massinine

i think i know what your saying, you can take it out of fourth just fine, (in regards to watchout's problem in where the pressure plate isn't letting him disengage the clutch and it wont come out of gear, in which he does need a pedal adjustment) So your problem is you come out of fourth at 7k rpms and when you shift to 5th it wont let you go in until the synchros get synchronized and then it slides in without grinding. Am i correct? BTW i too have the ACT HDSS with the Fidanza flywheel and do not have this problem. Get a light weight flywheel maybe?

EVOTEXAS

iTrader: (12)

If you have the pedal adjusted up high and your clutch line is properly bled, you def need to look at the mechanical aspects of the transmission/clutch. There is no easy solution without actually checking it out.

watchout

iTrader: (2)

My main problem is fast upshifts going into 3rd and 4th. The car will go in, but it is a slow shift, it hesitates for a spilt second before engaging. Like I said its like you are locked out for a sec then it slides right into gear. Kills your times. This all started at the track last november, all shifts are lift shifts, just out of the blue. Thats what has me guessing synchro's, I will try adjustment and see if that helps. By the way double clutching lets it go right into gear everytime.

Shane

TrinaBabe

iTrader: (3)

I believe it isn't the clutch. It seems more like the engine is hessitating. I have kind of the same problem because the car runs so rich between shifts. The extra gas between shifts makes it shift smooth and engage but when I floor it the cars motor kinda sits at a low power level for a split second then starts to pull.

To find out if it is the same as mine try to not let off the fas nearly as much or dont let off it at all and see if it pulls like it should directly after you dump the clutch. If it launches you forward, then its not the clutch. It also may be the clutch itself slipping slightly.

WildRice

I agree with Trina about it not sounding like a clutch problem. Some owners have had to make adjustments to the operating rod to attain proper clutch actuation particularly with the ACT setup. Howerver, if the rod adjustment is the casue here why would the problem only exist at higher rpm and the top gears? I can tell you from my experience that the TSB on the syncro sleeve does cure the gear crash that occurs when shifting into 5th.

93civEJ1

iTrader: (7)

ACTman...any advice on doing clutch adjustment after installing the ACT setup?? it felt that way tonight doing a 1st to 2nd shift upper rpm. I will have to take my
Tcase back apart though to replace the small o-ring, it seems to be alittle damp in that area between the tranny and tcase from where that first oring was messed up. i will be replacing it soon, any advice on how to adjust the clutch at the same time while I am gonna be tooling with the car?

ACTman

iTrader: (5)

Much of the comments here sound like adjustment issues. It is hard to say without actually trying it out. There are those issues with 5th gear syncros etc. Some engines may be set up a little different than others so they may be worse than others. I don't thing putting a SS line on will fix it. Adjustment will do a lot more than the line. Yes, it would be more pronounced at higher rpms because what having the clutch misadjusted will do is not allow enough air gap between the disc and the pressure plate/flywheel surfaces. At high rpms the windage will tend to drive the disc when it is not supposed to. A simple adjustment should fix it if that is the problem. I have noticed that the stock clutch works best when the release/engagment point is higher than what I would expect, so if you think it is right, it could be a little too low and shifting is slowed.

We debated how far to take the design on the ACT pressure plate to get the best balance between adjustment and clamp load. We decided that a small adjustment would be acceptable to get the gain in clamp load we are getting (around 3000 vs. 2200 stock). We could have made it around 2700 and required no adjustment at all, but then it wouldn't hold quite as much power.

The weight of the disc doesn't help matters either when it comes to shifting quickly. Ours is not that heavy, but then again it's not that light either. We could do away with the steel backing on the linings to lighten up the disc, but then you give up some burst strength and torsional strength. Let me know what you find after adjustment.

93civEJ1

iTrader: (7)

thanks for the info...What way should I adjust the rod?? turn it toward the driver side wheel or turn it toward the passenger side? I get kinda confused on which way is supposedly supposed to work the best. How high up or how low do you want the clutch to start to grab, or do you base it on release?

ACTman

iTrader: (5)

Didn't you get instructions with the ACT kit? The rod needs to be longer. It can be extended as long as you like as long as it isn't preloading the clutch master cylinder. There has to be free play between the rod and the piston of the master cylinder, even just a little. You can usually feel when the rod makes contact because it will start to get tension on it. I don't know of a good way to explain it to you in print. It is better to get under the dash and try it out. It is pretty simple. The hardest part is contorting your body to a position where you can adjust the rod.

EVOTEXAS

iTrader: (12)

You want to show less thread on the inside section of the pedal adjustment nut. Put a bit of pressure on the pedal with your left hand and turn the rod with your right hand. Bring it all the way out to the point where there is a small amount of play (SMALL amount). But make sure there is some room so that your clutch is not constantly semi-engaged.

Curt@MrLed

iTrader: (107)

its our transmissions...its the syncros.. i have the same clutch..same probs..there is 1 soluition and 2 temporary fixes...1 get your syncros fixed.. 2 get rid of the restritor in the line..but watch how hard you launch..its there to protect your transfer from shocking it.. 3 try a diff gear oil.. thats all you can do.. oh a lighter flywheel will help..as it will allow motor to slow down quicker let the motor and gears sync up quicker..the real fix is the syncros..

NYREDEVO

iTrader: (1)

somebody really needs to put up a "how to" with some pics! So many people wanna know how to adjust the clutch!!

Curt@MrLed

iTrader: (107)

i tried the shorter slave cylinder rod and does NOT make a diff.

turboex

I dont see why it would work, that would just reduce travel and you want more, Maybe a longer rod, but even so its a hydro system and all the adjustments can be made at the pedal. its very easy to do takes like 5 mins tops. It helped my stock evo 2ed-3ed grind. It still grinds every one in a while, but honestly that just me jaming on the shifter before the clutch is all the way down. I also think this is just part of having an Evo, I wish there tranny was smooth like a honda. Oh well. I have driven about 8 evo's and there all the same. I wounder if a tranny guy on here could let us know what the diffrence is with an evos gears/syncros that causes this, where other cars dont have this problem.

Curt@MrLed

iTrader: (107)

i know i figuer i would try... cheap made synchros.. mass production sucks..try tre transmissions or shepard racing trans.. best 2 rebuilds out there for our cars...