TomeiEvo

You're right, I've checked out the dyno and indeed is the newer dyno with 2 equal sized black rollers. Whats the difference in hp between this and the older Dynojet that most in the states have?
Any suggestion to make more power like bigger 660cc injectors? I like to know cause if its not going to be any better with the injectors on the AFC then I'll just leave it as it is and not bother trying to hard..

AlexJDM

Both the stock and Ralliart ECUs are tuned for 100 oct Jap gas. However I know of many Evos running these ECUs on local 97 RON without issues. Your Tomei should be fine although I would rather run a standalone EMS, or F-Con S at the very least.

What cam gears and settings are you running?

eve-slow

iTrader: (68)

Since the dyno is in a different country it probably has different correction factors. That could be the #1 reason that it reads a little low. Drag trap speed is a good indicator of power.

It is very possible that you arent running enough timing causing power to die off. But if you lean out your AFC the knock sensor will read higher which wont help with power.

Im not sure how this is done on non USDM models, but try looking for an OBD2 scanner, so you can actually know how much the timing is advanced.

BadazzCR

iTrader: (5)

The newer dynojet tends to read about 10-15 hp lower.

TC4G63

Thats a no-brainer, I just put down 308whp/300wtrq on a DD dyno without cams. You really need to ditch the SAFC (I picked up ~20whp just doing that), get a reflash, and open up the breathing on the car and go 3" all the way back, why keep the restriction?

TC4G63

You haven't even maxed out the injectors you have now, you need a tune and a 3"TB

rt turbo

iTrader: (4)

the 1st thing that jumped out at me is the 2.5 inch piping. 3" will give better numbers, but only about 5-8 whp difference.

2nd thing that caught my eye is your sard regulator. you have a reflash with the tomie right? it is really hard to reflash an ecu with a FPR. they react much differently than a stock FPR. Also, you may not have it set right? I ran into this problem because im trying to get dynoflashed, and Al said its not ganna return the results as with the stock unit. I am selling it now and going back to stock. unless your running large injectors with a large turbo, you shouldnt need an FPR.

with your results, i think you got a good bit of power considering you have yet to upgrade your injectors. at 22 psi, you have got to be at the limits of your 560cc's stockers... you might want to upgrade soon, i bet your duty cycle is so high they are stuck open at wot.

rt turbo

iTrader: (4)

yes, you need larger injectors. if you are adding fuel with the safc, you have alot to improve. when you reduce your injector duty cycle, you will gain power. but mostly is the torque increase. having a fuel setup that can meet the demands of the air is where alot of power can be found. in your case it will free some up.

TomeiEvo

Thanks for the feedback. Really helps a lot. Car's pulling much harder at the top with the 3 inch downpipe.

Gonna try running the 660's as soon as they come in and retune the AFC on the dyno but yeah since the power is alright with the stock injectors, I'll just keep the AFC then..

rt turbo

iTrader: (4)

trust me, youl notice a difference.

umiami80

iTrader: (1)

I have 350WHP, you need tuning, The Guy In florida, you need tuning as well, the stock injectors flow enough for 400WHP, get some tuning.

TomeiEvo

400 WHP??? I dun think so.. 350 WHP on a 4wd Dynojet is still believably acceptable for stock turbo and injectors, I dun wanna belt my stock turbo to death pushing it past its efficiency..No point having great power and short life on everything else.. I know guys on this forum that claims close to that WHP on race gas but we dun drive on race gas everyday and with the sort of weather we have here, I ain't gonna push my car till its death....Might as well go for a bigger turbocharger setup on a stand alone ecu...

rt, I'll try using the 660's like what the Buschur guys are doing, think that will give me the power band I want..guess, I've got the assurance now....

TomeiEvo

I've done the 3 inch front pipe and cat delete pipe last week over the 2.5, and as I said made hell of a difference in the top end but yet to dyno the results..
The Tomei ecu is basically a reflash just like the Dynoflash, without it I barely made 240 WHP on the dyno and it was absolutely impossible to tune the AFC, the car would misfire and the ecu kept changing its maps and I would not get anything more than that. Before the ecu, I had the HKS cams, tubular exhaust manifold, exhaust system, AFC, fuel pump and air intake...did nothing for power on the AFC.. picked up 60 WHP alone on the ecu after that but only used the AFC to fine tune the AF ratio to 11.5...However, I only found out that the AFC has a disadvantage in retarding timing if fuel is added... I really need to post my dyno sheet so that more comments can be made on it... I like to try removing the AFC but since I have a fuel pressure regulator, I dunno whether it should be set at 3 bar no vacuum or 3.5 bar with vacuum...

rt turbo

iTrader: (4)

thats actually what im going to, i found that 880s are too big... but i did have a turbo upgrade.. now i have to sell the car.


to the other guy, the 550s cannot do 400whp. they are good for 400hp at the crank, thats maxed out, and would be like 310-320 whp... also, you take risk in frying things.

TomeiEvo

Which turbo did you had on it and is yours on an AFC and flash as well?