turbolarry

iTrader: (1)

Even if someone comes forward with some, it's useless. Every car is different. You need to go by what your car is doing, no one elses.
Beg, borrow, or steal a logger and look for knock.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

i think that might be what I'm going through.

When the Maf sensor is covered in dirt and oil, it could cause the MAF sensor to send a message to ECU telling it that smaller amount of air then the actual air flow is going into the engine, which sends the smaller amount of fuel then it actually requires.

So the Maf sensor is reading the air flow consistantly, but not the accurate air flow. Then the less fuel for the less air goes into the engine, but in actuality, more air is going in and the air and fuel mixture leans out.

I actually did borrow a heavily oiled K & N filter from my friend for drag day once.

I'm cleaning the MAF sensor today, and changing my spark plugs.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

ok, got the maf sensor off. whole thing is covered in oil and dirt spots.

I got the q-tip and try to clean it up a bit.

Now, the unusual thing I saw on my car is that the bottom honey comb is gone.

I did get the car used and this is the first time i'm looking at my maf sensor.

I read it somewhere from RRE website about doing the taking the bottom honey comb out... for something I can't remember...

i don't know if that's doing something to my a/f ratio.

I'm trying to find the link now.

pix:

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...adjustment.htm

well, it's the 2g mod...

i need to find out what the stock maf looks like.

rraulston

iTrader: (2)

I never run oiled filters. Just for that reason. I put a K&N in my Dodge diesel a few years back. 6mos. later fuel mileage dropped by 20%. Pulled my hair out. Started to change sensors. IAT sensor was coated in oil. BIG TIME. Carb cleaned it off and problem solved. Just had a bad taste in my mouth from it ever since.......RRR

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

ok, warmed up the car a bit and reved it. Knock counts went down a bit on safc, but can't trust that.

Talk to my tuner bud, he said it's the stock ECU. I don't think we have the little honey comb (not the screen) on the bottom side of our MAF sensor.

I'm going to drive it around a bit then maybe get it dynoed, see what my a/f is. Still debating if I want my a/f wideband or not. Have to wait until I get another price quote for this other thing... sigh... I'm debating, because if I get flashed, I wont need to keep up with the a/f... I'll just get the EGT and oil pressure.

anyway, I've decided to upgrade my pipes today. God Damn plumbing is horrible on Evo. I really like the stock intake box, but forgodsake, it takes me so much time to get the stock airbox off since the stock upper IC pipe is an a-hole. That and I get cut all over the f ing place from the god damn fan.

will go with something else soon. possibly injen or dejon.

I called the dealer, they told me there is 3 hot wire in my MAF sensor and I shouldn't clean it or even touch it. I don't see what the hell he's talking about, since I was looking at the Karman Vortex sensor diagram when I was talking to him.

All I saw was, photocoupler, mirror, pressure directing hole, intake temperature sensor.

I asked him, "are you sure you're not talking about the HOT WIRE sensor?" he's like, "evolutions have 3 hot wires inside the MAF sensor. Don't touch those.".

... I don't want to say anything, because I'm fairely new to this stuff, but from my understanding, Karman Vortex sensor actually works off of detecting and sensing the swirling effect of the air, which is called the karman vortex. Sorta like the wave of the pond, when you throw a rock in it.

So, from all this, what I've found out was that oil inside of the MAF sensor does effect the vortex of the air. Which in turn disturbs the air and fuel mixture. well, this is my theory.

In honesty, the dealer guy was really mentioning and sticking with his "story" or "knowledge" that Evolution have HOT WIRE MAF sensor, which we don't, in my opinion.

ay... wt hell, Hot wire sensor works like this. There are platinum hot wires, 2 to 3 inside the
maf sensor. They work like this.

They measure the temperature of the platinum hot wires and adjust the air reading according to how fast the Hot wire cools down.

When the hot wire cools down faster, it means more air is coming through the intake...

They're made up of wires with heater and the thermistor.

so on and so on.

I wont get into the Vane air flow meter and VAF meter.


anyway, any feedback will be great. Really, seriously I could feel the inside of the maf sensor literally covered in dirt and oil. Felt like a grease burger inside.

I also think if some of the oils got onto the mirror (photocoupler), I'm ***ed, since it'll be a PIA to take everything apart again, get into the top of the Maf sensor, and open the thing up, and try to clean the mirror, so it reads the proper Karman vortex....

... ***ing drama.... I hate maf sensor. I need pre OBD engine and ECU....

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

... ok, correction, that little wire coming out from the top? that might be the hotwire.

The little brown thing in the middle? right below that is the pressure directing hole.

I don't know where the hell the vortex generator is... it maybe just the honeycomb that generates Vortex.

So, why the hell do we have a hotwire on the back of the brown pressure directing pipe?

***ing jebus...

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

by the way, new maf sensor for evo is $450...

ct9a gsr

iTrader: (7)

Dunno what this has to do with anything... but when I bought my car used, the previous owner had the car tuned with the UTEC. The UTEC tuner stripped off the silicone on the bottom of the MAF and adjusted the screw. Unfortuneantely, I have no idea how far the screw's current calibration deviates from the stock calibration... but I'm assuming this messes with your air/fuel ratio a good bit. Might wanna check and see if your calibration screw was adjusted too.

JeffR116

iTrader: (3)

From the picture you posted, that "U" shaped wire at the top is the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. Is that what you're referring to?

Definitely take some time to clean your MAF. Pop it out and spray some Electrical Parts Cleaner on it. Let it dry for 10-15 minutes. Repeat if so desired. Just make sure that bad boy is dry before you start it back up again. And don't smoke while you're cleaning it. It's flammable as hell.

Jeff

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

you're right. I just looked at the diagram again, that's the intake air temperature sensor.

So, the dealer was wrong.

anyway, from what I've researched, electric cleaner shouldn't be sprayed onto the Karman type maf sensor. That's not recommended.... ?

and C, that screw... you're right, they have that mod for the 2g and evo maf sensors... damn... maybe I need to take my shlt back up again...

JeffR116

iTrader: (3)

If it's any consolation, when I had my 350Z I went through a similar situation. I installed a popcharger and the oil from the filter fouled my MAF. I cleaned my MAF with the same method. The only discernable difference I can see between the Z and Evo MAF is the honeycomb structure in front of the hotwire. I used the cleaner that was formulated especially for circuit boards. Since it's your car, it's your call obviously. But I would recommend it.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

we don't have hotwire maf sensor. We have karman vortex type maf.

i'll talk to mitsubishi. I mean, mitsubishi mitsubishi. I'm sick of talking to dealers...

well, I'll try to call one more dealer, then I'll try mitsubishi.

I have to make few calls.

regarding the screw mod, my rubber is still intact.

plokivos

iTrader: (3)

well, see the bottom screw mod?

do any of you have the picture of your maf sensor?

I want to see how high that screw is from the pressure directing hole (right below brown thing).

JeffR116

iTrader: (3)

Good call. Please keep us updated on what the status is!