As stated above, Im tackling the clutch install tommorow. Any last words of advice?

 

Hi, I had mine done last week by a "Certified Pro" in one of the top shops in Denver. He said that it wasn't something he'd ever want to do on jack stands.

IMPORTANT: He also said somwthing to this effect:
The throw out bearing needs to come of before anything else, ??? to get the rest it off.

Just be aware of that possibility.

The shop also commented on the fact that they thought that the fly wheel was of German (or at least European) design. They hadn't seen those kind of shavings from turning the Fly wheel in 40 years. They were quite impressed. They build muscle cars, and have a NAPA repair Center, so they have seen a few cars over the years.

Good luck, have an alternate means of transportation ready just incase you get in a bind.

I got 3 bids on mine $250 from a DSM shop that hadn't done a EVO yet, $525 from a shop that had done 2 or so they said and thought that I needed to replace 2 "O" rings in the job and drain some fluid (neither of which had to happen, as far as I know) and $650 by that shop that I mentioned.

They thanked me for the chance to learn about the Evo, thought it was really a cool car, and they would NEVER TOUCH ONE AGAIN FOR ANYWHERE NEAR THAT PRICE
:-D

Cost of living is stoopid high in Denver
Dean

 

I did mine on jackstands and it wasn't as bad as you are saying. The hardest thing is liing up the transmission back up after replacing the clutch. The best thing to have if doing it on your own is a cherry picker. Borrow one from a friend, it will make it alot easier to align backup.

 

May da "Schwartz" be with you.

 

nope there will be 2-4 of use doing it. We are gonna tackle the clutch and throw my Helix piping on in the process.

 

Also I have everything ready to go. Fluids, service manual files, slide hammer ( but the tip has a standard thread on it, is there some kind of adapter i need to get for the threaded end of it?

 

You are going to need all the help you can get. Just make sure to release the TO bearing before trying to pull on the tranny. Smart move on the fluids, i called around 20 dealerships for the Diaqueen LSD oil and only 1 place had it in stock. Of course they were far away, but i went and bought it and it turned out great. The ACT clutch is perfect. I put down 400 to the wheels at Topspeed and after 50 dyno pulls the clutch feels like new still.

 

Yes im stocked up on the Pennz Synchromesh, and I have half a jug of Diaqueen left from the Metal Jug I purchased a while back.

 

more?

 

i've done the install.this sounds right^.get a engine hoist.it'll be easier to get the tranny back in.the clutch install is very is.i keep hearing how hard it is,it's not.it does take time though. if your clutch spline doesn't line up with your one in the tranny when you put it back in some how,just remember you can turn it until it lines up when you have the tranny almost there using the same area where you turn the engine on the passager side.

 

Remember to make sure you have the o-rings on the t-case, if you drop one you will have leaks. I suggest no engine hoist, use a jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood. This would facilitate moving the engine up and down easier. Make sure you dont hit the pressure plate throw out bearing spring with the tranny, if you do it will eventually snap off while you're driving. I have never done one on the floor, nor would I ever, but good luck and try lets see if you can beat my record of 2 hours to replace the clutch, Good luck

 

I would never attempt that from the floor. Hell I don't think I'd try it at all lol.. unless I had a lot of time and a lift

Goodluck!

 

thanks guys. Oh it will be done.

 

In keeping with the TO bearing advice, you have to wedge something between the shift fork and the block to fullt depress the TO bearing to the pressure palte before it can some out. It took me a long time to figure this out, as the manual is not very descriptive on this.

 

what kind of something did you guys use? Ive got a slide hammer ready, but the tip of it is not right for the axel pulling, what kind of adapter or what did you rig up with the slide hammer?