that these transmissions don't like really high input shaft speeds.
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Originally Posted by 90GSX-03EVO
Most of the "issues" are experienced by people that are new to this kind of platform (all wheel drive with a inversely mounted transmission.
If you are grinding between shifts, try moving your seat up a couple of notches on the seat slider (sounds stupid, but it works). If this doesn't solve your problem, then you need to just take a bit more time between shifts. Make sure you are completely off the throttle before you press in on the clutch, make sure the clutch is all the way on the floor before you even touch the shifter, make sure you are completely sloted in to the new gear before you release the clutch, make sure you are completely off the clutch pedal before you reapply the gas.
If you are simply missing shifts, like you are having shifter bind, then it is probably due to a mis-throw. You need to pull to the left a slight bit on the shifter as you go from first to second, and the same for third to foruth. It just takes practice, and in time you will "learn" how to shift in this car.
The restrictor valve inside the clutch line is there to prevent clutch drops, and should not have any disadvantage for people who drive this car normaly, but still aggressively. The clutch is designed to handle around 350 torque, so that should be sufficient as well. The only other thing I can think of is the ambient temperature. Perhaps you just need to let the car warm up a bit before you start driving hard. The gear oil found in the transmission needs to be at a good operating temperature before it really starts doing t's job. If it's cold (and not measured by the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster) then it will appear to be notchy between shifts.
These symptoms are common on these tyles of cars, since the shifter is connected to the transmission by cables instead of levers. There is slop in that linkage that will bind slightly if it used a little incorrectly.
I'm not trying to insult your driving ability or your knowledge of cars. I'm just trying to clarify some of the issues that are seen on these cars. Hope it helps some.
If you are grinding between shifts, try moving your seat up a couple of notches on the seat slider (sounds stupid, but it works). If this doesn't solve your problem, then you need to just take a bit more time between shifts. Make sure you are completely off the throttle before you press in on the clutch, make sure the clutch is all the way on the floor before you even touch the shifter, make sure you are completely sloted in to the new gear before you release the clutch, make sure you are completely off the clutch pedal before you reapply the gas.
If you are simply missing shifts, like you are having shifter bind, then it is probably due to a mis-throw. You need to pull to the left a slight bit on the shifter as you go from first to second, and the same for third to foruth. It just takes practice, and in time you will "learn" how to shift in this car.
The restrictor valve inside the clutch line is there to prevent clutch drops, and should not have any disadvantage for people who drive this car normaly, but still aggressively. The clutch is designed to handle around 350 torque, so that should be sufficient as well. The only other thing I can think of is the ambient temperature. Perhaps you just need to let the car warm up a bit before you start driving hard. The gear oil found in the transmission needs to be at a good operating temperature before it really starts doing t's job. If it's cold (and not measured by the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster) then it will appear to be notchy between shifts.
These symptoms are common on these tyles of cars, since the shifter is connected to the transmission by cables instead of levers. There is slop in that linkage that will bind slightly if it used a little incorrectly.
I'm not trying to insult your driving ability or your knowledge of cars. I'm just trying to clarify some of the issues that are seen on these cars. Hope it helps some.
Excellent POST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
17k, Stock clutch and T-Case. Never had a Issue. I do drive like this.
Eric
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The tranny in my '03 feels like crap at cold temps (notchy, can grind ito 2nd on occasion). But once it warms up, or the outside temps are above 40F the tranny feels great.
I also agree completely with what 90GSX-03EVO is saying. Patience and some effort from the driver go a long way.
I also agree completely with what 90GSX-03EVO is saying. Patience and some effort from the driver go a long way.
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Originally Posted by Eric Lyublinsky
Excellent POST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
17k, Stock clutch and T-Case. Never had a Issue. I do drive like this.
Eric
17k, Stock clutch and T-Case. Never had a Issue. I do drive like this.
Eric
Ditto to that. I love AWD cars.
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34,000 miles with no tranny issues.
I'll join the choir and continue to sing -
Tranny must be warm before "hotboxing" =)
You must lift up on the throttle and take your time shifting.
Apply slight pressure to the left doing the 1-2, and exaggerate the 4-5 movement.
Use your fingers and sides of your hands and LIGHT pressure to shift, you will feel the syncros take in the next gear.
You must account for drivetrain movement on hard accel, it takes more timing and just a BIT longer hesitation than you think doing the 1-2.
It becomes a little more tricky turning left or right on hard accel during the 1-2, I think it's got to be due to the movement of the drivetrain, just take it slow.
The Evo has enough power to compensate for "slow" shifts (all AWD cars are like this from my experience).
If you grind or bind....let GO of the shifter, clutch in and give up, don't force it.
The Evo tranny is wonderful, clutch and all. Better feeling than Audi S4 and Subaru.
Feel the Syncros Luke!
I'll join the choir and continue to sing -
Tranny must be warm before "hotboxing" =)
You must lift up on the throttle and take your time shifting.
Apply slight pressure to the left doing the 1-2, and exaggerate the 4-5 movement.
Use your fingers and sides of your hands and LIGHT pressure to shift, you will feel the syncros take in the next gear.
You must account for drivetrain movement on hard accel, it takes more timing and just a BIT longer hesitation than you think doing the 1-2.
It becomes a little more tricky turning left or right on hard accel during the 1-2, I think it's got to be due to the movement of the drivetrain, just take it slow.
The Evo has enough power to compensate for "slow" shifts (all AWD cars are like this from my experience).
If you grind or bind....let GO of the shifter, clutch in and give up, don't force it.
The Evo tranny is wonderful, clutch and all. Better feeling than Audi S4 and Subaru.
Feel the Syncros Luke!
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It is a 2005 Evo 8 GSR. Could it really be bad synchros? If you do a search in the forum, you will see that this may be more common than we think. I find it hard to believe that you would have to hesitate before shifting 1-2 or 3-4.....I've driven hondas, toyotas, and mazdas and I can't think of a time when I missed a shift. I remember test driving an '03 when Evos first came out and this happened when I test drove it. I would hate to admit it is my driving style but I won't tap out until I get the full picture . I did shift my seat around to see if this was an issue since where your foot rests on the clutch can have some sort of impact. To be more specific, it seems the gear would not move into 2nd or 4th as if the shift gate is not opening to allow the gear into place. Try doing this at home with your car in idle....shifting around the gates does not seem as smooth as the name plates mentioned above. Or is it my imagination? To compare, I drove my firend's miata which is not a comparable car but shifting is such a delight. It just feels like the Evo is more quirky and more finicky in shifting. By the way, it is not a temp issue since my car is pretty warmed up by the time it cools ( I live in sunny CA). What do you think guys?
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you could try adjusting the master cylinder rod on the clutch.
that may help. If the rod goes in toward the engine/firewall, that means you're letting the clutch engage faster and dissengage later.
It could very much be your syncro problem. Mitsu TSB syncro problem is known to all dealerships.
That's 2nd gear, 4th gear and fifth. But last time I like to someone at the dealership, they say if you're having syncro problem, the warranty could apply to all gears.
It's always hard to engage the shifter when the transmission and the clutch is cold anyway.
Especially since the weather is so cold now, it take more time for the tranny fluids to warm up.
that may help. If the rod goes in toward the engine/firewall, that means you're letting the clutch engage faster and dissengage later.
It could very much be your syncro problem. Mitsu TSB syncro problem is known to all dealerships.
That's 2nd gear, 4th gear and fifth. But last time I like to someone at the dealership, they say if you're having syncro problem, the warranty could apply to all gears.
It's always hard to engage the shifter when the transmission and the clutch is cold anyway.
Especially since the weather is so cold now, it take more time for the tranny fluids to warm up.
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I think Dr. Merl is right on the ball. Just like you, I've driven a few different stick shift cars. '99 Stangs, Cobras, Eclipse GSX's, and a few others. Not one of these cars felt like the EVO. And when I say felt like the EVO, I'm mainly referring to the solidity and ruggedness of it's transmission... actually, the way the entire vehicle's built. I too grinded a few times towards the beginning of ownership. 1 to 2, 2 to 3, you name it. It takes some getting used to. DrMerl pretty much summed it up in my head. The only thing I can merely add is to make sure you're man handling your EVO. Make sure everything it does it something you wanted it to do. Otherwise, you know it's overpowering you, which then might cause a few errors.