I just finished the testing with the VTA type valve. It still had the rattle snake sound. oh well, I put back the recirc type valve and it works fine. So, I am sticking with the recirc type valve for either setup. also, It did not leak any air through bov when the car was in idle.
So, go with the recirc type of valve for High boost setup!

 

Can you describe lube?? So you put some lube inside the bov? It use to be nice but now the bov is fluttering too much.

 

you need to take it apart the bov. unscrew the bottom of your Bov and take out the piston( the valve) and lube around the piston and cylinder. It is pretty easy.

 

Thanks. I might have a problem since there was a leak between the flange and bov so I had to rtv the entire piece. Hate to remove the rtv and then appy new ones but looks like I might not have a choice.

 

If you want to i would send it back to Forge and let us take a look at it and do what need's to be done to make it work, if need be fix that one or send you another one. it's backed for life.

 

I love this BOV

 

When you say us does this mean you're with Mike (forge)? I don't mind sending it back for you guys to take a look at it. The only thing is that I had to rtv the 1g flange and bov connection. I tried using teflon tape and it was still leaking when boost leak testing so end up using rtv silicone to seal around it. I can try and remove the RTV but no gurantee all of it will come off. It could be that the bov needs to be grease. When I first put the bov on I love this bov. Now I'm getting fluttering during partial throttle and the other day when I tried to go to WOT it flutter

Thanks.

 

where did you rtv it?
Anyway, you can just unscrew the whole BOV and leave the flange on the pipe.

 

Yep know what you're saying but I rtv the bov to flange connection where you unscrew the flange off. It was leaking there.

 

hmm.. I don't have a flange so I don't know.
Does the flange just get screwed into the bov body? If it does, that area is okay to leak there. Because, it is after the valve opening area. can you take a picture of your flange and bov? I think that RTV you put int could cause a problem(RTV prolly got sticky with the edge of the valve).

 

Yea, i work at Forge too. so if you want take it off and send it back and we will fix it if need be.

 

The 1g flange is the similar to the stock flange that comes with the bov. You just unscrew it and twist it into the body of the bov. I don't think the leak is okay. Leaking there is the same as leaking at the flange to upper pipe which is still a vaccuum leak.

Thanks.

 

More opinions are here
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=174547

 

Those are some good opinions there!

Btw, just to reiterate, another reason this valve is great is because it can be adapted to match most of the common setups, whether you have the stock intake and stock IC pipes, or even if you have the Buschur staged packages with their UICP and 1g flange like Scott here.

 

I've had the RS Valve for several months now and it's been working flawlessly.