PA-silver03evo

iTrader: (7)

lol, thats not a very good explanation. I do have one and it doesnt stop boost spiking. I dont have it installed the way you do though. I didnt use the manifold for a boost source so thats why I say the result you are seeing is due to using the manifold. Whether you have the boost controller or not, you should still get the same result if you have your hoses run that way. If you have a flash and its set to control boost to 20psi and then you install a boost controller, all that will do is raise it even higher causing the dangerous boost level you were talking about.

EVOboostVIII

Though I love the Volks to death I think in all honesty performance should come first, and what more of a sleeper than a stock car with these mods. I can always worry about cosmetics later on. So far we have on the list

BOV
Drop in
TBE
Walbro
Strut bar
boost guages
safc
mbc
cams (hks 272)
cam gears (heard they werent really neccessary).
clutch should be a good idea as well
good tune time to get everything right and working together. I wonder about a downpipe though, should I? what are some things that I am missing and what kind of HP numbers should I produce roughly with that list? I would like to make 12's without and nutso launches, I know it can be done with a tiny amount of mods but I don't wanna beat the hell out of my car.

Wicked

iTrader: (7)

Downpipe is included in the tbe.. and yes you should.

with drag racing your gonna beat your car everytime unless you want to run a 17 second 1/4.

MYEVO8U

iTrader: (3)

Installing a boost controller doesn't automatically raise the boost level.... You have to adjust the MBC to the desired Psi. I have the Hallman MBC and I could run 12 Psi all day if I wanted to. The boost controller is adjustable and is why they are universal. I have the same MBC on my EVO as I do on My '04 WRX (not Sti). 21Psi on the EVO 16Psi on the WRX.

PA-silver03evo

iTrader: (7)

Yes, this is true that it doesnt automatically raise boost unless you turn it up. The only point I was making out of all of this is that he doesnt need one if he gets the flash with boost control unless he wants to adjust it often. There is no point in getting the flash with boost at 20psi and then getting an MBC to turn it back down. I just think most people would rather spend money on things that are needed more than buying 2 things that are for the most part doing the same thing.

So in the end, if you want to be able to adjust your boost on a regular basis, then buy the MBC but if you are happy with it set to 19 or 20psi, then just get the flash with boost control.

jeffm1999

iTrader: (3)

I think we are running in circles here, and at the risk of reviving this thread I just wanted to clarify that the incresed boost levels I was referring to are a result of the Turbo Back Exhaust causing exhaust gasses to flow faster, not from the ECU reFlash. And the addition of the MBC will hold the boost to the preset level (whichever you choose) and not allow the exhaust system to make the boost spike too high. Hope that is clear enough, even though we sorta got off topic I hope this helped the thread originator to some degree. :EDIT: You CAN use a boost controller to lower boost also, just for clarification.

rkm625

I just got the ACT HDSS in my car and im just about to the end of the break in but my tires are bald so I'm not gonna go too hard untill i get new tires. So far it feels pretty good. Its more grabby than the stocker but you get used to it. I did that a prostreet light weight flywheel and the B&M adj short shifter. So far so good.

silverEVO8

iTrader: (12)

-BOV: only replace with jdm MR DV
-Boost Guages: the electronic ones are the best
-Turbo Timer: waste of money, inconvenient POS
-MBC: not needed if you use the XEDE
-Strut and Sway bar (just to stiffen the chassis up a tid bit, I plan on keeping the -suspension stock): Try driving it stock for a while.... You might not want to make it any stiffer...
-Down Pipe: see below
-Turbo Back exhuast :excellent modification, good power gains
-Volk 17's: If you are going to change wheels, why not go 18"?... Volks are nice, but lots of $$$$$
-Window tint: your choice....
-CF hood: I don't like the look of them... I'd save that money for better things
-SAFC: Not needed if you get XEDE
-Flash: Can be good, particularly in the '03-'04

You forgot a very good modification... Vishnu XEDE and Xflash with custom tune That will take care of the rest of your mods and save you the MBC, SAFC and a lot of grief....

Here's what I'd recommend based on my (very expensive) experience:
1. Turbo back exhaust with high flow cat
2. Custom tuned Vishnu XEDE (and Xflash if applicable)
3. Cam gears if you want that little "extra" power at the top
4. Boost gauge

I strongly advise against any sort of intake. The stock intake works great. I'd stay with the air filter and keep it changed. It works better than anything else (stay away from expensive, oily, not good flowing things like K&N)

If you really intend to track or otherwise race your car, you prolly want to upgrade the suspension with big bucks stuff.... Otherwise, you'll just be messing up your fine daily driver

Yes, you can do lots more stuff and you can spend lots more money. Some people get lots of power with many different modifications. The Mods I suggest are likely to get you a 300~330 whp (dynojet) with pump gas and you'll keep a stock-like driveability. PM me privately and I'll tell you what piece of **** mods and "tunes" to stay away from