Ha! Always hoped I'd run into you getting in or out of that thing; would have liked to have met you. Anyway, the car wasn't in GL. I did talk to AMS, but pretty much just to swap ideas; they couldn't do much for a car that was 1,000mi away...

I graduated from boot end of June (Chief Thornton, IT1 Eisley, YN2 Hammond), "A" school was a 2 month breeze. Was on hold over at the DM office/dive pool until last week.

And yeah, money. This is going to hurt.

 

YN2 Hammond lol He is a good friend of mine cool. I would tone it down a notch with the upgrades for a whild till you at least make 3rd then you wont have a problem with the money as much. just get it back on the road and keep it simple. for a while lol

 

I'd do the following:

- Don't spend to go to HKS 264s, but do take the AEM cam gears. It makes no sense to spend $600 to take a step down where cams are concerned. The 272s do not have enough effective duration to send the powerband beyond the operating limits of a 2.3. Furthermore, with effective use of cam gears and HKS 272s, you'll get everything you do with HKS 264s and more. Likewise, it makes little sense to use cam gears with short duration HKS 264s anyway, especially with a 2.3.

- Skip the $150 fuel rail. You don't need it, period.

- Instead, take that $750 you save from unnecessary/undesirable expenses and invest it in a better clutch.

 

I would *so* love to take that advice... But if I tone down the mods, I spend about $1k less, and end up buying things that I will just want to replace later, so you can see how it'd be kind of a waste. Besides, the difference between $4k and $5k isn't that much to me; they're both just huge numbers. The main cost is really just getting the thing back on the road. All those parts I already own, just need to get them installed.

The only thing I'm really buying from MAC is the AMS stroker kit. I chose to do that because if I didn't buy a stroker kit, I'd need to buy separately new rods, pistons, and possibly a new crank anyway, so... may as well.

Graduating BUD/S will put me at 3rd, but I'll more than likely make it in the next test anyway, so I'm not *too* worried.

Say hi to YN2 for me; I didn't get a chance to say goodbye before I split.

 

Ditto... I was thinking the same thing when I saw "Stroker" and "Exedy Single Disk" in the same post.

- Steve

 

Are you sure? MAC seems to think the 2.3L stroker will drop the redline to around 6,500, and the 272's don't offer their power band advantages until past 6,000...
That fuel rail also has a connection for a fuel pressure gauge, witch makes for easy fuel line tapping for the NOS system... that's the main reason for going with it.
I'm pretty nice to clutches; I don't think I need that much of a clutch. Besides, I already bought it... any other suggestions?

 

All I'm pointing out is the following:

- Well over 500whp can be achieved on the factory fuel rail.

- Going to HKS 264s from HKS 272s IMO is an undesirable step, especially if you're springing for gears, which are more useful to 272s than 264s anyway.

 

What I ment by taking it easy was after you get it on the road and I would say away form the NOS till after you grad. Good luck but dont count your chickens before they hatch only 10% grad buds.


Will Yn2 know you as Dutch if so I will say Hi.

 

I'm sure Ted will respond to this more eloquently that I will, but basically cam gears can be used to fine tune the powerband, and by advancing the cams and dialing in a little more overlap (yes you read that right, more) you can shift that powerband back down to a usable RPM range while still flowing more air than the smaller cams would ahve let you. The drawback? Less detonation tolerance...

Makes sense....

Damn... seriously, I would sell the single disk and go with a twin setup. A stroker is going to make a lot of torque, and even driving very nicely you're going to be working that clutch.

- Steve

 

Ok, point taken. I'll stick with the 272's, and if I really just gotta see for myself, maybe I'll try swapping some other time... cam installs on evo's are pretty easy, anyway.

 

I am using HKS 280s, and I develop peak torque (and a ton of it) around 4400rpm, and peak hp around 6400rpm. Hmmmmm, how did I do that?

Furthermore, 6500rpm is a very conservative redline for a properly built 2.3.


Better to ask advice before you buy. I think you will need/want a better clutch, but that's just me.

 

My stock clutch lasted me 30k miles, which I hear is pretty damned long... so, if this one (which supposedly holds about 40% better) only lasts me another 30k, I'll be happy. And then I'll buy a twin plate.

 

Being forced into doing some serious upgrades has its advantages... no more "should I, shouldn't I" crap; just gotta do it in order to have my car back. Much easier to justify...

With all the mods in my sig (should be done in about 3 weeks), anybody care to hazard a guess on what sort of numbers I should make?

 

Definitely agree with you there. And definitely not counting those chickens, either... I *am* a realist. I'm just a realist that's aiming real high.
Maybe. He'll definitely remember me as "Stiphout," though.

 

I agree 100% with this, and would also say to stick with the MBC. Easy to use, and no real reason to spend money on something else. Also, my next step is a stroker kit, and I will be spinning it to at least 8,000 RPM, possibly higher if my engine builder says it will hold together and the dyno sheet shows any advantage to spinning it that high.

Keith