Buschur race "chip" - a big success
Sep 7, 2005, 06:59 AM
#77
anyone got answers to my questions? how can I source one of those 'traditional' switches? Even if I do, will it's inputs match up w/ my thermistor's outputs?
haha, the AC thing will work, but the idea of this is to MAKE power... plus doesn't the ect have a more rich map for when the A/C is on? (thereby making it an even worse solution, given what I am trying to do)
haha, the AC thing will work, but the idea of this is to MAKE power... plus doesn't the ect have a more rich map for when the A/C is on? (thereby making it an even worse solution, given what I am trying to do)
Sep 7, 2005, 07:21 AM
#78
Originally Posted by honki24
a.)how can I consolodate the two manual switches into one switch?
b.)how can I source the switch to activate the fan? Can I just get it off any older car that still uses one? How would I ensure that my thermistor readouts will correlate w/ my switch input?
b.)how can I source the switch to activate the fan? Can I just get it off any older car that still uses one? How would I ensure that my thermistor readouts will correlate w/ my switch input?
b. One side of the side is connected to ground. The other side is pull-up to battery via relay\switch. All you need to do is connect a switch to battery to this side of the fan and you can manually turn the fan on\off.
Nada did some testing and it looks like 307 ohm in place of the sensor would be good.
Sep 14, 2005, 08:12 AM
#80
Originally Posted by GOKOU
a. Not sure if you can. Just use two switch. One to switch in the resistor for the coolanr sensor and one to manually turn the fan on.
b. One side of the side is connected to ground. The other side is pull-up to battery via relay\switch. All you need to do is connect a switch to battery to this side of the fan and you can manually turn the fan on\off.
Nada did some testing and it looks like 307 ohm in place of the sensor would be good.
b. One side of the side is connected to ground. The other side is pull-up to battery via relay\switch. All you need to do is connect a switch to battery to this side of the fan and you can manually turn the fan on\off.
Nada did some testing and it looks like 307 ohm in place of the sensor would be good.
Sep 14, 2005, 08:18 AM
#82
Why would Buschur use 210 ohms?? in your readings doesn't that correlate to like over 200 degrees? his is red,brown,brown,gold... thats 210 right?
you use his by unplugging the sensor plug, and inserting one end of the "chip" into one lead on the plug and the other end into the other side of the plug.. is that how you used your 307ohm resistor?
you use his by unplugging the sensor plug, and inserting one end of the "chip" into one lead on the plug and the other end into the other side of the plug.. is that how you used your 307ohm resistor?
Sep 14, 2005, 08:51 PM
#84
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
It really shouldn't bother me but it does. There are those of us that solve a problem and those of us that copy it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Sep 18, 2005, 05:44 PM
#90
Originally Posted by Creamo3
all that they asked is if I was flashed which I am going to be
Ah well, don't care now, its as easy as a flick of a switch for me now (plus the fan turns on still)