EVOboostVIII

Ok so far I have these on my list. Some help on what should be done before or after would be nice.

Greddy Type S BOV
Boost Guages
Turbo Timer
MBC
Strut and Sway bar
Turbo Back Exhaust
CAI
Volks
Tint
255lph Fuel pump
Flash....

What kind of hp should I be looking at with that list and how much should I expect to pay for some of this stuff, what would be smart to buy used? Should I even bother with things like Utec and such, SAFC etc? or are my goals not large enough to bother with them. I was also considering a new FMIC somewhere in the mix but I hear it's a waste of money because the stock one is great.

chaotichoax

iTrader: (149)

Most people say that the stock i/c is great and there is no need to change it unless you run a larger turbo. Only other thing you might want to consider is a lot of people say the stock air box is your best bet and is good for up to 400 horsepower so maybe instead of the cai just go with a k&n drop in filter

PA-silver03evo

iTrader: (7)

If you get the flash, I wouldnt worry about an AFC or a boost controller. You will be tuned from the flash so the AFC will be useless and you can get the boost raised through the flash as well. If you plan on raising it over 20psi then you can get an MBC but if not, dont worry about it. Use this money on other mods.

I also dont think you really need to worry about the sway bars or strut bars as part of your first basic mods. The car handles great already so until you are really going to be pushing the limits of the car, I would wait on them.

bigjhoney

iTrader: (12)

I used to be all about a flash, until I looked into an afc. If you know how to tune an afc, you can yield just as much power, or more than a flash, but lets not get into that now.

housedj

iTrader: (2)

Don't really need a fancy BOV, just one that works. get a recirc.
A good boost gauge is critical (HKS, Blitz, Defi).
Blitz FATT DC2. easy to use & cheap.
Hallman Pro MBC. Al sells them for $86 i think.
On suspension i went with a Cusco OS rear strut bar, Cusco 23mm adj sway bar using the middle holes, Perrin endlinks, & a RMR lower subframe brace.
DP is usually included in a TBE kit unless you mix & match companies.
Volks are expensive. if you're gonna spend that much, at least get 18's.
Tint the windows as dark as you legally can.
Cf hood won't look nearly as good unless you have the matching fenders, trunk, & spoiler to go with it. you don't need it & they are expensive.
you don't need the SAFC if you have a good flash.

mhutch

iTrader: (8)

I have an HKS intake, cams, most of your TB exhaust, and a boost gauge setup for sale. Will make you a killer deal on the lot. PM me.

btw, turbo timer and BOV will not add much with what you are doing.

PA-silver03evo

iTrader: (7)

I found this thread posted by David Buschur who I am sure know what he is doing with an AFC and has all the dyno numbers to back it up. I know an AFC is a great thing to have, I used to have one myself, but with a flash I think the money could be better spent elsewhere.

" I am so glad he came down (THANKS AL!) We made great gains and now have what I would consider the ultimate tune for all of our Staged upgrades. The smoothness of the power, the driveability and the power are just unbelievable. I am not kidding here, the difference between this and the AFC is like comparing a crack ***** to.....well you get the picture. The flash is what I we will be using with all of our staged upgrades now and we will be offering the AFC as the option instead.

Previously when I started this topic the car dyno'd 237 whp and 250.6 ft lbs bone stock.

With our Stg 0 on the car (2.5 dp, 2.5 axle back, filter kit, boost controller, boost gauge, gauge mount and AFC) the car made 289.3 whp and 279.6 whp.

With the same Stg 0 on the car but tuning with the flash we were able to increase the low end HP and torque substantially and the peak HP ended up at 287.6 and 294.5 ft lbs. Very nice.

This package, as I have said earlier is 100% emmision legal. Uses the stock cat, stock mid pipe and is VERY quiet. Cost on the package is $995. This would easily put an EVO with a good driver into the 12's.

More to come,

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com"

EvoPanda7

i have a blitz exaust (loud as ***) ... helix dp and cat, gfb blow off valve, and works p2 flash... next ima either get jic coilovers... a1's and apr cront lip and side spliters or hks cam's and cam gears... either one... iono yet

jeffm1999

iTrader: (3)

I disagree here. A manual boost controller, even at near stock boost levels is a GREAT thing. Especially if you are getting a turbo back exhaust, as you will likely see boost spikes up to 22 or 23 for a second and then stabilize at 19. For those few seconds your engine can run dangerously lean. 23-19=4psi , 4psi/19 x 100 = 21% air spike... not good. A walbro 255 lph pump, as listed several times above will help your injectors deliver more fuel when this happens, but you should still get the MBC to help you run a more consistent level of boost. This will also allow you to tune more aggressively without getting knocking, and having your ecu pull some timing (thus reducing hp).

For what its worth, I think your list is pretty good. I would suggest, however, figuring out what you really want, power or looks. This is UP TO YOU, regardless of what others on this forum might say. To each their own, but I am in favor of a fast car that looks stock. I would say to forget about the CF hood and Volks, although they are sweet, and spend the money on other engine/drivetrain mods if you really want to be in the low 12's. Maybe get the ACT HDSS or similar, some cams and cam gears and a good engine management system, or a custom tune like you listed. What you have is a good start, but like others have said, try to put at least 3 or 4 mods on before you spend the money on the flash. If you get an air intake system get something that has consistent MAF readings, I have the AEM intake and would recommend something different than what I have. I have heard good things about the HKS RS Suction, really consistent, again allowing for a more aggressive tune.

Sorry for such a long post, but the bottom line is HAVE FUN MODDING, and do what YOU WANT, not what everyone else has done or wants to do.

Cheers

PA-silver03evo

iTrader: (7)

I dont see how a boost controller is going to lower boost (stop it from going above 19psi). All it does is delay the pressure from getting to the wastegate actuator and therefore raises boost pressure so I dont see how you can possibly make the wastegate open earlier to lower boost with an MBC.

Wicked

iTrader: (7)

The stock boost solinoid measures/controls boost from what the turbo itself is putting out, simply installing a boost controller right on the intake manifold controlls the boost that is actually going into the engine, thus giving a more acurate boost measure, because you loose boost through all the i/c piping etc. The boost is alot more crisp, less of a spike, and at stock/off boost levels the spike is almost nonexistant. Just installing the MBC and not touching a thing will give you a very noticiable change in the car's performance.. This is all just based on my experiance from installing one a little while ago. If i'm off anywhere someone correct me..

If you want 12's easy & cheap...

3"TBE
HKS RS intake
MBC
Flash
Walbro

You gotta think, the evo CAN run a 13.0-13.1 completely stock! soooo... That will get you there easy. And if you added a clutch to that list, it would be a no-brainer.

PA-silver03evo

iTrader: (7)

So you are running a vacuum line all the way from your intake manifold to the wastegate actuator? If so, I think thats what gives you the effect you are talking about with the acurate boost reading. Its not the boost controller that is doing it. Like I was saying the boost controller is just delaying the boost pressure from getting to the actuator therefore raising the boost. To use the idea you are talking about all you need is a piece of vacuum line to go to the manifold instead of the turbo outlet but you still dont need a boost controller.

jeffm1999

iTrader: (3)

Get one... you will see. I am speaking from experience

MYEVO8U

iTrader: (3)

What year EVO did you buy??
Stuff is expensive
There is no problem with used IMO.
Just get the ECU flashed and don't bother with the SAFC until you get cams, injectors and that kind of stuff

MYEVO8U

iTrader: (3)

These are just rough estimates.
I'm sure someone is going to say "where can you buy"........ Yada Yada
These numbers are just quick estimates.


Greddy Type S BOV... $200
Boost Guages.... 120-800 depending on brand and style
Turbo Timer.. 100-400
MBC... under100 for the Hallman PRO. Thats all you need don't waste money on electronics
Strut and Sway bar... Strut bar.. 150-300 all the sway bar is going to do is make the rear end looser.. save your money
Turbo Back Exhaust.. 600-1500
CAI.... Just get HKS or Injen... about 300-400
Volks.. no clue.. too expensive for my blood
Tint.. 6 pack of Beer - 300 all depends on who you know
255lph Fuel pump.. 80-150
Flash.... all depends on which company you go with and if you do mail-in or custom