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Timing belt tensioner tool

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Old May 6, 2005 | 06:35 AM
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Timing belt tensioner tool

Mitsu has the timing belt tensioner tool but they can't give them out to the public. How is everyone doing the cam install without this tool? We already have the cams in the car but can't get the belt over the cam gears.
Old May 6, 2005 | 06:36 AM
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From: St. Charles, IL
http://www.miller.spx.com/
Old May 6, 2005 | 06:50 AM
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Do you recall how much you paid for it? Did they refer to it as the timing belt wrench?
Old May 6, 2005 | 06:56 AM
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Make one out of a threaded rod. Cost me $5. Had one in about an hour 25 minute drive there, 10 min to get the parts, 25 minute drive home. Just make sure the tip is blunt so it doesnt dig into the tensioner arm.

If you search there is a list of the thread and pitch. Just get a 3' length 2 nuts and bind the nuts on one end and use a box end wrench to loosen the belt.
Old May 6, 2005 | 06:59 AM
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for the tensioner pulley tool I bought the miller tool and it was pretty poor IMO. There's not a lot of room there and I found the matco or snap-on tool to be MUCH better even though it's about 3 times the cost. probably not worth it for the guy who only does his own belt every 60K, but for the guy who does a timing belt every month or two on one car or another, well worth it.
Old May 6, 2005 | 07:04 AM
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144 MPH,
Where did you get yours from?
Old May 6, 2005 | 07:13 AM
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Cajun,
I follow most of what you are saying. Is the threaded rod that you are telling me about supose to screw into the tensioner or does it just push in? If you push on it, does it loosen it or what....Can you give me a bit more detail on how the process worked for you?
Old May 6, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 144mph
for the tensioner pulley tool I bought the miller tool and it was pretty poor IMO. There's not a lot of room there and I found the matco or snap-on tool to be MUCH better even though it's about 3 times the cost. probably not worth it for the guy who only does his own belt every 60K, but for the guy who does a timing belt every month or two on one car or another, well worth it.
I have the miller tool and I thought it was great. Cost me around $15, if I recall correctly. Using a threaded rod can be risky, as it could break making the job much more difficult. Just remember to lube the rod and put it in slowly.

-Paul
Old May 6, 2005 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by PVD04
Just remember to lube the rod and put it in slowly.

-Paul
haha!
Old May 6, 2005 | 10:22 AM
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A friend told me that you can buy the Mitsubishi tool from AMS for about $35.00
Old May 6, 2005 | 11:28 AM
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roadrace engineering-20.00, the parts to make it cost about 5 bux.
Old May 9, 2005 | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by snapb1
Cajun,
I follow most of what you are saying. Is the threaded rod that you are telling me about supose to screw into the tensioner or does it just push in? If you push on it, does it loosen it or what....Can you give me a bit more detail on how the process worked for you?
Here is what I went thru...

(Me)
I don't have an "old" battery post and don't wish to tear up the threads on the block. I have found from hours of searching that the thread is 8mm x 1.25 and the tool has a rounded head. I bought a 36" peice of threaded rod 8mm x 1.25 from a local bolt shop and i am going to bind a couple nuts on the ends for leverage (if needed). I will be using this in a couple weeks. I will post my findings and the details of how well it worked.....*fingers crossed* I didn't want to try and pry back the tensioner because I don't think it is exposed if you remove just the top timing belt cover. The "Tool" seems like the best (an most approperate) tool for the job.

(someone else)
The 36" 8mmx 1.25 should work. Just remember to hand tighten it 30degrees/sec. The manual says it should take you 15 mins to push the tensioner all the way back. You might need a hex head (2 nuts bolted together in the end) towards to end but you should encounter very little tension from it at all. Also, you'll only need about 9-10in of the threaded bolt.

It worked great.I used the whole threaded rod and I could have ut off 2' of it and it would have worked fine. I would say cut it in half to be safe. I don't see any need for the "tool" this worked great.
Old May 9, 2005 | 12:02 PM
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i also made mine bought the rod and had the die and just threaded it and lubed it like crazy took my time when putting it in and tighting it and it was perfect not a problem at all.... but i will b buying a nice new one for next time
Old May 9, 2005 | 01:36 PM
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From: Agrestic
This might do the trick: clicky here

Old May 9, 2005 | 01:47 PM
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You can buy the tool from mitsubishiparts.net.. I think its kinda expensive (around 70).



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