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New Forge RS BOV

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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 08:36 PM
  #166  
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From: Livermore, CA
What's the advantage of this BOV over my JDM MR piece?

The MR piece holds boost better than the stock piece, doesn't negatively effect gas mileage, but I don't get a "whooooosh" sound when I let off the gas.

With the Forge RS piece I'll hold boost better than stock, I'll get a "whooooosh" sound when I let off the gas, but it'll mess with the MAF sensor causing the car to run richer than normal thereby negatively effecting gas mileage.

Is there anyway around the richer AF ratio or is that the sacrifice we have to make for a blow off valve on a 4G63?
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 06:25 AM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by Steiner
What's the advantage of this BOV over my JDM MR piece?

The MR piece holds boost better than the stock piece, doesn't negatively effect gas mileage, but I don't get a "whooooosh" sound when I let off the gas.

With the Forge RS piece I'll hold boost better than stock, I'll get a "whooooosh" sound when I let off the gas, but it'll mess with the MAF sensor causing the car to run richer than normal thereby negatively effecting gas mileage.

Is there anyway around the richer AF ratio or is that the sacrifice we have to make for a blow off valve on a 4G63?
Run it as a DV in recirc and not as a BOV. It absolutely destroys the MR valve. I pulled my MR and am selling it.
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 06:38 AM
  #168  
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Is there anything special to taking the valve apart? Mine came with the 1g flange already installed and it seems to be on tight. I'm just curious if you need to do anything other than unscrew the flange and put the other intake port on to run on the stock intake?
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 06:46 AM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by juyanith
Is there anything special to taking the valve apart? Mine came with the 1g flange already installed and it seems to be on tight. I'm just curious if you need to do anything other than unscrew the flange and put the other intake port on to run on the stock intake?
Mine came with the 1g bov as well and you do not have to take anything apart unless you got the VTA/recirculation bov. I recommend you do a boost leak test after you install the valve to make sure that the flange to bov connection or the bov to pipe connection is not leaking. Like I said before I found that the flange to bov connection was leaking .

You will love this BOV
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 07:29 AM
  #170  
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From: UTAH
Originally Posted by hkfeet
My car is making whining noises, GOKOU?s did you hear any noises from the leaky flange?
You probably have the valve too tight. When testing mine before the write up, I tightened it too much and it started to make that sound
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 07:31 AM
  #171  
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From: UTAH
Originally Posted by GOKOU
What kind of boost level are you running. Mine held 21 psi fine with 2 1/2 turns
On race gas over 25 psi, but the 8 turns is what did the trick for me in daily driving and everything. It did work fine with 0-5 turns or so, I just liked it better a bit tighter. It held boost more consistantly and surging was leesed at part throttle let off for me. I don't know of you have the standard valve on the 1G flange, but Mike from Forge said there mayu be a difference because od the size of the openeings on the 1g as opposed to the normal setup.
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 11:53 AM
  #172  
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From: Livermore, CA
Originally Posted by Noize
Run it as a DV in recirc and not as a BOV. It absolutely destroys the MR valve. I pulled my MR and am selling it.
I'm confused. What makes it better than the MR piece. I'm not expecting to run more than 25psi after I get my EcuTek flash. Is it worth replacing for the Forge RS setup?
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 12:12 PM
  #173  
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From: Franklin, TN
Originally Posted by Steiner
I'm confused. What makes it better than the MR piece. I'm not expecting to run more than 25psi after I get my EcuTek flash. Is it worth replacing for the Forge RS setup?

My MR caused fluttering sometimes at partial throttle liftoff. At high rpm in high speed corners, the problem was even worse. The Forge doesn't do this at all.
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 01:09 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by GOKOU
Mine came with the 1g bov as well and you do not have to take anything apart unless you got the VTA/recirculation bov. I recommend you do a boost leak test after you install the valve to make sure that the flange to bov connection or the bov to pipe connection is not leaking. Like I said before I found that the flange to bov connection was leaking .

You will love this BOV
I'm sure I will and I realize I don't have to take it apart, I'm just curious. It looks like it just screws together. Did you just tighten it or did you put some sort of sealant to get rid of your leak?
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 01:19 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by juyanith
I'm sure I will and I realize I don't have to take it apart, I'm just curious. It looks like it just screws together. Did you just tighten it or did you put some sort of sealant to get rid of your leak?
I tighten as much as I could and used teflon tape but it was still leaking. I end up using grey gasket maker RTV (bit** waiting for it to dry up) and sealing around the connection. Kept doing this and boot leak testing until the leak was seal. It made a mess on the bov but I was more concern with the leak.
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 02:57 PM
  #176  
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From: Dripping Springs, TX
Originally Posted by Noize
My MR caused fluttering sometimes at partial throttle liftoff. At high rpm in high speed corners, the problem was even worse. The Forge doesn't do this at all.
I'm not having any problems with partial throttle lift-off, but I do get some fluttering occasionally at higher RPM's and partial throttle, especially above 15 psi. I have my valve set at 1/2 turn from first engagement to the left (basically a half-turn from the softest setting). This seems to be the best setting for me for around-town driving. Any higher than that and I did get fluttering at throttle lift-off. I'm running 20 psi with a MBC (I'll up it to 21 today), recirculated, with no problems holding full boost at WOT to redline.

I'm wondering if I'll need to tighten it up when I start running water injection and higher boost (23-25 psi), or if the current setting will hold the pressure. I also wonder if I'll need to use a different setting for track conditions (high-RPM part-throttle conditions in corners where the fluttering described above may be a problem).

GOKOU--I got the valve with the 1G flange and I've had no leak issues whatsoever, either through the valve or from the valve-to-UICP flange interface. Perfect fit. Did you re-use the gasket that came with your UICP?
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 03:05 PM
  #177  
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From: Orlando FL
Unfortnunately, we do not have access to gaskets to be able to include them with the 1G flange mounted valves. This is something I will look into, however.

Until then, I will also try to find out why GOKOU's valve is continuously leaking. It really shouldn't be.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Concering taking the 1G flange off, it can easily be done by unscrewing the base that threads into the valve body. The flange is connected to the base with a special retaining ring that we have a custom tool for removing.

If they ever seem too tight to unscrew, tap the valve firmly (not too hard) onto a wooden table or another hard, but forgiving surface. (don't dent your mom's/wife's/girlfriend's table, I won't be held responsible if you do ) This should loosen the threads enough to unscrew things more easily.
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Concerning our valve compared to the MR piece, ours will hold significantly more boost, if required.

If you do not feel that you need such a range of adjustment, no worries.
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 03:09 PM
  #178  
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I know one who leaked at 22 psi with MR BOV. Shiv noticed that while he was tunning his car. Forge won't leak untill 34 psi
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 03:24 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by Grog
I'm not having any problems with partial throttle lift-off, but I do get some fluttering occasionally at higher RPM's and partial throttle, especially above 15 psi. I have my valve set at 1/2 turn from first engagement to the left (basically a half-turn from the softest setting). This seems to be the best setting for me for around-town driving. Any higher than that and I did get fluttering at throttle lift-off. I'm running 20 psi with a MBC (I'll up it to 21 today), recirculated, with no problems holding full boost at WOT to redline.

I'm wondering if I'll need to tighten it up when I start running water injection and higher boost (23-25 psi), or if the current setting will hold the pressure. I also wonder if I'll need to use a different setting for track conditions (high-RPM part-throttle conditions in corners where the fluttering described above may be a problem).

GOKOU--I got the valve with the 1G flange and I've had no leak issues whatsoever, either through the valve or from the valve-to-UICP flange interface. Perfect fit. Did you re-use the gasket that came with your UICP?
On the way home from work I floor the car in 4th gear and notice fluttering at higher rpm under partial throttle. I'm going to try tighten the valve to see what happens. I'm also wondering if I will need to adjust the valve tigher when running higher boost (25 psi).

It was leaking between the 1g flange adaptor and the bov and there is no gasket here. I only saw an o-ring. I use teflon tape and it was still leaking. Did you do a boost leak test because you won't know it unless you boost leak test and spray soapy water on it. I'm not saying that every bov leak. I know mine did.
Old Aug 30, 2005 | 03:40 PM
  #180  
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From: Dripping Springs, TX
Originally Posted by GOKOU
It was leaking between the 1g flange adaptor and the bov and there is no gasket here. I only saw an o-ring. I use teflon tape and it was still leaking. Did you do a boost leak test because you won't know it unless you boost leak test and spray soapy water on it. I'm not saying that every bov leak. I know mine did.
Haven't tested mine for leaks between the flange and the valve body past the o-ring. Sounds like a good weekend project.

I started with mine set at about 2 full turns from the left and it fluttered a bit at high RPM part-throttle at about 10 psi. When I tightened the valve one or two turns to the right, the flutter got worse, and even fluttered a bit at only 3-5 psi. That's when I backed it off to where I am now. Does well except at the extreme case of boost above 15 psi and high RPM's (above about 5500). I'll do some more testing on the way home to get more accurate numbers.


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