Curiosity Question on those VTA and running fine
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#11
okay.. I'm not going to go onto a VTA rant, the HKS SSQV will generally "Idle" better than other blowoff valves in VTA, however VTA DOESNT WORK RIGHT..
Anyone telling you their not having an idling problem, or part throttle stalling HAS THEIR BOV MISADJUSTED.. what their not realizing is the incredible amount of compressor surge their getting instead while the bov isn't opening properly...
Most diverter valves can be partially open at idle due to high engine vacuum, the DV's spring and adjustment are should be adjusted in such a way that its closed for the most part when there's lower engine vacuum, and the spring assists in keeping the DV closed under boost (so theirs greater pressure differential holding it closed, then the force trying to open it under boost) You only need enough spring and adjustment pressure so it OPENS EASILY AT PART THROTTLE, and only enough spring pressure to retain the maximum boost your running..
IF you use a heavy spring, or shim the spring, or increase the adjustment so it stays completely closed at idle, the spring pressure may be too great and will hurt part throttle drivability, it will stumble off-idle, surge and buck when shifting at part throttle, flutter, and other problems.. but MOST IMPORTANTLY it will cause pretty severe compressor surge at those times (which is a majority of the driving most of you will be doing in daily driving) this will wreak havoc with the compressor internals and quickly damage the bearings and shaft..
IF YOU HAVE A STOCK MAF, YOU CANNOT ADJUST A BOV IN AN ADEQUATE MANNER TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING..
There are a few BOV's out there that will idle fine without much adjustment and will work pretty well, the HKS SSQV is a good example, but even the hks flutters and has slight surge at part throttle, and low load venting will still cause the idle to drop or potentially stall (A very rich condition)
Its obvious the people doing this are two types..
1) They like the sound and could care less about performance
2) they have a workaround that doesnt require doing MORE HARM THEN GOOD (ie, speed density, blowthrough maf, etc..)
I wish this topic would go away, any car with a drawthrough MAF (The Evo and other cars) just won't run correctly, and SHOULD NOT BE VENTED TO THE ATMOSPHERE at the expense of making adjustments to accomodate it, it just hurts the cars performance and longevity.
Ok.. Now that I'm done with my rant.. The good news is the HKS SSQV is going to be the one that doesnt require adjustment at all, and it will idle and won't surge much at part throttle, it will hold pretty much any amount of boost you can throw at it.. Unfortunately, you'll never be able to adequately work around the rich condition when it vents at any point, the EIDS will work somewhat, but it "Desensitizes" the MAF's response to changes in airflow, and therefore may hurt the car's throttle response.
The real answer is, if you have a stock MAF, don't VTA.. It just leads to headaches. If you don't want to listen to the countless people who understand how these devices work and what compromises you make to get them to work, then you can be left to your own devises.. but understand that the only reason for VTA is for the sound, I don't consider that to be a good reason to hurt your car.
Anyone telling you their not having an idling problem, or part throttle stalling HAS THEIR BOV MISADJUSTED.. what their not realizing is the incredible amount of compressor surge their getting instead while the bov isn't opening properly...
Most diverter valves can be partially open at idle due to high engine vacuum, the DV's spring and adjustment are should be adjusted in such a way that its closed for the most part when there's lower engine vacuum, and the spring assists in keeping the DV closed under boost (so theirs greater pressure differential holding it closed, then the force trying to open it under boost) You only need enough spring and adjustment pressure so it OPENS EASILY AT PART THROTTLE, and only enough spring pressure to retain the maximum boost your running..
IF you use a heavy spring, or shim the spring, or increase the adjustment so it stays completely closed at idle, the spring pressure may be too great and will hurt part throttle drivability, it will stumble off-idle, surge and buck when shifting at part throttle, flutter, and other problems.. but MOST IMPORTANTLY it will cause pretty severe compressor surge at those times (which is a majority of the driving most of you will be doing in daily driving) this will wreak havoc with the compressor internals and quickly damage the bearings and shaft..
IF YOU HAVE A STOCK MAF, YOU CANNOT ADJUST A BOV IN AN ADEQUATE MANNER TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING..
There are a few BOV's out there that will idle fine without much adjustment and will work pretty well, the HKS SSQV is a good example, but even the hks flutters and has slight surge at part throttle, and low load venting will still cause the idle to drop or potentially stall (A very rich condition)
Its obvious the people doing this are two types..
1) They like the sound and could care less about performance
2) they have a workaround that doesnt require doing MORE HARM THEN GOOD (ie, speed density, blowthrough maf, etc..)
I wish this topic would go away, any car with a drawthrough MAF (The Evo and other cars) just won't run correctly, and SHOULD NOT BE VENTED TO THE ATMOSPHERE at the expense of making adjustments to accomodate it, it just hurts the cars performance and longevity.
Ok.. Now that I'm done with my rant.. The good news is the HKS SSQV is going to be the one that doesnt require adjustment at all, and it will idle and won't surge much at part throttle, it will hold pretty much any amount of boost you can throw at it.. Unfortunately, you'll never be able to adequately work around the rich condition when it vents at any point, the EIDS will work somewhat, but it "Desensitizes" the MAF's response to changes in airflow, and therefore may hurt the car's throttle response.
The real answer is, if you have a stock MAF, don't VTA.. It just leads to headaches. If you don't want to listen to the countless people who understand how these devices work and what compromises you make to get them to work, then you can be left to your own devises.. but understand that the only reason for VTA is for the sound, I don't consider that to be a good reason to hurt your car.
#13
I dont care what other people say, venting is just not good with stock maf and other parts, but if you want to vent just get an HKS stabilizer its like $120 that will help to prevent Rpm drop while VTA....
#14
Originally Posted by MalibuJack
Besides, VTA Scares old ladies and children..
Here's my answer for the VTA crowd--sample the BOV sound, rig up a loudspeaker & trigger it off your clutch!
#15
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From: Wilmington NC/ Carolina Beach
Originally Posted by MalibuJack
Besides, VTA Scares old ladies and children..