Flywheels...
Mar 1, 2005, 12:01 PM
#1
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Flywheels...
What's the story about replacing the flywheel? Should it be done if doing a high performance clutch? Are flywheels matched to the clutches?
Mar 1, 2005, 12:18 PM
#2
According to GranTurismo descriptions... some of the lighter flywheels allow quicker response due to less mass and u get to the powerband quicker, but at a loss of some power in the upper rpms. You feel this especially when going uphill! 
I might have to get back to you on that cause the game is at home right now and i'm at work. 
I might have to get back to you on that cause the game is at home right now and i'm at work.
Mar 1, 2005, 12:25 PM
#4
From http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo/nonameclutch.htm
Light Flywheels
Ask the Peanut Gallery on your local message board about using a lightweight flywheel and some ex-honda boy will chime in that you will loose horsepower or torque with a light flywheel. WTF? Wrong. While you will need to slightly adjust your launch technique with a lighter flywheel, you will not loose torque or horsepower. A flywheel simply stores energy. The mass of spinning steel just makes it a little easier for your mom to get the car moving with out stalling the motor. The stock EVO flywheel is already fairly light at 14.4 lbs. We offer the 9.6 lb Fidanza aluminum flywheel and also our own No Name 10.6 lb steel flywheel. Get one at the same time as the clutch and we give a $50 discount. It's all good. With less horsepower used to get the flywheel spinning, that leaves more horsepower available to get the car moving down the road. Since our cars have plenty of power to spare, you don't need the stored energy of a heavy flywheel to get your EVO moving.
Ask the Peanut Gallery on your local message board about using a lightweight flywheel and some ex-honda boy will chime in that you will loose horsepower or torque with a light flywheel. WTF? Wrong. While you will need to slightly adjust your launch technique with a lighter flywheel, you will not loose torque or horsepower. A flywheel simply stores energy. The mass of spinning steel just makes it a little easier for your mom to get the car moving with out stalling the motor. The stock EVO flywheel is already fairly light at 14.4 lbs. We offer the 9.6 lb Fidanza aluminum flywheel and also our own No Name 10.6 lb steel flywheel. Get one at the same time as the clutch and we give a $50 discount. It's all good. With less horsepower used to get the flywheel spinning, that leaves more horsepower available to get the car moving down the road. Since our cars have plenty of power to spare, you don't need the stored energy of a heavy flywheel to get your EVO moving.
Mar 1, 2005, 12:45 PM
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It depends a lot on the condition of your current flywheel. It's not a necessary change, but if you have to replace it, then you may as well lighten things up a bit. Also, it's a lot of work to replace the clutch, so I think as long as you're in there... I have put in 2 different lighter flywheels - Fidanza and ProStreet. The Fidanza with a 6-puck, which was tough to drive in traffic/toll booths/starting uphill, etc. Now I've got a Spec Stage2 (full face w/Kevlar) and the Prostreet flywheel and it's a perfect middle ground. Holds up to 400lb/ft also, which is good...
Mar 1, 2005, 05:56 PM
#7
Cool,
I'm leaning towards an ACT with the ProStreet chromo flywheel as well. Good to hear it works well.
FB
I'm leaning towards an ACT with the ProStreet chromo flywheel as well. Good to hear it works well.
FB
Originally Posted by SterlingEvo
It depends a lot on the condition of your current flywheel. It's not a necessary change, but if you have to replace it, then you may as well lighten things up a bit. Also, it's a lot of work to replace the clutch, so I think as long as you're in there... I have put in 2 different lighter flywheels - Fidanza and ProStreet. The Fidanza with a 6-puck, which was tough to drive in traffic/toll booths/starting uphill, etc. Now I've got a Spec Stage2 (full face w/Kevlar) and the Prostreet flywheel and it's a perfect middle ground. Holds up to 400lb/ft also, which is good...
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Mar 2, 2005, 12:43 AM
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Every clutch we have replaced that was slipping was due to the stock flywheel warping. It is light but thin and when putting a true bar across the surface, they are bowing with concavity. You can also see the heat penetrate through the backside.
We don't recommend resurfacing them when doing a clutch job anymore. We recommend our Spin lightened flywheel which is the last flywheel you'll ever have to buy (replacable wear ring) and is on sale right now.
http://www.worksevo.com/store/index.php?cPath=32_22
We don't recommend resurfacing them when doing a clutch job anymore. We recommend our Spin lightened flywheel which is the last flywheel you'll ever have to buy (replacable wear ring) and is on sale right now.
http://www.worksevo.com/store/index.php?cPath=32_22
Mar 2, 2005, 07:10 AM
#9
If the stock steel flywheel is warping according to your experience then what would lead you to beleive that a lighter Aluminum (aluminum is known to warp and distort much faster than any other metal under heat) flywheel would be able to withstand more heat? I recommend the stock flywheel for its heat capacity and its already light weight.
Mar 4, 2005, 07:55 AM
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I just read in a magazine that the achilles heal of the evo is the stock flywheel and not so much the clutch at all. The flywheel heats up so quickly that the clutch will just grenade. I believe it was "import tuner" but i am not 100% sure. The article mentions that flywheel has a design flaw which doesnt allow the heat to dissipate the way it should, therfore, the clutch gets overheated and begins to slip. bummer
Mar 4, 2005, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mattsevo
I just read in a magazine that the achilles heal of the evo is the stock flywheel and not so much the clutch at all. The flywheel heats up so quickly that the clutch will just grenade. I believe it was "import tuner" but i am not 100% sure. The article mentions that flywheel has a design flaw which doesnt allow the heat to dissipate the way it should, therfore, the clutch gets overheated and begins to slip. bummer
Mar 4, 2005, 07:59 AM
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I forgot to mention that I had an 03 Evo and went threw one clutch and two transfer cases(due to launching...oops). Sold the car a year ago but havent felt the same in any other car since owning the evo. God damn Mitsubishi is going to get my money once again because I have decided to buy an 05 RS next week. I wont be launching this car...well.
Mar 4, 2005, 08:01 AM
#13
Originally Posted by superz
If the stock steel flywheel is warping according to your experience then what would lead you to beleive that a lighter Aluminum (aluminum is known to warp and distort much faster than any other metal under heat) flywheel would be able to withstand more heat? I recommend the stock flywheel for its heat capacity and its already light weight.
The heat characteristics is why I'm leaning towards a chromo flywheel like the Prostreet. I believe RRE has one as well?
I had an ACT cluch and Spoon chromo flywheel in my all motor Integra GSR and it was schweeeeet.
Take care,
FB
Mar 15, 2005, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SterlingEvo
It depends a lot on the condition of your current flywheel. It's not a necessary change, but if you have to replace it, then you may as well lighten things up a bit. Also, it's a lot of work to replace the clutch, so I think as long as you're in there... I have put in 2 different lighter flywheels - Fidanza and ProStreet. The Fidanza with a 6-puck, which was tough to drive in traffic/toll booths/starting uphill, etc. Now I've got a Spec Stage2 (full face w/Kevlar) and the Prostreet flywheel and it's a perfect middle ground. Holds up to 400lb/ft also, which is good...
Here is more info for people interested:
http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/p...els/ps-00-evo/
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