Man some of these settings I'm reading seem awful low. I run around 22psi and I have it around 25 clicks I think. Didn't Mike say it is basically good for holding 7psi all the way backed off and another .5psi or so per click? Am I wrong?
All I know is mine holds boost and doesn't flutter. At least it hasn't fluttered while I've been street tuning it the past week or so.

 

I have approxiamtely 28 clicks

 

Thanks for the info. I'm curious to try it out in the stock configuration but wanted to check before prying on it or banging it into things.

 

Haven't seen any specific tuning advice like that from Forge...doesn't mean it hasn't been provided, just haven't read it. I know that I've made several WOT runs at 20 psi, and two yesterday at 21 psi and it held the boost to redline just fine. I'm going to run 21 psi and 23 clicks (by your numbers above) on the way to work and see how it does.

 

It is almost impossible for any two valves to require the same amount of adjustment for a given level of boost.

Because each spring is cold-wound by hand, there will be some slight variation in the tension between two springs. The range is somewhere around 7-34 PSI, however.

The amount of preload required fo each valve will also be based on the volume of pressure on the intercooler piping side of the valve and the volume of pressure through the vacuum line to the top of the valve helping the spring hold the valve shut. This volume will vary under every circumstance and slightly alter how each valve will respond.

Based on the pressure range allowable within each spring, and the number of turns allowable within the adjustment knob of the valve, roughly 1 click of the valve should be good for about 0.5 PSI. This would typically mean that 2 clicks are good for 1 PSI and 1 full revolution of the knob s good for about 2 PSI, HOWEVER, given that the holding capacity is also based on the volume of pressure helping the spring to hold the valve closed, this relationship is not completely linear and will not always hold true.

Everyone shouldn't necessarily be expecting to use the same level of adjustment for the same levels of boost.

The biggest concern is for every valve to hold boost all the way until redline without any leaking or compressor surging.

 

I didn't even adjust mine. I just threw it in the car how it shipped and it holds 22psi on pump like a champ without surging.

 

Mike you have PMs...

 

I just installed my new RS valve tonight and I'm impressed. I tried to initially set up the valve by slowly revving the engine but I started to **** off the neighbors. I ended up turning in the valve 4 full turns after I fully backed off all the tension of the spring and went for a drive. The part throttle response is fantastic and I was peaking at 23 PSI and tapering to 19 PSI. My Xede is set up to taper that way. The car drove like stock, no surging or stalling what so ever. I'll play around with it some more in the next couple of days to see how the car reacts to some more spring tension.

 

Glad to hear you like the valve, it is one of the best I think.

 

is flutteing normal?

 

Are you VTA or recirc?

 

I'm getting fluttering with this valve now. Strange part was I did not experience this before. At partial throttle/boost the bov will flutter and unless I go WOT or let off, the car will buck as if I hit fuel cut. I want to try loosening the tension but afraid it might not hold 25psi. Time to go experimenting.

ANy suggestions???

 

I've got mine on the Injen piping. Still working on getting it set up perfectly, but it definately holds boost better than the others I've tried out.

 

this happened when I changed to VTA set up. May be it is better to use Recirc valve? It sounds like rattle snake at low boost. Although, my car runs the same as recirc set up. No bucking

 

I don't have the VTA setup so mine is recirculating. It flutters at partial boost. Loosening it up and I hear a whistle sound rather then a whoosh. Tighten it up and it seems to hold more boost and the whistle goes away. EIther way it flutters