Custom work going on at Buschur Racing....
May 13, 2005, 08:27 PM
#31
The stock front brakes will not work with these wheels. Only 15" wheel/tire package. They do clear the rears nicely. We have something nice cooking for the fronts on this car.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
May 13, 2005, 08:53 PM
#33
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Would it be possiable to use another set of OEM back brakes on the fronts? Just wondering. Can't wait to see it 
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
The stock front brakes will not work with these wheels. Only 15" wheel/tire package. They do clear the rears nicely. We have something nice cooking for the fronts on this car.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
May 14, 2005, 05:19 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by Wicked
Would it be possiable to use another set of OEM back brakes on the fronts? Just wondering. Can't wait to see it
Originally Posted by earlier on evom
Rear rotors and calipers needed for Buschur Racing...
May 11, 2005, 06:04 PM * #1
I know this isn't the place to post this but I am in desperate need of a good used set of rear rotors and calipers for an EVO.
Any of you guys that have taken yours off or have some off a wrecked EVO I am interested in buying a set a good price or I can do some trading for them.
Contact me via PM or whatever you like.
Thanks,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
May 14, 2005, 02:50 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by davidbuschur
We didn't take any before pics of the car. Imagine one of the most beat up EVO's you have ever seen and then beat it up more. This car was unbelievabley trashed. The carpet was so bad it was going to be replaced. After a call to the dealer and retail price quote of $550 for the carpet I thought we might be able to clean it. We sprayed it down with some very heavy duty cleaner, put it out on the concrete and sprayed it with a high pressure hose. Surprised, it came out as good as new. The owner of this car must have hauled a lot of stuff in the car. Interior panels are gouged, front trunk panel is broken, paint is horrible, lots of rust, which is a serious EVO problem as much as I hate to say it. It is very sad the shape this car was in. It's hard to believe someone buys a $30,000 car has it at most 3 years and trashes it this bad. The car had some aftermarket parts in the drivetrain so whoever owned/wrecked it had modified it already.
The wheels are Centerlines, I believe they are under $200 each, the tires are around $200 per tire. Those are DOT Hoosier's. The car is being set-up for serious street use.
The fuel cell, fittings, pump, filter, AN lines, regulator and fuel rail fittings run about $1200. This system will supply 1,000 hp.
The lines we used were -8. We have always used -10 in the past but that is truly over kill. We have made in excess of 650 whp on the stock fuel lines. The -8's will take this car further than it will be built. I don't know what -6 or-8 will flow, there are numbers on those types of things out there though. My personal experience is even a -6 line would be good for atleast 700 whp.
The Walbro pump we sell for the EVO has put 550 whp to the ground with no issues at all. You may be surprised how much you can run on a good intank pump.
The cell in this car was done for a few reasons. Number one is there aren't any good cheap fuel systems on the market. AMS makes a super nice kit, but the price is just about the same as this entire fuel system. Granted you keep the stock tank and the install is a little bit easier. That takes us to the second reason, weight. The stock tank assembly is about 40 pounds. This 10 gallon aluminum cell is maybe 5 pounds. I should have weighed it but didn't.
As you guys can see this isn't a hacked up mess. The owner wants the car very clean and functional. Full interior, hell we even had to leave all the trunk carpet and trim panel in it.
Radio, power windows, door locks etc. Factory seats and such too.
We have some good ideas for this car and it is going to be interesting to see how it comes out.
The frame damage in the front is pretty nasty. I have some ideas how to fix it and they involve using my 4wd Duramax Dooley and a chain to help "straighten" it out. DON'T laugh!! I had a 1992 DSM I bought wrecked and a 4wd F150 did wonders. I chained one side of the car to my house and pulled it the other direction with the truck! I drove it for a long time and as far as I know it is still being beat on by someone else! Good times.
Take care,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The wheels are Centerlines, I believe they are under $200 each, the tires are around $200 per tire. Those are DOT Hoosier's. The car is being set-up for serious street use.
The fuel cell, fittings, pump, filter, AN lines, regulator and fuel rail fittings run about $1200. This system will supply 1,000 hp.
The lines we used were -8. We have always used -10 in the past but that is truly over kill. We have made in excess of 650 whp on the stock fuel lines. The -8's will take this car further than it will be built. I don't know what -6 or-8 will flow, there are numbers on those types of things out there though. My personal experience is even a -6 line would be good for atleast 700 whp.
The Walbro pump we sell for the EVO has put 550 whp to the ground with no issues at all. You may be surprised how much you can run on a good intank pump.
The cell in this car was done for a few reasons. Number one is there aren't any good cheap fuel systems on the market. AMS makes a super nice kit, but the price is just about the same as this entire fuel system. Granted you keep the stock tank and the install is a little bit easier. That takes us to the second reason, weight. The stock tank assembly is about 40 pounds. This 10 gallon aluminum cell is maybe 5 pounds. I should have weighed it but didn't.
As you guys can see this isn't a hacked up mess. The owner wants the car very clean and functional. Full interior, hell we even had to leave all the trunk carpet and trim panel in it.
Radio, power windows, door locks etc. Factory seats and such too.
We have some good ideas for this car and it is going to be interesting to see how it comes out.
The frame damage in the front is pretty nasty. I have some ideas how to fix it and they involve using my 4wd Duramax Dooley and a chain to help "straighten" it out. DON'T laugh!! I had a 1992 DSM I bought wrecked and a 4wd F150 did wonders. I chained one side of the car to my house and pulled it the other direction with the truck! I drove it for a long time and as far as I know it is still being beat on by someone else! Good times.
Take care,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
May 14, 2005, 04:19 PM
#37
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"The fuel cell, fittings, pump, filter, AN lines, regulator and fuel rail fittings run about $1200. This system will supply 1,000 hp.
The lines we used were -8. We have always used -10 in the past but that is truly over kill. We have made in excess of 650 whp on the stock fuel lines. The -8's will take this car further than it will be built. I don't know what -6 or-8 will flow, there are numbers on those types of things out there though. My personal experience is even a -6 line would be good for atleast 700 whp."
It looks like your using the Aeromotive A1000 EFI pump. They recommend -10 from the tank to the pump, -8 from the pump to the fuel rail, and a -6 return line. They also state that the pump is good for 1200hp carberated, 1000hp EFI, and 700hp for forced induction. Not doubting your experience with the 4G63, but i know what it means to be safe than sorry pushing 500-900hp.
Dave
The lines we used were -8. We have always used -10 in the past but that is truly over kill. We have made in excess of 650 whp on the stock fuel lines. The -8's will take this car further than it will be built. I don't know what -6 or-8 will flow, there are numbers on those types of things out there though. My personal experience is even a -6 line would be good for atleast 700 whp."
It looks like your using the Aeromotive A1000 EFI pump. They recommend -10 from the tank to the pump, -8 from the pump to the fuel rail, and a -6 return line. They also state that the pump is good for 1200hp carberated, 1000hp EFI, and 700hp for forced induction. Not doubting your experience with the 4G63, but i know what it means to be safe than sorry pushing 500-900hp.
Dave
May 16, 2005, 03:18 AM
#38
Originally Posted by Wicked
Would it be possiable to use another set of OEM back brakes on the fronts? Just wondering. Can't wait to see it
May 16, 2005, 07:34 AM
#40
You guys caught me on the brakes, EVO rears on the front. Using DSM brakes is what everyone is doing, it is stupid. Why would someone buy those? The rear EVO brakes use a gorgeous lightweight aluminum caliper and decentently light rotor already. Guys are buying DSM cast iron calipers (weigh more than EVO calipers) and the DSM rotors. We are going to just mount the rear EVO brakes and calipers on the front of this car.
The floor in this car was re-made from steel. The firewall between the passenger compartment and trunk area is made from aluminum.
As for the fuel pump, we used the dual -8's into the pump, it will work out perfectly. From the pump to the rail and back we are using -8's also.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The floor in this car was re-made from steel. The firewall between the passenger compartment and trunk area is made from aluminum.
As for the fuel pump, we used the dual -8's into the pump, it will work out perfectly. From the pump to the rail and back we are using -8's also.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
May 16, 2005, 12:19 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by davidbuschur
You guys caught me on the brakes, EVO rears on the front. Using DSM brakes is what everyone is doing, it is stupid. Why would someone buy those? The rear EVO brakes use a gorgeous lightweight aluminum caliper and decentently light rotor already. Guys are buying DSM cast iron calipers (weigh more than EVO calipers) and the DSM rotors. We are going to just mount the rear EVO brakes and calipers on the front of this car.
The floor in this car was re-made from steel. The firewall between the passenger compartment and trunk area is made from aluminum.
As for the fuel pump, we used the dual -8's into the pump, it will work out perfectly. From the pump to the rail and back we are using -8's also.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The floor in this car was re-made from steel. The firewall between the passenger compartment and trunk area is made from aluminum.
As for the fuel pump, we used the dual -8's into the pump, it will work out perfectly. From the pump to the rail and back we are using -8's also.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Count me in for a set of those brackets also !
May 17, 2005, 07:22 AM
#42
I cannot believe what the calipers are selling for used. The car may end up with a set of Wilwoods on it, since they are half the money.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
May 17, 2005, 09:41 AM
#43
We have been getting a lot of calls here at the shop about this fuel system.
What I would like to suggest on this is we have a cleaner, reversible way of doing this that anyone wanting a fuel cell put into their EVO should consider.
Doing the flat floor in the car is a lot of work. Yes, we can do it, as you can see, and we can do it in a very short time. BUT, the floor of the trunk is completely cut out. In doing this in the front of the trunk where it drops down the rear end subframe bolts to it. This area is left and there is a "blank" spot in the rear. Not a big deal for a car you intend to keep forever or just make a race car out of. For a guy that may sell the car though this is going to cause problems in the future.
What I suggest, for most guys that want to upgrade the fuel system and drop some weight off the car would be this: We can use all the same components that we did pictured here. Rather than cutting the floor we can simply use aluminum tubing to make a mount flat over the spare tire well. This give us a great place to mount the fuel pump, filter and lines. Then there are just two holes put through the front of the spare tire well where the new lines are run in and out of. Works out extremely well. My brothers red EVO is done similar to this. His car we used steel 1" x 1" tubing for the mounts and mounted a very large 16 gallon plastic cell. The pump, filter and such are then housed in the spare tire well.
We looked at pricing of all the parts and the installation on a job like this and it could all be done for $1600. This would include the cell, mounts, fuel pump, fuel filter, -8 aeroquip feed and return lines, SX adjustable fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail fittings, fuel pressure gauge, tip over valve, vent tube and labor.
There is one other problem. The factory fuel gauge. Once you do this the fuel gauge does not function. We have found a solution to this but it makes the gauge work in reverse, so a full tank is empty and empty is full. It atleast gives you some idea how much fuel you have, even if backwards.
Thanks again for the interest,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
What I would like to suggest on this is we have a cleaner, reversible way of doing this that anyone wanting a fuel cell put into their EVO should consider.
Doing the flat floor in the car is a lot of work. Yes, we can do it, as you can see, and we can do it in a very short time. BUT, the floor of the trunk is completely cut out. In doing this in the front of the trunk where it drops down the rear end subframe bolts to it. This area is left and there is a "blank" spot in the rear. Not a big deal for a car you intend to keep forever or just make a race car out of. For a guy that may sell the car though this is going to cause problems in the future.
What I suggest, for most guys that want to upgrade the fuel system and drop some weight off the car would be this: We can use all the same components that we did pictured here. Rather than cutting the floor we can simply use aluminum tubing to make a mount flat over the spare tire well. This give us a great place to mount the fuel pump, filter and lines. Then there are just two holes put through the front of the spare tire well where the new lines are run in and out of. Works out extremely well. My brothers red EVO is done similar to this. His car we used steel 1" x 1" tubing for the mounts and mounted a very large 16 gallon plastic cell. The pump, filter and such are then housed in the spare tire well.
We looked at pricing of all the parts and the installation on a job like this and it could all be done for $1600. This would include the cell, mounts, fuel pump, fuel filter, -8 aeroquip feed and return lines, SX adjustable fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail fittings, fuel pressure gauge, tip over valve, vent tube and labor.
There is one other problem. The factory fuel gauge. Once you do this the fuel gauge does not function. We have found a solution to this but it makes the gauge work in reverse, so a full tank is empty and empty is full. It atleast gives you some idea how much fuel you have, even if backwards.
Thanks again for the interest,
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
May 17, 2005, 10:01 AM
#44
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Dave,
What about welding a sump on to the factory fuel tank with 2 external outlets. I had this done on a couple cars with excellent results. Mount the fuel pump hardware underneath on the sub frame for a stealth look. This way you do not need to weld in a fire wall between the trunk and the passenger compartment. Use the factory return line and you end up with a lower cost solution. I actually ran this set up with 2 pumps, one for each the motor and nitrous.
Dave
What about welding a sump on to the factory fuel tank with 2 external outlets. I had this done on a couple cars with excellent results. Mount the fuel pump hardware underneath on the sub frame for a stealth look. This way you do not need to weld in a fire wall between the trunk and the passenger compartment. Use the factory return line and you end up with a lower cost solution. I actually ran this set up with 2 pumps, one for each the motor and nitrous.
Dave
