ringovero

Everytime I'm driving in bumper-to-bumper traffic my EVO stalls and it's driving me INSANE!!! Here are the details:

1- I put the car into 1st, and move about 6-8 feet.

2- I press the clutch, and put the car in neutral.

3- I brake to a complete stop.

Once I have let go of the gas, even with the clutch fully pressed down ( tried it both ways) the RPM's drop to ~500 and the car bogs. Sometimes it turns off, sometimes it doesn't. All the lights come on on my instrument panel...looks like a Cockpit.

I just finished replacing the shortblock on my car, and it's been doing that ever since. The Mitsu Tech at my dealership said it was B/C the Evo has a performance clutch, it's normal. I don't know if'll buy that b/c I drove my car for 6 weeks before my engine went out, and It never stalled on me like that.

The car is pretty much Stock, except for a AEM SRAM Intake, a Clutch Line, and a couple of Greddy Gauges.

Please help .....

YellowFever

iTrader: (24)

its ur intake my friend - u have to tune it.

evolife04

iTrader: (9)

check your mass air sensor. i had mine act up everytime i closed my hood on the car want to stall. make sure the senor is not hitting on something. check for vacum leak things like that. hope it helps

MYEVOVIII

iTrader: (35)

Ditto

evo81

iTrader: (30)

i'm thinking the same thing

Dr. Fob

iTrader: (5)

I can't believe the technician told you that was normal. Whoever said this should be fired...

I agree with the above. It's most likely your intake/MAF sensor. Try cleaning it or something. Also, check if there's leak around your BOV, and then reset your ECU.

BuLocal

iTrader: (4)

No aftermarket bov?

wingless

iTrader: (15)

I'm still learning myself, but it sounds like you are describing the symtoms of: low manifold pressure.

At the stock tune an my evo would idle hapily a -.60 bar and start to stall out at about -.45 bar. Remember when you hit the brakes you will draw vacum as well and make it worse. (1bar = 1 atmosphere= like 14psi (I think)

It can be cuased by: any vacum lines lose or leaking , blow off valves or recircs with too stiff a spring, intakes, cams, or boost leaks like holes in your IC etc.

If it's a mod it can usually be tuned for...Intake, bov,cams. Good luck

Widebandphillip

iTrader: (1)

I seriously doubt an intake would cause that kind of problem. Most likely some sort of vaccum leak.

Deca Auto

iTrader: (11)

Its the BOV. I always thought it was my AEM intake bc I'm recirculating but I was just fooling myself. It was always the stupid BOV.

marksae

iTrader: (12)

Put the stock intake back on. Repeat the same driving conditions. If it goes away, it's the intake. If it's still the same, check the BOV.

black evil evo

my IAC valve has been replaced under warranty once already and it starting to stall again

g0tb00st

i'd check your maf and bov. like others have stated, clean the maf and make sure your bov isn't leaking.

GBEvo

iTrader: (4)

Pretty sure its the intake. Do a search on intakes and stalling and you'll find there are lots of people having these problems including me. The increased air via the intake messes with the maf on the evos and they end up stalling in these conditions. The HKS EIDES or a flash will help fix the problem. I have no vacuum leaks and the stock BOV and mine still stalled with just the intake. I know people who have this problem with a bunch of different intakes, K&N, AEM, HKS, etc.

ringovero

Wow, Thanks for the suggestions.

What I suspect is causing it to stall, based on your suggestions is probably due to a vaccum leak. While my new shortblock was being installed, I asked Mitsu to remove my boost controller. They did, and then they told me that my boost gauge would not read accurately b/c the sensor was in the vaccum connection of the Electronic Boost controller (greddy Profec II- B-spec).

Well, it wouldn't register past .3 MB. Couple of days later I began to hear a leaking noise, so I took the car to Mitsu. The tech said it was a leak from the boost controller hose, and he said he'd cap it. He did, and the leaking stopped.

After that, my Boost Gauge is more sensitive. If i let go of the gas it drops to 775 mmg, when Im' cruising ( low RPM's) it sets around 500 mmg to 0. Then when I get "Crazy" It'll peak at around .9 MB, But it never quite reaches near the 1.3-1.4 That I'm expecting out of a car that has a peak boost of 19 psi.

I'm also having trouble getting "quick " starts w/ the car, it just bogs, then takes off when turbo spools around 3500 RPM's

BTW, If it is the Mass Air Sensor, what should I clean it with, and where is it located?

Also, How do u find air/vaccum leaks??

Thank YOU!!!!