smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

i had my clutch installed Exedy triple carbon and 250 miles into my break-in on the hwy, i thought i heard a tornado siren, it kept getting louder and louder. the noise persisted until i got to the mitshu. dealer in another state. ( i was going on vacation) I had the redline shock proof taken out and the front diff fluid changed also. the noise persisted. i have many a friend in the mitshubishi "family" racers and service people. all told me it was comming from the tranny. i had the tranny redone, new gears, syncros etc... the dealership told me the whining under acceleration was because the 3rd gear "housing" or input shaft came loose and was rubbing on the transmission casing. the tranny was put in and on the way home when i hit 75mph the same intensity of the whine returned. it wasnt my tranny afterall, it is my tc. if i put in the syncromesh i wouldnt have this problem today, DONT PUT ANYTHING ELSE IN THE TC, unless you want to tell a boo-hoo story like mine. and make sure the problem is not misdiagnosed in the first place, especially if your out of warranty and have to shell out cash to fix a part that is not the part that needs to be fixed. my problem is only under load (acceleration) my car is modded and loud, but i'm pretty sure it doesnt happen on decelleration (under no load). you can call me or pm me if you need help with a diagnosis prob, i'll give my 2cents.

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

I think mY TC coud be gone too. HOw can I check and what are the symtoms?? Is the sound loud enough to drown out the radio?


Thanks.

smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

yes it initally was louder than the radio, then i changed the fluids and it got slightly less noisey. now when i talk on the cell phone in the car, the people whom im talking to can hear it, and i've had people drive next to me on the hwy and they can hear it also. did you ever put any other fluid in the tc? it has to be changed at least every4-5K miles. the noise persists as long as my foot is on the gas, as soon as my foot is off gas the noise is gone (or unnoticable)

GEARS

iTrader: (5)

Actually you don't want Synchromesh in the transfer case, Synchromesh gear oils lack the EP (extreme pressure) additives that protect ring & pinion gears from wearing out.

In the transfer case and rear differential you must use a GL-5 "Hypoid" type gear oil. The transfer case features hypoid gears to transmit that power to the drive shaft. The word hypoid is short for hyperboloid which refers to the design of these gears. All you need to know is that hypoid gears; don’t share a common axis, run quiet (for the most part) and they are a strong design. Yet by design the gear teeth must slide across one another during their meshing and this is why you must us a GL-5 Hypoid type gear oil in the transfer case and rear end, you need that slippery oil here. Use the wrong oil and the transfer case will start howling and growling within a couple tanks of gas. To make matters worse, the transfer case ring & pinion gears intersect quite a bit from one another and is called a high angle hypoid and these types of hypoids really need a lot of EP additives in the oil, which synchromesh oils do not possess enough of. The reason Mitsubishi chose a high angle is to tuck driveshaft up under the car for better ground clearance for that WRC stuff that they NEED to get their ***** back into again and soon.

Mitsubishi specifies the Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil in the transfer case and rear end of the EVOs. This oil is a single viscosity, 90 weight, and the part number is #377610.

If you can’t find this oil you must find a gear oil that meets the GL-5 Hypoid specification. Again this oil must ONLY meet GL-5 preferably 90 weight. Do not use a gear oil that claims to be GL-3, 4 & 5. These one size fits all type oils are not recommended and don't work any better than a one heat range fits all spark plug.

Also keep this in mind when you purchase an oil; multi viscosity index modifiers and dyes both reduce the film strength of the oil. They take up valuable parking spaces on the molecular level and that’s what the transfer case and rear end both need more of, film strength. Think of it as a scratch on a piece of glass, that's where it'll fail.

There are several brands of oil on the market and you can use any of them as long as it meets Mitsubishi's requirements and you change it often enough. I'd change it every 2500-5000 miles just to be safe.

Jon@TRE

megatron

iTrader: (6)

doesn't lancershop carry diaqueen for the transfer case?

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

best answer i've ever seen posted.

EVIL_EVO_VIII

iTrader: (5)

Jon at TRE is awesome, he knows alot about this! I spoke to him on the phone for 45 mins about some rear diff noises i was getting and explained alot of things i didnt know. Thanks Jon

smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

i will be taking my T.C to jon at TRE next week, will keep you posted, im sure he will do an a-1 job. he knows his stuff.

GOKOU

iTrader: (2)

SO your TC is out or are you planning to do it in one day?

JDM-Spec.com

iTrader: (7)

100% TC...... trust me I know

evo_08

iTrader: (1)

im on my 3rd one also.this may help there is a cover with 4 screws on the tc drain the oil and take the cover off if you have a lot of metal shavings the shims are gone

megatron

iTrader: (6)

so the dealership actually replaced youre transfer cases twice? was your car stock when you brought it to them?

smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

My TC is still in the car, and i am still driving it, I turn the radio up so i cant hear it as much. call Jon at TRE, he says he has spider gears that he can put in the TC which he says havent been broken yet...........does this mean i wont be going through 2-4 TC's? i hope-so. Thanks for the headsup on how to check for shavings inthe TC.

MattGold

iTrader: (45)

Just wanted to add a couple of my cents to the pot.

1) Jon at TRE *IS* an awesome guy! My tranny / T-case is there right now... Should be picking it up on Tuesday.

2) Regarding the noise that you're hearing - If it sounds like a tornado siren it's probably not the clutch causing it, but there are some things you should know about when replacig your stock clutch.

The OEM clutch disc employs what Exedy calls (and has the patent on) a Wide Angle Dampner (WAD). A WAD is the center "hub" of the clutch disc - the piece of the clutch the friction material is connected to and which houses the springs. The technology is in, and under that plate. That technology is aq series of springs and dampers that allow the clutch to move approx. 35 degrees either direction while under load. What this does is absorb shock and enigne harmonics from the drivetrain which cause noise in the gearbox.

We have a good video describing it in detail (http://www.exedyusa.com/technical/movies.shtml)...

HOWEVER, when you goto a performance clutch, you forego this "comfort" and therefor hear many noises that were initially absorbed.

Point being, if you are hearing noises after replacing the stock clutch, it may be more natural than you think... There'sanother thread that didn't get a lot of attention, with a poll found here (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=clutch+noise).

Good luck, and hope this sheds some light on your situation.

4ringturncoat

iTrader: (21)

Hey Matt,

I had Jon adjust my clutch last week and we still can't get it to completly dissengauge. When the plates are floating do they come in contact with pp and floater plate to transfer some of the angular movment to the clutch plates causing the input shaft to turn? Jon showed me a little tick for getting the trans inbetween the syncros to see if there is any turning of the input shaft when the pedel is full depressed, mine does stay partially engauged. BTW, Jon is the man for these cars!