Best way to achieve 375-400whp on stock turbo?
Apr 30, 2005, 09:34 PM
#46
Originally Posted by kmxxbadboy
Jeeb, it's Mike. With the upper torque numbers in the 300 range you may want to start with a good foundation of forged internals before turning up the wick like that.
What do you think I should get done?
May 1, 2005, 02:08 AM
#47
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Jeeb, I figure you want to keep your car for more than one season, so I suggest that you look into the weakest link first. The pistons. I'm currently dynoing at 333 to the wheels, but by choice. Until I get those internals tweaked up, I refuse to turn up the wick, just for safety and longevity's sake.
May 1, 2005, 11:17 AM
#49
Evolved Member
Ported EVO 6.5 Turbo
Ported TB
Ported intake manifold
UTRC or AEM EMS
Injectors
FPR
Alcohol injection kit
Port and Jet Coating Enxhuast Manifold or Aftermarket Headers
Cat Delete
02 Housing
Intercooler kit and upper piping
Ingnition upgrade
Ported TB
Ported intake manifold
UTRC or AEM EMS
Injectors
FPR
Alcohol injection kit
Port and Jet Coating Enxhuast Manifold or Aftermarket Headers
Cat Delete
02 Housing
Intercooler kit and upper piping
Ingnition upgrade
Last edited by Ang Wen Yan; May 1, 2005 at 11:22 AM.
May 1, 2005, 01:02 PM
#50
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Originally Posted by trinydex
even if stock injectors could handle 400 "no juice" you'd be running near the raggedy edge of failing the injectors... you better be makin' that power standing still cuz if you sneeze you might lean everything out and blow something.
May 1, 2005, 01:09 PM
#51
Originally Posted by Evo_doer
Where do you get your facts from?? This is not true. I have the stock injectors in my evo making these #s. My A/F ratio is 11.3-11.5 and my injectors are not near max duty cycle varified through EMS. Matchbook tuners seem to be everywhere on this board. If my injectors were anywhere near their max, they would be upped in a moment.
May 1, 2005, 05:12 PM
#54
With a fuel pump you can run the stock injectors up at 400 because there more fuel pressure. This over runs the regulator and you end up with more pressure all around. MAny have checked fuel pressure at idle and are seeing over 50 psi. This translates into less duty cycle because more fuel is going in. There is also something to be said for running injectors at a high duty cycle all the time.
May 1, 2005, 05:40 PM
#55
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Originally Posted by timzcat
With a fuel pump you can run the stock injectors up at 400 because there more fuel pressure. This over runs the regulator and you end up with more pressure all around. MAny have checked fuel pressure at idle and are seeing over 50 psi. This translates into less duty cycle because more fuel is going in. There is also something to be said for running injectors at a high duty cycle all the time.
How do you over run a regulator? If the fuel opening is set for certain pressure? Fuel Pressure is higher, but the end result is more fuel volume. The injectors now have the volume to feed the motor, where before having a stock pump they did not have either. FYI I'm not running a regulator either. So having one is not a bad thing, but not entirely necessary because of my first answer.
Last edited by Evo_doer; May 1, 2005 at 05:44 PM.
May 1, 2005, 08:16 PM
#56
Fuel pump does just that, pump the fuel regardless of demand. The stock regulator does not have the flow necessary to handle this extra fuel.Because the pump can flow a lot of fuel but the regulator can not return it to the tank the fuel pressure goes up. When the injectors open, more fuel is pushed into the engine. At idle and at cruise a lot of fuel is bypassed to the tank. If the flow is not in the regulator the fuel ends up wasted through the injector. There is a way around this to some extent with tuning which will lower the duty cycle but at idle there is nothing you can do to compensate for the excess pressure and the car will be fat at idle. Also when you lift the injectors are shut down by the ECU and do not fire. When you apply throttle again there will be an excess of fuel pressure applied when the injectors are fired causing a rich tip in. The downsides to this problem are the usual wasted fuel, overly rich idle which is bad for the cylinders, and the difficulty in tuning to compensate for a condition that is beyond the norm.
May 1, 2005, 10:12 PM
#58
Not suprised. I am talking about idle quality and regular driving. WOT is not a problem because your dumping fuel anyway. The consensus seems to be 52 psi with the vacuum hose removed. It should be 42-45 or 43.5 as commonly used. Therefore at normal idle the pressure is supposed to be 38 and is now in the high 40s. This also affects spray pattern and that is why you don't up presure more then like 10% because the pattern starts to deteriorate.
May 1, 2005, 10:15 PM
#60
Biggest problem I have is the options available for FPRs. I am not impressed with no name FPRs and to go Aeromotive, which I probably will, I will have to spend a bunch of additional cash just plumbing it in. I agree on the rail. No sense changing it until you get up around 500. You can still flow a lot of fuel through the stock rail and lines.
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