bryans2k

iTrader: (2)

This is basically a list of stuff I've encountered over the past 2 years in modifying my Evo.

Take note that some things do not still apply because of design changes that were never communicated to the customer until I complained. ALSO, some of these things might have never applied to anyone else as they might have been defects that only affected my parts (bites doesn't it?) or might have never been intended to be used the way I used them. This is basically a list of things you want to watch out for when you modify your Evo.



Components with factory design/material/production defects:

- Borla Header cracked from heat and was warrantied.
- Greddy Profec-B when first turned on would cut boost until you turned it off then back on again.
- Buschur Deluxe Front Mount rubbed a hole nearly through the A/C line near it.
- Buschur Exhaust constantly leaks and also rattles at slip fit for the down pipe to cat. They have since changed to a flanged downpipe/cat combo.
- Buschur upper shorter intercooler pipe had pin holes in the welding around the 1G blow off valve flange and leaks.
- Buschur upper shorter intercooler pipe blow off valve flange plate was warped from the welding and leaks.
- Buschur intercooler pipe flange to the turbo was warped from the welding and leaks.
- Buschur 3" cat rattled as it hit the driveshaft because it was very large. They have now since changed over to a smaller cat.
- Helix o2 Housing cracked from heat on the welds opposite side of the o2 sensor.
- Weapon-R Engine Damper metal bracket mount to the engine broke at the engine mount studs.
- Perrin Short Shifter from design has worn the stock plastic holding piece and rattles horribly now. It also rusts and looks like crap.
- Rallyarmor battery tray sits too low and allows the tranny mount to hit/bend it as the engine torques back and makes a nasty sound. I had to place washers under it to space it up but now it looks like crap all bent.

Components that don't work well together:

- ATS triple plate clutch scrapes against the back of Buschur's upper short intercooler piping with Magnus manifold installed as it comes right in the way of their clutch slave cylinder bracket.
- Had to cut down Buschur intercooler piping a lot when I installed the Magnus Manifold when a guy at Buschur told me I didn't have to.
- If a vendor (vividracing) tells you that STI rear brake pads will fit the Evo they are right but also wrong. They might fit the Evo's stock rotors but require a lot of chopping to fit Baer rotors.
- Magnus intake manifold does not have a spot for the stock map sensor but when I asked about fitment I was never told by a guy at Buschur.
- Ralliart thermostat causes a check engine light in the winter on the coolant temp being too low.

Components that you want to be careful with:

- Road/Race engineering No-Name clutch can not handle over 300 HP and a very light launch. It lasted about 3 months until it's clutch disk springs popped out.
- HKS Twin plate clutch, make sure to lock-tite all bolts as they will rattle loose if you don't.
- Fidanza cam gears are a major pain to adjust as the nuts only allow a socket to be used unless you want to mark up the cam gears with a wrench. I don't understand how they expect you to get a socket down to the nuts near the engine mount without turning the engine over.
- Stock transfer case did not appreciate me launching the car with over 300 HP and with wheel hop + sticky track.
- Stock transmission center diff also did not appreciate the above



BTW, I've never taken it back to the dealership for any work of any kind but I sure need to fix the p0300 code.

I hope this list saves someone some sort of grief.

bryan

rkm625

ehhh..... thats..... not good.

Whats with the stock TC?

bryans2k

iTrader: (2)

It just doesn't apperciate being beaten on over time.

bryan

Stephen Fisher

iTrader: (1)

Any recommendations on parts that you are happy with?

bryans2k

iTrader: (2)

BTW, to anyone who says it's because I beat my car up. I say this, I drive my car with more spirit then others sometimes. I have also taken to the track less a few times (less times then fingers) and have only done a total of 1-3 runs each time over the course of 2 years. My car never once has seen extended periods of hard driving with the exception of driving once with other Evo owners on a drive. which was after most of this stuff ever happened. I just wanted to put that out there. I take care of my car very well thank you.

bryan

bryans2k

iTrader: (2)

Though it seems I've had a lot of issues with Buschur parts it appears they have corrected some issues and may not have issues in the making of their parts but that time. So I recommend Buschur parts for the most part. I also like my ATS triple plate clutch.

bryan

EVOla_VIRUS

iTrader: (16)

Hey...i can admire that you list your mods and those of which has failed....I think the latest Turbo mag has pictures of the stock clutch "blown up" due to flywheel heat .....oh well, my opinion is the car isnt what it was blown up to be.....funny though, some service members in Japan describe the Evo has having a bullet proof everything

wingnut17

iTrader: (4)

very good write up and recomendations. I'm looking to buy an evo here soon, prolly by November (hopefully July so i can enjoy it for summer). I was looking to go the Buscher route as its close enough for me to drive to. thanks for the heads up on everything.

Syrihl

iTrader: (32)

Ditto on the Buschur exhaust: I've had problems with the high-flow cat rubbing against the driveshaft too and leaking at the downpipe/cat joint; I've since torn off the heat shields on the cat to make it rub less and used some silicone gasket maker to seal the leaks. I've also had problems with the long cat-back pipe rubbing against driveshaft brackets (had to shave those a bit, probably need to get some Kartboy poly hangers too). I've heard that the newer designed exhausts with the flange have solved most of these problems, but doesn't really help those out with older exhausts.

I'm interested in hearing more about the Helix O2 housing, Weapon R engine damper, and Perrin short shifter as I have all of those parts and none of them have broken/malfunctioned yet. How long did you have the Helix O2 housing and Weapon R damper on the car? I did have a little problem with the Perrin shifter rubbing on the underside of the center plastic console, but I raised it up a bit with washers to solve the problem. Other than that, it works perfectly and has shorter throws than both the Megan Racing and the B&M adjustable and non-adjustable shifters (at least the way I have it adjusted).

bryans2k

iTrader: (2)

I had the Helix+Weapon-R on for about 5 months. The Perrin I had on for a little over a year. It works fine but is rusted and rattles now slightly in some gears (depending on it's position). I had the same issues in the rear as you with the Buschur exhaust but forgot about them. They have offered to fix the issues with their product when I called but would not send out a replacement with core charge (I offered) until I could send back the old one. They always gave me the excuse of them being too backlogged. I said I would wait and they said then the customers who ordered would have to wait. I can see where they come from but it doesn't help us who were given a crappy product to begin with.


bryan

mifesto

iTrader: (58)

unfortunately what you see as "taking care of your car" can be seen by others are "beating the **** out of it".... its all relative. i've launched my evo 5 times, and RPMS hover around 3.5k... i would assume yours is 5k launches on the drag strips... plus my launches are at autocross so the surface isnt nearly as sticky as a strip (less shock to the transfer case).... in another words alot of us here dont bite your "i take care of my car" hehe

now for the helix o2 housing, how many miles until it cracked? what was ur EGT?

bryans2k

iTrader: (2)

Oh Well, I could care less really. Your reasoning behind your launches is also pretty funny. The Helix was on for about 5 months. Miles? I got umm, probably 6-7k on it. EGT? does it matter considering an EGT in the header would not be anywhere near the EGT in the Helix? it could be 200-300F less. The fact of the matter is that a tubular anything isn't going to last under a hood that is open to the rain (hood vent) unless it is built very thick in every sense.

Ty-Evo8

iTrader: (8)

I like the write up, thanks for the info

si_eater

iTrader: (6)

thats strange i have al most everything buschur and no problems, mt upper piping doesnt leak i have hks flange, my exhaust doesnt leak or rattle, maybe i got lucky
btw what is vacuum supposed to be at idle sorry for off topic

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

Many of these problems I would guess is your own fault. Not trying to be mean but I will explain a few things. I had problems with Buschurs weld on my BOV flange as well. I do not have any warpage issues through his parts (Though you may have). Those I can understand. But I would like to know a few things. As for the fitment of the Magnus intake.. here is a good verbatim,

" If you ask a million questions, ask how to install it, ask why your upper intercooler pipe doesn't line up, and why do you need it then maybe it's not for you." That is from Road Race Engineering's website.

Also, if you would have done ANY research you would know that the stock MAP sensor will not bolt on (Why anyone would care... who knows). I would also like to know how your... ??clutch?? hits your upper IC pipe. That boggles me.

Im honestly not trying to be mean but some of those things are just plain ignorant. People should reseach every part before they purchase it. People should also understand that aftermarket parts are NEVER going to be perfect... especially hand made parts. About the T-Case crap... ANY drivetrain componant WILL fail sooner or later from being launched at stock power levels... high power levels exponentially shorten thier lifespan. Anyone modifying thier car should know this.

We all appreciate you letting us know some of the crappy parts you have had to deal with but you should only mention the parts that were at fault. Buschur's pipes are not meant to fit the Magnus intake. The Magnus intake is not meant for the stock map sensor. The 3" pipes are made 1st for power, 2nd for fit. I am still confused on how your clutch hits the upper IC pipe (External clutches now a days or what... or does the intercooler pipe go through the tranny?). And yes, after cutting Buschurs pipe to fit the magnus it does hit the tranny.. but again, it wasn't designed for the intake.

As for many of these parts, you should have informed the maker of these said items so they could fix whatever the problems were. You should also have asked about the fitment of all items and most of all, research everything. Alot of vendors will assume you know what you are doing in many cases. You shouldnt bash a bunch of people because you had a problem with them. Many of the problems very well may have been your fault.

Again, dont take it like I am being ungodly mean here but some of the items on there are just plain stupid. Some of them are good to know about. Like I said before, we all appreciate your help and I am sure many of the vendors are glad to know about some of the problems thier products have.