bolsen

iTrader: (2)

What's the mileage to re-torque head studs?

At that point, is the idea to do a re-torque to 70ft# then another 90 degree turn or JUST torque to 70ft#?

bolsen

iTrader: (2)

Up up and awaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay!

cruizinmax

If your using the arp's you don't do the extra 90 degree thing. That would be for the stock head bolts. Also from what I've heard most shops are torquing them higher than 70ft-lbs. More like 85.

bolsen

iTrader: (2)

Yea, I know that's a big debate. I guess I should contact ARP and see what they say.

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

You run them to like 50 ft lbs all in the correct order. Then you back all off in the correct order. Then you pull them down to 85ft lbs. Cycle check them several times to make sure they are all torqued to spec. Put everything back together start the car let it warm up to normal temp then turn off and do your compression checks and things then recheck the torque on them. After the car is started do not loosen them, only tighten them if they are needed.

There are several methods that you could use. This is how I did them on my headgasket change. I first only torqued them to 70ft lbs and I pushed oil out around the head so I pulled it all apart to do it again right.

The biggest tip you can be given are clean out the threads before putting in the new bolts and make sure they are dry. Don't just drop them in becuase oil will be in the holes.

use2vtec

iTrader: (4)

I just bought some and I plan to install them like so: Take them out one at a time in reverse order. After pulling one factory headbolt, put in a ARP stud and torqe it to 50 ft. lbs (starting on the outside and working my way in). After I have all the studs in and torqued at 50 I will torque them all in order (inside to outside of head). For the third and final cylce I will torque them at 85 ft. lbs, and then recheck all of them at 85 ft. lbs. Can anyone tell me if what I just posted sounds right. Thanks

-Leonard

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

Sorry to misslead if you do them one at a time run them to 70ftlbs until they are all done then pull them down to 85 on your final torque cycle change. Then recheck several times. There is a thread on this in the How to installs section. My post above was for a new headgasket replacement. I would highly recommend using the arp install without head removal thread.

bolsen

iTrader: (2)

That's the thread I used to do the install, and I had some questions about it.

I can't imagine that oil would be a problem, since arp says you can use 10w if you don't use their lube. (I used theirs) But why would it be an issue if there was also oil in it? If it is a big issue, how the heck do you get the oil out? I suppose I could use the suction gun with a smaller tube...

bolsen

iTrader: (2)

But for the one at a time method, are you saying, as you install the studs, torque them to ~50#. Then once you replace all the studs, start with #1... loosen, then torque to 85#?

Method sounds good, but my original torque is 70. So what I might do, is just keep it as is, start with #1... loosen, then torque to 85#

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

Keep in mind you have to clean out the block threads becuase if you get oil down in them it will skew your torque amounts and it will also have pressure behind the bolts. Somthing you do want in the threads of the block. These threads need to be completely clean and dry.

When it talks about using oil or the moly lube this is on the theads for the nut and washer on top of the head not in the block. You need to have some sort of lube on them so you can get accurate smooth torque values as close as possible. I suggest you use the lube, don't use oil unless you just have too especially synthetics. The bolts will be more likley to come loose over time with oil and the values won't be as close per bolt. The Moly lube supplied was developed for all of these reasons.

If you are doing one bolt at a time I would suggest to start in the center of the head on the back side with bolt number one and pull the stock bolt out, clean/dry the threads, check the threads, run a good clean dry arp bolt down into the block and tighten it hand tight (Snug) to make sure you get to the bottom, slip the washer on the stud, then load the inside of the nut with the moly lube then tighten down to 70ft lbs. (Remember when torque a bolt use a clean motion and good wrench)

Repeat this on each bolt until you are done. Once you have all bolts in and at 70ft lbs then torque all bolts down to 85 ftlbs right away OR put the car back together do a warm up cycle then torque all bolts back down to 85ft lbs. (People do this both ways) I went straight to 85ftlbs then just rechecked them. They never came loose.

I wouldn't advise doing each bolt at only 50ft lbs on the one bolt at a time install. Since it is a metal gasket that is rubber ringed you don't want it to move or to have any pressure taken from it if possible since fuids are all around it. Otherwise it will be degraded and can cause you issues right away or down the road.

I hope this helps and this is just my experience that I have had. The arp's cause me a real issue becuase I only went to 70ft lbs. I probably could if just torqued them back down but I wanted to be sure everything goes back together correctly due to the mods that I run and piece of mind.

bolsen

iTrader: (2)

Yea, I thought 50# wasn't enough, I was going ot keep it at 70.

One thing to mention tho, is that on the directions for the arp studs, it specifically states that you should grease the threads of the stud with the moly lube if it's going into a blind hole, so I did. Are you saying I shouldn't have, or is your method just another way of doing

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

I have always been in the understanding that on the threads going into the block should not have any lube of any kind on them since they shouldn't move in or out after they are in place. I am sure others used a different method. As for head bolts I have heard of this like on the stock bolts. I could be wrong hopefully others will chime in what they did. I didn't use any lube on in the block threads.