Tackling the clutch install tommorow, any last words of wisdom.??
Mar 11, 2005, 05:01 AM
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: TN
Posts: 2,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tackling the clutch install tommorow, any last words of wisdom.??
As stated above, Im tackling the clutch install tommorow. Any last words of advice?
Mar 11, 2005, 05:22 AM
#2
Hi, I had mine done last week by a "Certified Pro" in one of the top shops in Denver. He said that it wasn't something he'd ever want to do on jack stands.
IMPORTANT: He also said somwthing to this effect:
The throw out bearing needs to come of before anything else, ??? to get the rest it off.
Just be aware of that possibility.
The shop also commented on the fact that they thought that the fly wheel was of German (or at least European) design. They hadn't seen those kind of shavings from turning the Fly wheel in 40 years. They were quite impressed. They build muscle cars, and have a NAPA repair Center, so they have seen a few cars over the years.
Good luck, have an alternate means of transportation ready just incase you get in a bind.
I got 3 bids on mine $250 from a DSM shop that hadn't done a EVO yet, $525 from a shop that had done 2 or so they said and thought that I needed to replace 2 "O" rings in the job and drain some fluid (neither of which had to happen, as far as I know) and $650 by that shop that I mentioned.
They thanked me for the chance to learn about the Evo, thought it was really a cool car, and they would NEVER TOUCH ONE AGAIN FOR ANYWHERE NEAR THAT PRICE
:-D
Cost of living is stoopid high in Denver
Dean
IMPORTANT: He also said somwthing to this effect:
The throw out bearing needs to come of before anything else, ??? to get the rest it off.
Just be aware of that possibility.
The shop also commented on the fact that they thought that the fly wheel was of German (or at least European) design. They hadn't seen those kind of shavings from turning the Fly wheel in 40 years. They were quite impressed. They build muscle cars, and have a NAPA repair Center, so they have seen a few cars over the years.
Good luck, have an alternate means of transportation ready just incase you get in a bind.
I got 3 bids on mine $250 from a DSM shop that hadn't done a EVO yet, $525 from a shop that had done 2 or so they said and thought that I needed to replace 2 "O" rings in the job and drain some fluid (neither of which had to happen, as far as I know) and $650 by that shop that I mentioned.
They thanked me for the chance to learn about the Evo, thought it was really a cool car, and they would NEVER TOUCH ONE AGAIN FOR ANYWHERE NEAR THAT PRICE
:-D
Cost of living is stoopid high in Denver
Dean
Last edited by nirvevo; Mar 11, 2005 at 05:26 AM. Reason: can't spell or type
Mar 11, 2005, 05:28 AM
#3
Evolved Member
iTrader: (70)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: La Isla Del Encanto
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by nirvevo
Hi, I had mine done last week by a "Certified Pro" in one of the top shops in Denver. He said that it wasn't something he'd ever want to do on jack stands.
IMPORTANT: He also said somwthing to this effect:
The throw out bearing needs to come of before anything else, ??? to get the rest it off.
Just be aware of that possibility.
The shop also commented on the fact that they thought that the fly wheel was of German (or at least European) design. They hadn't seen those kind of shavings from turning the Fly wheel in 40 years. They were quite impressed. They build muscle cars, and have a NAPA repair Center, so they have seen a few cars over the years.
Good luck, have an alternate means of transportation ready just incase you get in a bind.
I got 3 bids on mine $250 from a DSM shop that hadn't done a EVO yet, $525 from a shop that had done 2 or so they said and thought that I needed to replace 2 "O" rings in the job and drain some fluid (neither of which had to happen, as far as I know) and $650 by that shop that I mentioned.
They thanked me for the chance to learn about the Evo, thought it was really a cool car, and they would NEVER TOUCH ONE AGAIN FOR ANYWHERE NEAR THAT PRICE
:-D
Cost of living is stoopid high in Denver
Dean
IMPORTANT: He also said somwthing to this effect:
The throw out bearing needs to come of before anything else, ??? to get the rest it off.
Just be aware of that possibility.
The shop also commented on the fact that they thought that the fly wheel was of German (or at least European) design. They hadn't seen those kind of shavings from turning the Fly wheel in 40 years. They were quite impressed. They build muscle cars, and have a NAPA repair Center, so they have seen a few cars over the years.
Good luck, have an alternate means of transportation ready just incase you get in a bind.
I got 3 bids on mine $250 from a DSM shop that hadn't done a EVO yet, $525 from a shop that had done 2 or so they said and thought that I needed to replace 2 "O" rings in the job and drain some fluid (neither of which had to happen, as far as I know) and $650 by that shop that I mentioned.
They thanked me for the chance to learn about the Evo, thought it was really a cool car, and they would NEVER TOUCH ONE AGAIN FOR ANYWHERE NEAR THAT PRICE
:-D
Cost of living is stoopid high in Denver
Dean
Mar 11, 2005, 05:31 AM
#5
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: TN
Posts: 2,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by VTECH8TR
I did mine on jackstands and it wasn't as bad as you are saying. The hardest thing is liing up the transmission back up after replacing the clutch. The best thing to have if doing it on your own is a cherry picker. Borrow one from a friend, it will make it alot easier to align backup.
nope there will be 2-4 of use doing it. We are gonna tackle the clutch and throw my Helix piping on in the process.
Mar 11, 2005, 05:37 AM
#6
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: TN
Posts: 2,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 93civEJ1
nope there will be 2-4 of use doing it. We are gonna tackle the clutch and throw my Helix piping on in the process.
Also I have everything ready to go. Fluids, service manual files, slide hammer ( but the tip has a standard thread on it, is there some kind of adapter i need to get for the threaded end of it?
Mar 11, 2005, 05:40 AM
#7
Evolved Member
iTrader: (70)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: La Isla Del Encanto
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 93civEJ1
nope there will be 2-4 of use doing it. We are gonna tackle the clutch and throw my Helix piping on in the process.
Trending Topics
Mar 11, 2005, 12:43 PM
#10
Originally Posted by VTECH8TR
I did mine on jackstands and it wasn't as bad as you are saying. The hardest thing is liing up the transmission back up after replacing the clutch. The best thing to have if doing it on your own is a cherry picker. Borrow one from a friend, it will make it alot easier to align backup.
Mar 11, 2005, 12:51 PM
#11
Remember to make sure you have the o-rings on the t-case, if you drop one you will have leaks. I suggest no engine hoist, use a jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood. This would facilitate moving the engine up and down easier. Make sure you dont hit the pressure plate throw out bearing spring with the tranny, if you do it will eventually snap off while you're driving. I have never done one on the floor, nor would I ever, but good luck and try lets see if you can beat my record of 2 hours to replace the clutch, 
Good luck 
Good luck
Last edited by superz; Mar 11, 2005 at 01:20 PM.
Mar 11, 2005, 01:06 PM
#14
Evolving Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Gainesville, Fl
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In keeping with the TO bearing advice, you have to wedge something between the shift fork and the block to fullt depress the TO bearing to the pressure palte before it can some out. It took me a long time to figure this out, as the manual is not very descriptive on this.
Mar 11, 2005, 01:09 PM
#15
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: TN
Posts: 2,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by clappton
In keeping with the TO bearing advice, you have to wedge something between the shift fork and the block to fullt depress the TO bearing to the pressure palte before it can some out. It took me a long time to figure this out, as the manual is not very descriptive on this.
what kind of something did you guys use? Ive got a slide hammer ready, but the tip of it is not right for the axel pulling, what kind of adapter or what did you rig up with the slide hammer?